1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

how can i fully build my d15

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by ernestoexpresso, Mar 1, 2010.

  1. ernestoexpresso

    ernestoexpresso New Member

    Messages:
    97
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2010
    im doing a mini me swap om it so i wanna know what are the internals needed to fully build the motor can you list the stuff for me
    and list the way to do it if i wanna turbo it too
    please and thank you
     
  2. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

    Messages:
    6,483
    Likes Received:
    390
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2006
    this info is all over the place. try searching first next time.

    a full build will consist of:
    forged pistons
    forged rods
    new rod bolts
    new main studs
    new main/rod bearings
    re-sleeve with darton, aebs, benson, etc.
    thatll get you there on the bottom end. headwork is a whole different ball game.
     
  3. d-mon

    d-mon what r u compensating 4?

    Messages:
    125
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2008
    ^^^that's all true
    but forged parts are more common and less expensive for d16 than d15.
    (recommend you use a d16 block instead of d15)
     
  4. zach_teg_king

    zach_teg_king jdmzach "country boy"

    Messages:
    77
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Location:
    south central, KY (amishland lol)
    if you use your d15 block, definately do new:
    forged pistons
    forged rods
    new rod bolts
    new main studs
    new main/rod bearings
    get low compression pistons if you plan to boost, and it help to lower the compression by using a d16z6 headgasket. as for the head, get it machines to about .30 and port/polish. ive done a d15b7/d16y8 mini me before and used a dsm 14b turbo, jdm sport front mount intercooler, greddy S blowoff valve, ram horh turbo manifold, blox intake manifold, tuned on chrome with a apexi safc2 to run 18psi. used eagle ibeam rods and low compression pistons, didnt sleeve the block, jst updated the internals and bolted on the parts. id reccomend going the whole nine yards though if you can afford it.
     
  5. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

    Messages:
    6,483
    Likes Received:
    390
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2006
    i'm not 100% sure why everyone thinks that if you're going to turbocharge a car, you need lower static compression to do so. sure it'd help with cylinder pressures at higher boost levels, but it also is going to rob you of some power.

    IMO the ideal static CR for a turbocharged setup that is just going to be street driven is right around 9.0:1 - 9.5:1. i have seen quite a few cars turbo'd at static ratios from 10.0-10.6:1 and no problems whatsoever.

    the only situation that i see fit for lowering the compression is on an engine that has very high stock static compression and it is your first turbo build. in that case it might be wise to lower the compression to allow for some more room for error while tuning.

    otherwise, leave the compression stock, and turbo it. you wont have any issues with what you're doing.

    edit:
    and, being a d15 (already a turd) lowering the compression further is just going to make your d15 seem even slower out of boost. will also slow spool time on the turbo slightly.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2010
  6. ballerxforxsho

    ballerxforxsho New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2010
    Your dumb in the first place for trying to build a D15.
     
Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page