Discussion in 'Other Vehicle Discussions' started by TurboMirage, May 28, 2006.
gotta replace the clutch master cylinder. how do i do it?
actually it was way different. i had Miles bleed them the way the brakes are bled and it didnt work. he showed me a different way - since the 240sx has a "pedal damper system".
its fucking great now. interesting to note, there is NO SLIP in the clutch anymore! maybe the cylinder wasn't disengaging completely when the fluid heated up.
also, the fluid that came out was black and like water. it had no consistency as brake fluid did. i put dot4 hi-temp in that SOB.
Can I ask how you bled the clutch?
Did you use a pressure bleeding system like motive racing makes?
open the valve, pump fast/hard 3 times. when the pedal is on the floor, close the bleeder.
we did this ~10 times. basically, until the fluid was the correct color and the air bubbles were gone. you could see them coming out of the bleeder.
....and that's different from brakes how?
the bleeder is open while you pump.
was it a speed bleeder?
...otherwise you'd be sucking air in when the valve was open.
its the weirdest hydro system ive ever seen.
If you used speed bleeders, its no wonder you left the valve open - thats the point of speed bleeders.
Other then the countless honda's I've done it on and then an old ford f150, both had the "speed" bleeder from the factory. All you do is have one person keep filling with brake fluid and another keep pumping. however since there is no pressure, you have to pull it up yourself. I take a shoe off and curl my toes around the pedal to bring it up. Once the fluid starts to change color, just close the valve and give it a pump. Should return to full pressure.
Nissans typically have 1 or 2 valves.... its pretty freaking easy.
Pump, turn, turn, release.
Repeat until the color changes.
for the record once again, i've never bled ANY hydro clutch system. evAr.
im a cable clutch guy
I know on the Z it's easier.
best way to do it...
suck out all the old fluid with a turkey baster, remove the resevoir, clean the res with brake fluid, makes it nice and clear again. Then drain the fluid from the mc line and take off and trash the old slave cylinder. install a stainless steet weaved flexible line, and a new slave cylinder, and then fill the res....
let the fluid that you put in the res flush out any old fluid, and then let it keep draining till most of the bubles bleed out on their own. then close the bleeder, and squeeze the plunger on the new slave cylinder a few times to get the bubbles to move back up to the master cylinder...keep squeezing a until no bubbles come out....done.
making a bubble come out on the bottom of a fluid system is stupid...and it never works....better results are had when the bubbles move to the natural direction....
for brakes...I get a long clear plastic tube, and I will suck it out via mouth, but will blow it back thru the system when I can...then get all teh bubles to the MC, and then open the bleeders there, and get a short plastic line, and pump it back to the res. done.
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