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How To: Change a Head Gasket. -LOTS of pics-

Discussion in 'General Tech Articles' started by Andrew, Aug 3, 2006.

  1. Remedy

    Remedy New Member

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    There are 2 kinds of torque spec generally published in the shop manual, dry fastener and oiled. When the manual calls for oiled they mention 30wt motor oil. Antisieze reduces friction which alters the amount of twisting force you can apply to a fastener. You will over torque your bolts, they may snap or they may not. Your HG may be crushed too much, or not. I had a rep from a fastener mfr come to speak to a class and he stood right there and told us to reduce torque by approx 20% when using antisieze. While I agree with your statement that in certain cases antisieze is better, I would limit it to exhuast bolts and spark plugs myself.

    Nice pictures by the way... it looks so easy but I remeber it being something of a PITA. I took my head in for testing/surfacing because I don't have a crystal ball to tell me if I will have to buy a new head and do the job again next week. I have done three heads now and so far I had one cracked... it was an iron head though.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2006
  2. gablagloire

    gablagloire Junior Member

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    How about for a b16a3 engine? Is it much different than your writeup? If i were to follow this writeup, will i be sucessfull?
     
  3. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    it will not be the same(as in exactly like I did it), but it's the same process.
    Disconnect fuild lines and harness
    unbolt header
    *in the case of it being DOHC* you'll have to pull the cams
    etc.

    but as far as the priciple, yes, it's the same. it's just a little different setup on the dual cams.
     
  4. welfare

    welfare Ancient Member

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    You actually missed one very important step. . .
    once you drain the coolant there is still some in the block so when you take the head off it goes everyehere (like in your pics)
    Not only does it go in the clyinders, but it also goes in the holes in the bolck where the headbolts go.
    From experience if you don't/can't drain the engine block you should clean out the headbolt holes because when you put everything back together the headbolts will push coolant back out of the holes, it will end up between the head and the bolck, where the headgasket is, and when you go to torque it down it won't be torqued correctly, there will be a gap where the coolant is (liquid cannot be compressed). This will cause the headgasket to fail again prematurely.
    I had this happen to me on the very first headgasket I changed, like 8 years ago. Ever since I make sure!


    Also, like remedy said coating the bolts in oil or some sort of lubricant is reccomended due to correct torque measurements. It takes more torque to tighten a bolt that has no lube as opposed to a bolt that does.
    That is why ARP studs come either pre-lubed or with thread lubricant, so that a proper torque can be achieved. Ask any engine builder.

    Excellent writeup nonetheless
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2007
  5. welfare

    welfare Ancient Member

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    Also, it is recommended that you replace the headbolts after you remove them, but I have also seen the re-used with no problems.
     
  6. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your imput bro!

    In that case I guess I got off easy, because I didn't have any problems with coolant in the bolt holes, and very little on the pistons(which were all cleaned out btw, I just didn't show the reinstall.

    I did soak them in oil. didn't you see?

    And lastly,
    Thanks for re-enforcing that point!

    Again, I appreciate your imput. every little tid-bit helps
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    no posts in a while, time to archive this in the general tech articles :)
    Thanks Andrew :)
     

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