Speedracer228
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How to install a new oil pan gasket on a B16:
Parts Needed:
New Oil Pan gasket
Gasket sealer
New Drain Plug (not necessary but cheap insurance to prevent a leak)
New oil and filter
Step one- Jack car up and support with jack stands, and then proceed to drain the oil and take out old oil filter etc…
Step two – Locate the down pipe bolts (3 14mm bolts right under the O2 sensor) and the bolts of the bottom of the down pipe connecting it to the cat and spray lots of WD-40 on them to try and eat some of the rust. Also there is a bracket holding the down pipe to the block that is held on with 2 12mm bolts from the bracket to the block that needs to be removed.
(down-pipe)
Step three- Once you have the down pipe out of the way you’ll notice that two of the oil pan bolts are covered up by the Flywheel cover pictured below.
This is held on with 2 12mm bolts. However there are also 2 transmission support brackets holding on the flywheel cover as well. These are located as shown.
The one bracket is held on by one 17mm bolt and 2 12mm bolts, the other is just held on with one 17mm and one 12mm bolt. To take these brackets off take a spare jack and a board to support the transmission while the brackets are removed.
Step Four- Now you should have access to all of the oil pan bolts. They are all 10mm bolts/nuts. Once these bolts are removed you may need to use a soft faced mallet to break the seal on the oil pan (do not use a screwdriver to pry it apart). Once the pan is out inspect the oil pan and block to make sure there is no gasket sealant left. If there is use a razor blade/scraper to get all the excess material off.
Step Five- Once the oil pan and block are cleaned and dried apply the gasket sealer on the oil pan as showed (about a 1/8in ring around the pan, you can also go around each individual hole) and apply the new gasket to the pan. From there it is nice to have someone help you put it back on and put the bolts/nuts back on. Once the new pan is on only hand tighten all the bolts so that the pan is secured. (I highly recommend you follow the next step for tightening so they you do not over/under tighten the bolts and cause a bad seal.) Start in the middle and tighten the bolts to 108in-lbs (9ft –lbs) in a spiral pattern alternating sides until all the bolts are to spec.
Step Six- Once the pan is back on with the new gasket the rest of the installation is opposite of the removal. As for the length you need to let the gasket sealer cure is up to the brand you used. I let mine sit overnight before I added the new oil just to be on the safe side.
If you see anything i left out let me know and ill add it in!
Parts Needed:
New Oil Pan gasket
Gasket sealer
New Drain Plug (not necessary but cheap insurance to prevent a leak)
New oil and filter
Step one- Jack car up and support with jack stands, and then proceed to drain the oil and take out old oil filter etc…
Step two – Locate the down pipe bolts (3 14mm bolts right under the O2 sensor) and the bolts of the bottom of the down pipe connecting it to the cat and spray lots of WD-40 on them to try and eat some of the rust. Also there is a bracket holding the down pipe to the block that is held on with 2 12mm bolts from the bracket to the block that needs to be removed.
(down-pipe)
Step three- Once you have the down pipe out of the way you’ll notice that two of the oil pan bolts are covered up by the Flywheel cover pictured below.
This is held on with 2 12mm bolts. However there are also 2 transmission support brackets holding on the flywheel cover as well. These are located as shown.
The one bracket is held on by one 17mm bolt and 2 12mm bolts, the other is just held on with one 17mm and one 12mm bolt. To take these brackets off take a spare jack and a board to support the transmission while the brackets are removed.
Step Four- Now you should have access to all of the oil pan bolts. They are all 10mm bolts/nuts. Once these bolts are removed you may need to use a soft faced mallet to break the seal on the oil pan (do not use a screwdriver to pry it apart). Once the pan is out inspect the oil pan and block to make sure there is no gasket sealant left. If there is use a razor blade/scraper to get all the excess material off.
Step Five- Once the oil pan and block are cleaned and dried apply the gasket sealer on the oil pan as showed (about a 1/8in ring around the pan, you can also go around each individual hole) and apply the new gasket to the pan. From there it is nice to have someone help you put it back on and put the bolts/nuts back on. Once the new pan is on only hand tighten all the bolts so that the pan is secured. (I highly recommend you follow the next step for tightening so they you do not over/under tighten the bolts and cause a bad seal.) Start in the middle and tighten the bolts to 108in-lbs (9ft –lbs) in a spiral pattern alternating sides until all the bolts are to spec.
Step Six- Once the pan is back on with the new gasket the rest of the installation is opposite of the removal. As for the length you need to let the gasket sealer cure is up to the brand you used. I let mine sit overnight before I added the new oil just to be on the safe side.
If you see anything i left out let me know and ill add it in!
I like to use a very small 1/4 inch ratchet to avoid overtightening.