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How to replace your LCA bushings.

Discussion in 'Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes' started by xj0hnx, Mar 8, 2004.

  1. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    So today I was driving around and decided to have a look underneath and identify the noise that has been driving me nuts, not to mention something in my suspension is out of whack, and I need to find it. So put it up and decdied the front LCA bushings need replaced, this might help some, so off to the store. Bought both bushings for 14 bucks and headed to the shop. Bad bushings can cause darty steering, bad alignment, noise, and just shitty performance over all, so check yours and replace, they make a world of difference.

    First step is take off you rim(s)...

    [​IMG]

    Yes, I know, red calipers, what a fag, but I am waiting till my spacers come in to paint them back to silver, so suck it..

    This is what you're looking at now (don't comment on the tire still being on, this was taken when I first got there)...

    [​IMG]

    Nice salt on everything huh? Damn winter needs to end already, So, you have the ball joint, damper fork, and the two LCA specific bolts to remove and end up with this...

    [​IMG]

    Now, here's the part that really can suck, or not be a problem, depending on the equipment you have availible. We have a hydraulic press in our shop, so it is a breeze, if not you can do it with a saw, hammer, and chisel, and a table vise, but it takes some work...pressing the old one out....

    [​IMG]

    Once you have pressed the old ones out, you can use an emery paper to clean out the inside, but it isn't real nescessary. Then just reverse the process, and press the new ones into place. I used a socket the same size as the metal surround on the bushing...

    [​IMG]

    Now put it all back together...

    [​IMG]

    And replace wheels...

    [​IMG]

    I torque them to the correct setting of 110Nm or 80 lb-ft. On a side note, I use the Kyokugens and have heard many people saying they strip, but I have removed mine MANY times and they are fine, so the trick kids is, don't fucking over tighten them.
     
  2. dohch22a4

    dohch22a4 Senior Member

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    Did this get rid of the noise? :)
     
  3. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Yip, but I also removed my traction bars, as with the ITR brakes the bottom caliper mounting bolt was hitting the damper fork mounting bracket in hard corners and rough roads :(
     
  4. dohch22a4

    dohch22a4 Senior Member

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    Shitty. So... are you using you gay stock VX brakes again? Or did you just leave the ITR ones on and say fuck it?
     
  5. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Hell no, I'd rather not run a traction bar than run 9" VX brakes again :)
     
  6. dohch22a4

    dohch22a4 Senior Member

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    Hehe, 9" brakes own me. :lol:

    Hawk pads and new blanks do help a little, though.
     
  7. 97hatch

    97hatch ?

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    a note on the kyokugens the tool is the problem with the lugs. the tool is made out of cheap metal and also very thin so if you use an impact it tsreaches out the tool then strips the lug so the key is dont use an impact and you will be fine. i tq mine to 90ft lbs and i change my tires at the track every week in the summer and have never had a problem
     
  8. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    good write up :)

    but yeah, its pretty impossible to do without a press.
     
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