How To Reset The Ecu
- Thread starter shming123
- Start date
- Replies 3
- Views 2K
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
saturn_boy96
88 C1V1C 53D4N DR1V3R
i would recomend warming the engine first.
then you pull the fuse for the ecu(under the hood)
leave it out for like ten minutes.
then satrt your car adn let it reprogram itself. (10 min.)
then shut if off. start it up with a fresh ecu.
then you pull the fuse for the ecu(under the hood)
leave it out for like ten minutes.
then satrt your car adn let it reprogram itself. (10 min.)
then shut if off. start it up with a fresh ecu.
It doesn't matter if your car's warmed up or not, as long as it has enough juice to crank, it has enough juice to keep any of those annoying ECU troublecodes in memory.
Either way is fine, Pulling the terminal -OR- The main fuse'll do. Pulling the terminal's pretty self explanitory: Take a 10mm wrench, loosen the terminal of choice (Doesn't matter which - your ECU needs BOTH to work), and let it sit for a bit. You can pull it for 10-or-so minutes, no biggie. Make sure you let it sit for a while, popping it back on is just going to be a waste of time for you (B/c you'll hafta do it again).
As far as the mainfuse, different people'll tell you different ones. The easiest one is PROBABLY the most obvious one: the one that is parallell to the wiring. Pop open the Fusebox (under the hood) use a Phillips-headded screwdriver and remove the two screws that hold it in. DON'T LOSE THE SCREWS OR THE FUSE!!! Some places'll charge you as much as 10 bux for a new one (So, Now do you not only have to buy a new fuse, BUT you get to look like a complete muppet asking for a ride to the parts store!
) Once again, let it sit for a bit, put it back in, and badda-Bing! You're in there! (NOTE: If you have any ICE [In Car Entertainment] that's programmable, you're gonna have to reprogram it, since all power's getting killed to the car.)
Also: If you've got check-codes, make a note of the milage when you reset the ECU, then again when the annoying 'Check engine' light comes on. If it's within 100-150 miles (depending on the milage, wear, age of the car) it could be more than just a stupid 'Bank2' code (for an out O2 sensor)
When you restart your car, don't touch the gas if you can help it. The ECU'll reset to a better A/F mixture without doing that.
Good Advice: Invest in either a Hondata system ( Http:www.Hondata.com ), or an OBD# to PC interface
There ya have it!
Interesting point: If you have a Pep-Boys close by, and the fundage to blast, get a code scanner/ Diagnostic box. An OBD2 will run you about 2 bills, other places may be cheaper. I don't know about an OBD1 Diag.
Either way is fine, Pulling the terminal -OR- The main fuse'll do. Pulling the terminal's pretty self explanitory: Take a 10mm wrench, loosen the terminal of choice (Doesn't matter which - your ECU needs BOTH to work), and let it sit for a bit. You can pull it for 10-or-so minutes, no biggie. Make sure you let it sit for a while, popping it back on is just going to be a waste of time for you (B/c you'll hafta do it again).
As far as the mainfuse, different people'll tell you different ones. The easiest one is PROBABLY the most obvious one: the one that is parallell to the wiring. Pop open the Fusebox (under the hood) use a Phillips-headded screwdriver and remove the two screws that hold it in. DON'T LOSE THE SCREWS OR THE FUSE!!! Some places'll charge you as much as 10 bux for a new one (So, Now do you not only have to buy a new fuse, BUT you get to look like a complete muppet asking for a ride to the parts store!
) Once again, let it sit for a bit, put it back in, and badda-Bing! You're in there! (NOTE: If you have any ICE [In Car Entertainment] that's programmable, you're gonna have to reprogram it, since all power's getting killed to the car.) Also: If you've got check-codes, make a note of the milage when you reset the ECU, then again when the annoying 'Check engine' light comes on. If it's within 100-150 miles (depending on the milage, wear, age of the car) it could be more than just a stupid 'Bank2' code (for an out O2 sensor)
When you restart your car, don't touch the gas if you can help it. The ECU'll reset to a better A/F mixture without doing that.
Good Advice: Invest in either a Hondata system ( Http:www.Hondata.com ), or an OBD# to PC interface
There ya have it!
Interesting point: If you have a Pep-Boys close by, and the fundage to blast, get a code scanner/ Diagnostic box. An OBD2 will run you about 2 bills, other places may be cheaper. I don't know about an OBD1 Diag.
Similar threads
