How to Swap A K20z1 into 95 civic Coupe ex

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95EJvtec

New Member
Okay, i wanna swap a k20z1 engine/trans into my 1995 civic. I want to know how to do this? I know its gonna take a good chunk of my time. I know its goining to cost a fortune and i know how difficuilt it is. So i just want to know how to swap it into my civic.

Currently, i got a d16z6 in my car with 356,000 miles. The engine did its job but now i want something more powerful. I don't want to hear about doing a B-series swap. I want to do a K20 swap so how would i do it :cool:
 
Google the swap (lots of write ups on this) and get ready to spend around $1200-$2000+ after you buy the long block/transmission.
 
After swapping both a B-series and a K-series, I can tell you that its much more time and money for the K, duh. That being said, If you take your time and do your homework its really not as hard as I thought it would be. There are plenty of resources for you, and K20a.org has parts lists for your swap.

I used the Hasport kit and everything bolted in perfectly, but you do have to drill/grind and hammer the passenger side mount off. I also drilled out the rad supports to move it to the driver side which required a little welding, but there are kits avaliable now so you don't have to do this (although it gives you more clearance). I used the K20Z3, so it cost me alittle extra to get rid of the drive-by-wire (but I got the LSD tranny), but in your case K20Z1 should be easier and it has better cams then the A2 or Z3.

The single most expensive item (other then the motor/tranny itself) would be Hondata Kpro. There are plenty of sites that offer K-swap parts, Karcepts, Hybrid Racing, K-tuned, K20tuned, etc.

Do your research, save your money and look for deals.

Good luck
 
Hey Dark93Dx, do i really have to weld or can i find an alternative
 
The welding was only in order to move the lower Rad supports to the drivers side, since K-series engines sit opposite (passenger side) from other Honda I4 engines. Moving the Rad to the driverside gave more clearance from the intake manifold ( My intake Mani is an RBC, which different from the one on the K20A2, K20A or K20Z1)

I believe K-tuned has a kit (basically a slim Rad/Fan with custom hoses.) avaliable now that allows you to keep the Rad in the stock location, thus no welding.

So no, you don't have to weld.

You still need to remove the passenger side engine mount though, but thats easy. Drill out the spot welds and hammer it off. There is an instructional DVD for a K-swap as well. there are bolt in shifter kits avaliable now as well, but i went with the RSX-S shifter and Karcepts bracket, which requires you to cut out a larger hole where the old shifter was.

like I said it's definitely more work then a B-series and more money then a H-series, but stock for stock a K-series will own both.
 
I have always wondered about the hood clearance in an 92-95 Civic (yes I know it fits) My question is in the amount of hood clearance. If there is more to go....I wold love to see some company make a mount kit that puts the motor higher and gets that oil pan off the ground a little more (for street driving with a car that looks right...aka slammed lol)
 
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