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I did something SOOO stupid today

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by wikedeye, Oct 18, 2010.

  1. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Today I was working on my car. It needed a valve adjustment and a look over after getting it running again this weekend. So the stupid thing I did is I left the crank holder and breaker bar, that I was using to turn the crank, in and cranked the car. I cant believe I did that. The crank now has a crack in it.
    [​IMG]

    Now it is pretty obvious that I will have to replace the crank pulley. Can this be done with the engine in the car? Do I need to pull the engine out and look inside for anything? Is this extremely bad? Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010
  2. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    That's just the crank pulley- there's no way to tell if the crankshaft itself is broken unless you pull it out of the engine. It's possible to replace the crankshaft while the engine is in the car, but it's easier to just pull the engine out. As far as replacing the pulley, you can do that with the engine in the car without TOO much difficulty.
     
  3. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Crank pulley is what I meant. Do I need to pull the engine out and check the crank? If I get the pulley off and everything looks ok besides the crack, is it safe to assume that everything else is ok? Or would the best course of action be pull the engine and take the bottom end apart and inspect everything? What are some of the things that this could have messed up ie:pistons, rods, bearings?
     
  4. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    To be totally safe I would pull the bottom end and check everything, but I think you're probably ok if the crack didn't go past the pulley and through the crank. I doubt you have anything to worry about beyond the pulley.
     
  5. 8secHonda

    8secHonda New Member

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    dont feel bad bro, i have done the same thing but didnt break anything but my socket lol.... id prolly change the pully and see how it does bro. i doubt u broke the crank...
     
  6. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I feel pretty dumb, but as long as I did not ruin anything else then its not so bad. I think I might go with an aftermarket underdrive pulley since I am changing it anyway.
     
  7. 8secHonda

    8secHonda New Member

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    def a good mod bro i would do the same..
     
  8. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    i would go OEM if i were you. most aftermarket units lack a balancer and can cause premature wear on the bearings.
     
  9. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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  10. Korax

    Korax New Member

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    :concur:

    If anything just get one of those OEM Type R ones that is alt only.

    Edit: guess i was a few seconds too late.
     
  11. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    both are decent options, but expensive for the results yielded. like i said, if i were you, id just find a replacement.

    it is possible that the engine is out of time, youll want to make sure you check that before trying to fire it again. if that much stress was placed on the pulley, id think the engine just tried to turn over and couldnt though.
     
  12. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Inline four makes one that is a modified original (alt only, but retains the damper). I have been reading and the n1 seems like it might cause problems in the future. The exact replacement costs $114 and the modified is $150. I am not using ps or ac, so I think shaving the weight is worth $35 to me.

    Do any of you know any info about the n1 causing to much vibration? I have been reading that it does not have a damper and can vibrate the oil pump to the point of failure.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010
  13. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    There's someone one H-T that'll shave off the other pulleys(retains damper and alt pulley) for $50 IIRC but you have to provide them with the pulley.

    There's been a couple of guys with N1/ebay pulleys with issues and yes, it's related to torsional vibration(in some cases the oil pump shattered)...though I don't think it's as much of a problem on lower torque B16s(FYI: early D15s, if not all or most, didn't come with a damper while the D16s did).
     
  14. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    The pulley I have has to be replaced so after buying a new or used one and spending $50 plus shipping it would be just as much as buying one already modified. The n1 is only about $25 dollars cheaper then the inline four one so I guess that sounds like the best bet. Lighter than original and safer than n1. I need to start taking things apart tomorrow and try to see if there is any more damage.
     
  15. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    The inline four pulley is out of stock so I would have to send them a core. OEM original it is. Will it matter if I buy it for the 99si or the del sol? My engine is the jdm version. I just want to make sure there is no difference from the various generations.
     
  16. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    just go oem. it's not worth the 'hp' it frees up. all normal b-series crank pulleys are the same IRRC. the check part numbers at majestic honda online
     
  17. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I found one locally that I am going to pick up today. The guy is selling it for $30. If it looks good then I will save myself a bit of money. Hopefully that is the only thing that needs replacing.
     
  18. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Got a new pulley and started to replace it yesterday. I took the timing belt off and reset the crank to tdc (it was off by a sprocket or two). Put the belt back on and tensioned it and now the belt seems like it stretched or maybe the tensioner is bent or something. Here is a pic of how much slack there is in the belt now.

    [​IMG]

    I have an extra belt that I am going to try. Is it possible to stretch the belt like that? Could it be the tensioner?
     
  19. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    rotate the crank to the left before tightening the tensioner. It'll pull all the slack to the tensioner side and let it do it's job.
     
  20. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I did that. I rotated it three sprockets counter clockwise with the tensioner loosened like it says in the helms. I actually did it three times and the slack never got any less. It gets tight on the exhaust side, but then there is slack on the intake side. When I rotate the crank more after tightening the tensioner it gets loose.
     
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