I just bought a new car...help please!

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well, damn...i bought the rotors because my fronts need to be resurfaced...i thought cross drilled/ slotted were good because i see them all the time on big brake kits driving around and at shows...i payed 120 for the front two and got some green stuff pads..what makes cross drilled/slotted rotors so bad? is it just the pads wearing prematurely? would it be better if i installed them in the rear? i have rear disks...
 
oh also, i still think that since blanks have more surface area, they don't dissipate heat as effectively...i think that the crossdrilled ones will last longer and not warp...i do want to make track visits every now and then, maybe a couple times a month...someone explain why crossdrilled is bad besides pad wear...
 
Oh boy, every time we discuss crossdrilled and slotted rotors on this forum, it's always a huge debate that ends with neither side agreeing. I'll do the best I can to just say what I've learned and feel comfortable with trusting.

First, you cannot put them on the rear. Front and rear are different sizes.

Now, you see crossdrilled and slotted at shows and on big brake kits because there is very widespread mis-information. Hell Porche only uses them because it gives the racing look it's customers are going for, not for street performance. If you want to keep them for when you do go to the track, that would get some use out of them atleast. Chances are when you go to the track, one track day eats a set of pads and rotors and brake fluid. Brake fluid will start to draw in moisture from the air and get less responsive with the addition of heat.

Surface area directly translates to head dissapation. More surface area means more surface in contact with air particles which inturn increases the rate at which heat will transfer from metal to air.

Cross drilled rotors have the same susceptibility to warp as any other rotor. They will not last longer, and will actually last a shorter amount of time due to the uneven wear caused by the holes and the multiple resurfacing jobs that will be needed to keep them consistant. They cause uneven wear around the holes. Just take a look at pictures of some used drilled rotors on google images. You'll see how the holes have trails coming from them from where the pad makes abmormal contact. Plus, less surface area for heat disapation.

Cross drilled and slotted = Track only with asbestos pads
Cross drilled = Asbestos pads
Slotted = Track only
Blanks = Street & track
 
okay...my question is that STI's have drilled rotors...my girlfriend has one, and she never has to replace pads...i don't think that she's changed pads more than once, and she races at Birmingham race track 4 times a month...usually all day, leaves home at 11 and gets back at 6...4 of which she's driving hard on the track...so, as long as they are safe to drive on the street and won't require me to change pads on a weekly basis, then i'll go with the drilled for now...plus, i don't brake really hard when i stop, i usually let off the gas and rev-match downshift to slow down...i only brake when i'm rolling in second and just put it in neutral to avoid first gear...or, if an idiot pulls out in front of me and slams on the brakes...my coilovers are great, though...they corner well, but they ride a little rough because i have my car 5 inches off the ground...so far, so good though, no bottoming out or anything...
 
Sounds good man. I have no first hand experiance on it, but read about them extensively. Give them a shot and maybe post back your experiances at the end of their life.

Heal-toe downshifts? :) ...Good shiz
 
well, fuck, i don't know what to do with these now...maybe i should get blanks, but it may be too late...what should i do? i bought these on ebay...i think i'll talk to jim and see if he can tell me...what do you think i should do?
 
I think you should save them for track days only. Put them on before you leave for the track, and remove them afterward. Just toss on some blanks and call it a day.

Are they brembo's? If they're a no name brand, I probably wouldn't chance my saftey and even run them though. They need to be cast with holes, like you should have probably read.

Blanks are cheap. Duralast blanks are fine, and have a warrenty against warpage :)
 
nevermind...i called jim and he said that they are just fine, every car he has built for himself since 1998 has had drilled and slotted rotors and he's never had failure or warpage...nor has he had to change pads more than usual and he's even had them on a car used for weekend track and he said they are fine...he says that the reason that f1 cars use ceramic and zinc setups is because the holes develop cracks under extreme endurance conditions and very hard braking...i mean, we're talking about braking from 170mph to 50 in seconds...not even an OEM blank could withstand that for hours of abuse and last...i just will try them and see, but he said he's ordered the exact same brakes as mine for a friend with a 480 whp turbo setup...he said that they're fine for street and auto-x...
 
if they are brembo drilled and slotted or not throw them on. regardless if they are from ebay or not there is a reason brembo is as well known as they are. Quality parts. Don't get me wrong the drilled and slotted rotors make less sense on a daily driven car because of the holes and slots doing their job and shaving a layer of the pad off, and what not but if you spent the money on the Brembo's run them.
 
yea, that's what i'll do...i just dropped my car by motorvations to get new motor mounts and a lighter clutch...the old mounts were so shitty...they were a combination of integra mounts and a 99 si rear mount that was welded for length...they were gonna go out with the way i drive..i'm gonna miss that clutch, though...as dumb as it was to have a stage 3 on a 170 horse motor, it still barked third easily...it was so easy, i had a buddy that never drove a lift motor do it on his first time...he drives a truck, so it's kinda funny...powerwise, it'll be a while before i do it right...
question, what size throttle body should i get? i think that i'll make a turbo setup and install my graduation present, i graduate in two years...gonna be a junior, baby!!!
i'll worry about it then, i'll just build all-motor and then think about turbo in 2 years...i don't think i'll want it, though...i'll have a built head, so maybe an lsvtec because b18s are a dime a dozen here in Bama...turbo just has too much worries for me, one day if i can afford another civic i'll boost it so i don't have to worry about renting a car to go to work...
if i have hondata, too, lsvtec will be easy and i won't have to worry about a computer...i'll have a good head to use with valvetrain upgrades and good flow...that's what i'll do for graduation instead of turbo...more fun...
so the next task for you guys is telling me more good mods i can do besides manifold, throttle body and tuning...oh and also, the size throttle body i should use...i figure with a valvetrain, i could use a sicker cam and really kick some ass on the street...
 
Shoot, your ideas are failing. LS/vtec is going to require a tune still. Cams will require a tune. Anything internal to the motor outside of stock specifications you'll need a tune.

Format your posts better. God damn is that an eyesore!

You cannot build for all motor and then go turbo. NOT going to happen. As soon as you tear your motor apart, unless you have the means and want to tear it apart again, there's a fork in the road right now. Choose.

Use up your slotted drilled, but I wouldn't spend the money on them again. You'll get more effective braking with blanks...

The size of your throttle body is not going to help on an otherwise stock motor. It could hurt.

You've got a lot of learning to do before you spend this money...
 
i know, i think i'll choose all-motor...

dude, anything would require a tune...i'm not worried about dyno time...my motor is not stock, though...its got the cams, intake, headers, cat, and soon to have a blaster coil...
my buddy totaled his del sol and he's giving me a shitload of parts, including a blaster coil and some interior trim stuff, and also a battery relocator kit...
anyway, i've come to the point where i've chosen all-motor, it's cheaper to build an ls-vtec and i think it's more stout than a turbo...

of course, this is 2 years away...for now, b16 is enough...i just want to make it the best it can be all-motor...

so a throttle body wouldn't help me? please explain why...i would have thought that something that increased air flow would be beneficial...after a valvetrain and sick cams, would it help at all?
 
It can help some, but there is a formula for calcuation of TB size. I remember reading about it on here before. Blanco knows. Maybe he can chime in and shed some light for ya. It has to do with fluid dynamics, and the vorticies of wind created in the intake plenum and runners to help atomization of gas.

Ok, sorry, didn't apear to me you knew exactly what was up with tuning.

A blaster coil won't help one bit. Stock honda ignition systems are good in 800+hp setups. Any msd would only be necessary for high boost conditions where a spark is not being fully created. In your case, it's just wasted baggage (extra weight). So if you want all motor, there's absolutely no reason to put it in. Post it up in our Parts for sale and maybe make some money tward other upgrades.

Your going to spend multiple times the cost of going turbo to get what your talking about NA.

Just boost the stock internals to 200~250whp. Probably half the cost, if not less, and you'll make more power!
 
extra weight? dude, it weighs as much as a gameboy, how would that be extra weight? i'm not building an Formula 1 car, it's daily driven...lol

anyway, the parts that jim ordered got cross shipped from california, so they won't be here until tomorrow...my headlights and corners came in, i can't wait to put them on...
the brakes are great, i installed them and they seem fine...they bite harder, but they are great in the rain...it's been raining lately, and they perform well and they don't get those glazing spots like my last ones...
 
I was emphisizing how it is unnecessary. It technically is, but more so, it's something that you could sell and get something else more worthwhile.
 
oh, okay...i think i'll save for a skunk2 manifold, get some dope skunk2 valvetrain package, get some sick cams, and then mill the head and p&p the head...get hondata and tune the air-fuel at the dyno along with the cams...change the vtec engagement rpm and raise the rev limit...anything else i should get? i heard a oil catch can, anything else?
 
Here's an idea... if you want better gas mileage and more power at the same time, just invest in a good turbo setup with a SMALL turbo. 250whp on a B16 with instant response is nothing to sneeze at, and if you get a very quick spooling turbo, you'll actually gain efficiency in city driving and on the highway. It would require some good tuning, but it's not hard.

Most of the time an aggressive all motor setup will really eat into your fuel economy. I'm not saying they're bad- I LOVE all motor setups. I've sunk quite a bit of money into them. What you have to think about though is that your all motor components are active ALL the time, so you have to compensate with fueling and timing ALL the time. A turbo setup only boosts when you get heavy with your right foot- the rest of the time the engine lays dormant and acts like a normal unmodified engine. This is an oversimplification, but it's something to think about.

;)
 
Well if you go all motor, you can increase the compression for more power.

But really, Calesta is saying what I've been saying all along, but better than I did. I would do what he suggested. It's really a good idea. And again, will probably cost less. No head work required, maybe just some GSR cams at the most (high lift, short duration).
 
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