i THINK my ostrich fried my ECU

[DelSlo]

hey guys, so i just finished my turbo install on my B16a2

i started it up today on my P06. it was already chipped and socketed and had a program running in it all of last summer that a reputable tuner wrote for me on the dyno (splitfire, for anyone in Toronto)
so today i wanted to start my car to let it idle and bleed the cooling system it idle mint, no hiccups no misfires and NO CODES. i got my usb drivers set up today for my ostrich so i go out later tonight and decide to see if it will communicate with the ECU, so i pull out my chip, and plug in the ostrich, i uploaded a stock p30 map, (my b16 is unmodified internally) so i figured that would work, then i was gonna play with idle and stuff just to see if it would respond. well it says it was, it verified the rom, i removed checksum from rom, disabled injector test and knock and ELD and started it up, it ran like a bag and the engine light stayed on solid, wouldnt shut off even with KOEO. so i trie to change some fuel and idle just to see, like i said if it would change, well the progress bar says it was sent, and it said the rom was verified. but it didnt change anything with the engine, so after disabling a bunch of stuff to see if the light would go out, it wouldnt, so i put back in my old chip and took out the ostrich, the light now stays on with my old chip and it has a solid cel. when jumping connector, no flashess just solid light, so i got a stock P05 ecu i had from a 94 CX. it idled funny, but i expected that, but the engine light didnt come on, is there anything i can do to check why i now suddenly have a solid ceL after plugging in the ostrich. this is my first attempt at playing with it, any direction anybody can send me in i would appreciate it. im new to crome and ostrich so i could have very well done something wrong, but the cel wasnt on with my old chip, so why could it possibly be on after using ostrich?? and just a small side note, i heard chips only work when put in one way but the ostrich and my 27c256 chip operated both ways.... by the way its a chipped P06 ecu tuning Via Crome Pro

and nothing on the board i can see looks burnt or fried............... thanx!

 

[posol]

did you plug in the ostrich backwards??

it really doesn't send enough voltage to burn up a board....

i bet what happened was when you pulled out the chip and plugged in the rom end of the ostrich, you broke a solder. re-check all the solders that you made.

 

[MikeBergy]

Put the ignition in the key on engine off position, and try reloading the rom into the ostrich through crome. That should fix your problem. The ostrich needs power coming from the ecu in order for you to load the rom correctly while it is plugged in. I had the exact same problem with my pm6. You just have to do everything in the correct order.

also, regarding the orientation of your chip and the ostrich, if you are using the chip, the pc board actually has an outline of the chip etched into the board. You'll see a little notch on one of the ends of the chip. For my pm6, the little notch is pointing in toward the center of the ecu. The red wire on the ostrich ribbon cable corresponds to this notch, and they will only work one way, or else you'll get a solid CEL. Hope this helps you. I'm almost 100% positive you didn't fry the ecu. My ecu got wet while the cover was off, and it is still fine. They are fairly robust for electronics.

Also, if you haven't already, invest in a zif socket, the screw down type...xenocron has them.

 

[DelSlo]

Thanx for the replies guys. ok im off to the shop this morning but ill try it when i come get home first thing. so with the key on engine off i can take a p30 BIN thats stock and i go to the "put" button correct?? see ive never loaded a bin before with the ostrich, i watched John Cui's video last night and i learned alot but i didnt quite get what i was looking for, what is the proper procedure for correctly loading a BIN file into the ECU. i just dont understand why my old chip would set a solid cel when it never did before, and why the P05 has no codes. anyways brian you could possibly be right, i never soldered the board myself, i bought it chipped, i did do a quick look over the solder of the two capacitors and the J1 resistor, couldnt see anything noticible but it definetly doesnt hurt to check again. is that possible for you to give me a quick play by play on how to properly load a BIN with ostrich and crome.. thanx alot guys!

 

[posol]

no, key must be on. otherwise the ecu isn't on.

 

[MikeBergy]

1) Open Crome
2) Make sure ostrich is plugged in and properly connected to the ecu.
3) Open bin file
4) Turn ignition to the Key On Engine Off position.
5) Put...or whatever you push to load the bin into the ostrich. For me, it's RTP in TurboEdit.

It should be loaded and ready for editing as long as you are connected. I'm not sure if in Crome that you need to update the ostrich by pushing the PUT button after every update, because for TurboEdit, it just stays connected and changes the rom as you edit it, no need to load anything after getting it up and running.

Oh yeah, and make sure that the ROM you are using is supported in Crome for the ostrich. I know that the pr4 stock rom is not supported using the ostrich with turboedit, and you might run into similar problems.

 

[DelSlo]

thanx bergy and B.

ill go give it a shot right now, yeah i see what your sayin bergy, from what i understand in crome if you select realtime updates it changes as you edit, but as far as loading a new bin, im not sure, but i will follow your suggestions, thanx for the help.

this site is so much more helpful than PGMFI.org. the say its good for ppl who own the software they support and they can help you, but ive never gotten one single answer to any question ive asked on there, ppl act like they were never new to this stuff before, ill figure it all out, i just need some tips and a little help with electronics to get me rolling, but thank you again, ill let ya know how it goes

 

[MikeBergy]

You just need to know where to post, and what to ask on PGMFI.org. I'm on there in the Turboedit and Pm6 forums alot. Ben Ogle is also a really good ear, but yeah, it's hard to answer some questions, as you don't really understand where some people are coming from, how informed they are, what they are capable of, etc...You just gotta keep questions coming, research, etc... and eventually you'll just sorta build your knowledge. Keep up the effort, and keep going on pgmfi, it'll all sink in eventually. I started out in the same boat as you, am still learning, and working on my own edition of TurboEdit. Keep learnin, bro.

 

[DelSlo]

Quoted post[/post]]
You just need to know where to post, and what to ask on PGMFI.org. I'm on there in the Turboedit and Pm6 forums alot. Ben Ogle is also a really good ear, but yeah, it's hard to answer some questions, as you don't really understand where some people are coming from, how informed they are, what they are capable of, etc...You just gotta keep questions coming, research, etc... and eventually you'll just sorta build your knowledge. Keep up the effort, and keep going on pgmfi, it'll all sink in eventually. I started out in the same boat as you, am still learning, and working on my own edition of TurboEdit. Keep learnin, bro.

thanx alot.

id just like to make clear, im not asking how to tune my car or for anyone to give up the knowledge they have gained from experience. even i would keep it to myself. but im not asking for that, im just trying to get this all set up and ill continue learning as i go, ive learned alot so far, ive read ALOT and i know what i have to do, im just trying to get to the point where i can actually Tune, im just hit a small speedbump here thats all! again thanx for the help, i appreciate it very much. i didnt go out to try it yesterday or today, its too cold and my laptop starts doing funny stuff when its a few degrees below freezing. Canada can suck sometimes!

 

[MikeBergy]

let us know how things go when it warms up up there. I'm sure the problems you are having are going to be solved with the solutions I gave you, unless you somehow DID fry your ecu. Anyway. I don't keep any of the information I've learned from my experience to myself. That is why I'm on these forums. I learn new stuff everyday, and help out others as much as I can. No need to be selfish with free information. Now, if you are going to ask me about my flying car design, that's a different story...

 

[DelSlo]

hey bergy and B.

Thanx for the help. i followed your steps and it worked fine, no more CEL. i loaded Base p30 bin and the car fired up idled fine and no CEL

im just trying to hookup my LC1 wideband, i cant wait to get all this computer stuff worked out. ughhhhh

 

[MikeBergy]

just wire the analog output of the lc-1 into the stock harness plug by the engine. I did that, and it works great, no hacking of the ecu harness.

 

[DelSlo]

Quoted post[/post]]
just wire the analog output of the lc-1 into the stock harness plug by the engine. I did that, and it works great, no hacking of the ecu harness.

what wire do i want to tap into on the engine harness side? the 02 wire?

when you datalogg, i thought i read that you connect analog out #2 which is the wideband output into the ECU wires for the 02 sensor, and datalog through crome reading your o2 voltage, that didnt sound right to me, wont the computer freak out if it starts seeing over 2 volts?? should i just log through log works?? i dont know which way is better or easy or both

im just a little confused on the hook up of the datalogging.

thanx again though for the steps for uploading roms. after i did it and i got it figured all out after 10 mins, im saying in my head.. "what a fuckin noob" no wonder brian hates me! hahaha

 

[reikoshea]

definitely use log works. your ecu thinks of your O2 sensor like a switch on-rich off-lean (or vice versa) when it gets an ACTUAL O2 signal its gonna go ape shit.

im pretty new to tuning, but if you check out the videos on innovate.com they are REALLY helpful in learning how to tune and how to setup your system. the LC-1 isnt fully explained, but a lot of the LM1 stuff applies (minus how to use the meter)

 

[DelSlo]

Quoted post[/post]]
definitely use log works. your ecu thinks of your O2 sensor like a switch on-rich off-lean (or vice versa) when it gets an ACTUAL O2 signal its gonna go ape shit.

im pretty new to tuning, but if you check out the videos on innovate.com they are REALLY helpful in learning how to tune and how to setup your system. the LC-1 isnt fully explained, but a lot of the LM1 stuff applies (minus how to use the meter)

thanx man, yeah ive watched those videos but exactly like you said, not much info on the LC1. ive had some small victories so far, got the ostrich communicating with crome and with the ecu. no codes..yet. i got my lC1 calibrated today which was cool, but then when i tried to use logworks to log a real time session. #1 it said select a comm port, it gave me two options, i tried both, and got the same results. wouldnt it pop up a message or something if it couldnt connect? or does it just assume you know?? anyways the logging in real time option was grayed out and i went to start the car to see if it needed to see data in order to start working. buuuuuuuuuut the battery was too low to start the car haha oh well probably better, im gonna read the rest of the logworks manual after my basketball game tonight, but i gotta get suited it up for now, so ill leave it at that for today.


so you are saying, use logworks to monior air/fuel and you just use crome to tune and datalogg all other sensor info? i thought a/f was logged in crome for your target lambda? what programs do you have open when you are tuning. so far it looks like ill just have crome open and logworks. should i have more for reference and stuff??

 

[reikoshea]

you have to have that stereo to serial adapter plugged into your laptop and the analog out of your LC1 to log the information.

the couple times that i have tuned, i use crome and logworks. log works will give you the modifier to change your table in crome. i dont have log works on this computer (or any other computer within 40 miles) but hopefully when MY LM1 gets here next week i can walk you through it.

 

[DelSlo]

Quoted post[/post]]
you have to have that stereo to serial adapter plugged into your laptop and the analog out of your LC1 to log the information.

the couple times that i have tuned, i use crome and logworks. log works will give you the modifier to change your table in crome. i dont have log works on this computer (or any other computer within 40 miles) but hopefully when MY LM1 gets here next week i can walk you through it.

cool cool. well i just followed the manual. calibrated, did the stereo to serial adapter, put the terminator into the analog in plug, and hooked it to my laptop. like i said, im not sure whether or not data has to be coming through in order for it to turn the guages on, i wouldnt think so, but then again, what do i know, battery is charging and i gotta get reading the rest of this manual for logworks, thanx again for your reply man!

 

[MikeBergy]

Quoted post[/post]]
definitely use log works. your ecu thinks of your O2 sensor like a switch on-rich off-lean (or vice versa) when it gets an ACTUAL O2 signal its gonna go ape shit.

im pretty new to tuning, but if you check out the videos on innovate.com they are REALLY helpful in learning how to tune and how to setup your system. the LC-1 isnt fully explained, but a lot of the LM1 stuff applies (minus how to use the meter)

You can turn the o2 sensor off in TurboEdit, and log the wideband through the ecu if you have a datalogging port. It works fine on my pm6, and I'm pretty sure from reading up on crome that it can be done on that software too, using a p28, which it sounds like you have.. logworks sucks imo, after using maptrace in turboedit, I'll never go back to an external datalogging program. As for my setup, I run my wideband o2 signal to the actual o2 plug. I don't know how feasible it is with a 4 wire o2 as it is with my 1 wire o2 setup, but here is a pic to illustrate. The o2 plug is at the top of the pic. For me, the o2 bung is just to the left side of the front of the header, but it will work at any location.

I'd get crome pro if I were you, and I actually may in the near future if obd0 doesn't work out for me, but for now I am completely satisfied with the way that turboedit works.

 

[DelSlo]

thanx bergy. well i actually am using crome pro. so far like isaid, i can get it to communicate with the ecu and upload new roms and such, i have yet to solder my datalogging connector onto my board, and yes i am using a P06 that is chipped. everything is chipped except the datalogging port. im still practicing soldering on an old PM6 board, but i cant find desoldering braid ANYWHERE except for online. and those litle desolder vacuums suck IMO.


im having issues with logworks right now, ive got my lc1 calibrated and it warms up and everything with the key on, ive got it hooked up to the comp but it wont let me start a real time log. if wont display any info on the guages. i just want to see my a/f at idle but i cant get it to communicate. any tips you can give me on getting started on logworks?? thanx


im still not clear on this, you send your wideband output into your ECU signal wire? the computer see's this as ok?

what do you do when you want to put our narrowband back in??

thanx again for the replies. you guys are keeping me rolling right now!

 

[reikoshea]

well i never connect the wideband to the ecu...only to the laptop. if the person wants wideband AFRs i hook up the gauge too.

Most ECUs freak out at wideband signal

Its only hooked up to log works, and occassionally an AFR gauge.