I want a '96 4 Door White Civic M/T, for around $2200....is this possible?

[eg'sforlife]

dude seriously just shut the fuck up....again you start in with the whole "well you drive this" yet you deny you do that......just get the fuck out im mean seriously get a fucking job live on your own for a few months then tell us how easy it is to just go buy a new car that has good emissions.... for the people that work and save pennys just so they can build there car fucking emissions is the last thing they give a flying fuck about... o by the way i burnt 500 hundred tires just for you yesterday

 

[B16RacerN2NR]

A/C would be a last resort and would be for passengers who are complainers. I want a fuel efficient car that I can also bring people along in, which is why I'm choosing a practical 4 door with lots of head and leg room in both the front and back instead of a 2 seater or a tiny hatchback. When I drive my sister's black Volvo S60, 99% of the time I have the air conditioning off, even when it's 105F according to the car's thermostat and 100F+ according to the weather report but once in a while, the temperatures in the car become so unbearable that I'll cycle the air conditioning for about 30 seconds before shutting it off once again.

You do realize that air drag from having the windows rolled down while you're driving has a more dramatic effect on mpg's than driving with the a/c on right? I know you got the windows rolled down because there's no way you're driving in 100 degree weather with them up. It's just humanly impossible because cars get 20-30 degrees hotter (during the summer of course) than the outside temp when the windows are rolled up, so please don't try and say you're the exception.

Also, I read the thread that had something about obd and safety. The two have NOTHING, I repeat, NOTHING, to do with each other. The reason the 96+ have a better safety rating than the 92-95's is because the entire car/chassis is a different design. This is a serious question here so answer this honestly please but why and how did you come to this conclusion that On Board Diagnostics (OBD) had anything to do with how much safer the car would be in a crash?

I'm having a really hard time understanding how this-----> On-board diagnostics - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia correlates with this-----> Crashtest.com - Introduction to the crash-test ratings

 

[imzjustplayin]

You do realize that air drag from having the windows rolled down while you're driving has a more dramatic effect on mpg's than driving with the a/c on right? I know you got the windows rolled down because there's no way you're driving in 100 degree weather with them up. It's just humanly impossible because cars get 20-30 degrees hotter (during the summer of course) than the outside temp when the windows are rolled up, so please don't try and say you're the exception.

Also, I read the thread that had something about obd and safety. The two have NOTHING, I repeat, NOTHING, to do with each other. The reason the 96+ have a better safety rating than the 92-95's is because the entire car/chassis is a different design. This is a serious question here so answer this honestly please but why and how did you come to this conclusion that On Board Diagnostics (OBD) had anything to do with how much safer the car would be in a crash?

I'm having a really hard time understanding how this-----> On-board diagnostics - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia correlates with this-----> Crashtest.com - Introduction to the crash-test ratings

I drive with the car's fan blowing and the windows down in the city (less than 35mph) because there is little wind resistance at those speeds and at highway speeds, I've got the windows up, using the car's fan but sometimes there's a point where I can't use the fan because it gets too hot (even after using recirculate) to the point where using the fan feels like being in a convection oven and so I have to turn that off as well. The very few times I had to turn on the A/C was when I was sitting in traffic going 0mph for a LONG time, the sun was baking the car, couldn't use the fan anymore and I simple could not stand it, so I cycled the A/C on for about 30 seconds and cycled it off again, waited until it became unbearable again which was probably about 5 minutes, cycled it on again then off again.

That's so funny that you bring up the OBD and safety issue. The OBD and safety WERE related for MY purposes, I made it pretty clear why the OBD and safety were related and yet some people continue to not understand what I was talking about... Had the Sixth Generation been available in the 1995 MY and had OBD-I, it wouldn't have been an issue because the Sixth gen is safer than the 5th gen, so then I had to decide whether the safety was less important than the fact the car had OBD-I (which is what I wanted). I did NOT want a car with OBD-II but I did want a safer car and the Sixth gen just so happens to have OBD-II but was measurably safer than the Fifth gen. The issue resolved itself after I had discovered the Sixth gen car weighed the same, had more leg room in the rear seats, more head room, the D16Y5 was about the same efficiency as the D15Z1 (b/c of higher compression ratio), cost about the same ('94 & '95) which in turn made the issue about using the OBD-II ecu just for emissions testing acceptable. That's what those threads were about!

If that wasn't simple enough for you, let's try again.
Sixth Gen car had things I want and things I didn't want
Fifth Gen car had things I want and things I didn't want
I had to decide whether to choose a Sixth Gen car or Fifth Gen car.
I ended up choosing Sixth Gen car because I discovered new things that I liked about the car that overall made my opinion of the Sixth Gen higher than the Fifth Gen car.

GET IT?

 

[B16RacerN2NR]

Honestly, I don't get it. I don't understand how OBD was such a big deal given the fact that for years there's been jumper harnesses allowing you to run what ever OBD system you want, regardless of what year/OBD the car originally came with...

It's your money and time though, waste it how ever you please lol

 

[FLounder]

this shit makes my head hurt. may be the worst troll ive ever seen....

 

[imzjustplayin]

Honestly, I don't get it. I don't understand how OBD was such a big deal given the fact that for years there's been jumper harnesses allowing you to run what ever OBD system you want, regardless of what year/OBD the car originally came with...

It's your money and time though, waste it how ever you please lol

Well it wasn't just OBD, it was also the fact that I wouldn't be able to use the D15Z1 with the Sixth generation chassis cause I figured that the D15Z1 is going to use less fuel than the D16Y5 but after looking at it more carefully, I saw that the D16Y5 has a higher compression ratio which makes up for the higher displacement vs. the D15Z1. If it turns out that the D16Y5 has more of a performance cam over the D15Z1, I can always get another cam made for it that would most closely match if not be the D15Z1 cam. I wanted the most fuel efficient engine that could do lean burn and I thought the D16Y5 didn't have a wideband O2 sensor like the Z1 so I'd figure that it'd have much less aggressive if it all any lean-burn function compared to the Z1.

Summary:
Was worried that D16Y5 wouldn't be as fuel efficient as D15Z1, turns out that probably won't be the case.
D16Y5 has higher compression ratio so it should closely match D15Z1 in fuel efficiency (D15 may have less displacement but also has lower compression as well)
D16Y5 should have a wideband O2 sensor just like the D15Z1
If the cams are more performance tuned D16Y5, I can just use D15Z1 or make similar cams for it.
Therefore there isn't too much to worry about in terms of the OBD version and so I should be fine with a Sixth Generation Civic.