ehhh this thread sucks. lots of bullshit going on
#1 - unless you can get that crashed POS fucked up car for 1 grand or less, don't. its not worth more than that. 90% of the turbo parts are useless and cracked/broken. the exahust manifold probably ripped a stuf or two out of the head. the turbo is crushed and bent. its useless. i cant see it, but i guarantee the intercooler is gone, along with the piping for it. basically, i see a good IM, and a bov. The waste gate is not there, which means water and everything else got into the entire turbo system, and the motor... who knows if a rat or something crawled in. in otherwords, buy the JG IM and BOV if you want, the rest in my opinion is useless.
#2 - Running 12s. running a 12.99 vs a 12.01 is night and day. you posted a list. allow myself to tear it apart after i organize it a little better
b20b4 block
JE low compression pistons
Eagle rods
Arp bolts
darton sleeves
ok, not bad.... but i would go with Golden Eagle over darton. That, and HOW low? i would at least keep compression between 9-9.5:1
b16 head
port and polish
ferrea valve train
cometic high boost head gasket
ok, ferrea valve train, and a port/polish job is going to run you at least 2 grand plus a b16 head. you want to do it the CHEAPEST way, don't bother with head work. stock b16 head will hold you over fine.
somewhere around 440cc fuel injectors
somewhere around 40 g/hr fuel pump
not nearly enough injectors. you need 720s
g/hr is for domestics
you want the Walboro 255 High Pressure intank pump
bigger fuel rail
holley EFI fuel pressure regulator
Holley High-Flow EFI 68mm throttle body
helix power tower throttle body raiser
K&N filtercharger
all of the above are useless.
720s will fit in fine. you DONT want more rail pressue (aka what an fmu does) you want more flow.
air filter? ummmm hello and welcome to boost, where you no longer have a stock air box, nor a cold air intake, or anything like that.
JG Edelbrock Competition B18C VTEC intake manifold
umm... but you want to use a b16a head. a b18c IM wont bolt on to a b16a head. differetn bolt pattern
traction bar
jimfab.com
eibach drag-launch coil springs
custom 3" exhaust
what about shocks???
t3/t3 hybrid turbo
assuming thats a type for t3/t4,
you are still small.
at LEAST get a t3 60-1, or better yet, a precision sc61 (precisionte.com)
e6k engine management
do you have a haltek tuner? if you don't get hondata. Haltek is no joke. its impossible to use unless you KNOW how to use it. hondata is plenty for your car, cheaper, and frankly, its bad ass.
stage 3 6 puck clutch
stage is nothing. a company makes their owns stages. stage 3 act != stage 3 centerforce, and so on.
just get an ACT with their extreeme pressure plate.
GSR tranny
ok, and get a quaiffe LSD installed in it
power slot break rotors
gay.
get brembo blanks
and a good set of hawk pads (hp+) from
http://www.collettimotorsports.com
or if you want to spend more, talk to
http://www.fastbrakes.com
msd ignition
useless for the power you want.
run at 16ish psi on 17's full interior
Having a goal of hitting a certain psi is stupid. go for a power gaol.
running on 17s is even stupider. 15x7 is all you need for street, 13x8 for the track. if you want to argue this in ANY manner, you are a ricer. you will never get the traction you need on a 17, and you will be slow.
Full interior, cool- but you will need a bar/cage at some drag ways to run 12s. just keep that in mind.
anyway, you are missing a shit load of parts.
Intercooler? PWR
piping? who knows...
tail 40mm wastegate (make sure you manifold has the proper flange
and speaking of, WHICH manifold? drag sucks. full-race owns.
do you still want a/c? cuz that's an issue
BOV- greddy type R, etc .75 bar spring
tires - BFG drag radials
motor mounts- hapsort solid replacements are a good idea
go on a diet so you are lighter
no stereo shit
driver skill so you don't burn the tires up the whole way down
avcr boost controller for variable rpm boost pressure
balls to drive it.
welp, hopefully i sent you back to the drawing board before you made a big mistake on some parts....
