I want more power out of my SOHC!! HELP

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duder there tona and tons of people all over the net that warns people about ssa crap.and ive seen it with my own eyes
 
yea i agree he should turbp it, but if your comparing a built all motor d to a stock b the d will slauter it


maby i said it wrong. built d will own stock b.

but for the money built turbo d will beat on a na d all day long



and dont buy a turbo kit. waste of money. go to Homemadeturbo.com read read and build your own kit

and the ebay kit is a pos. i have some shit from one of them still and it was a waste of 599. read up on HMT and it is not hard to build a turbo kit that will fit your indavidual needs power goals for much less. at most 1500. still beter than any kit iv seen
 
duder there tona and tons of people all over the net that warns people about ssa crap.and ive seen it with my own eyes
As I'm sure there are people who have had good luck with them.Rather than spend $2,000 it's worth it for me to drop $500 and see if I like it and then save the money up for a decent set up and who knows I may get 2-3 years out of it or rather than buy a whole new set up keep the piping and it may be a decent cooler and just buy a sweet turbo and manifold set up??? Make sense???
 
As I'm sure there are people who have had good luck with them.Rather than spend $2,000 it's worth it for me to drop $500 and see if I like it and then save the money up for a decent set up and who knows I may get 2-3 years out of it or rather than buy a whole new set up keep the piping and it may be a decent cooler and just buy a sweet turbo and manifold set up??? Make sense???

alrighty just let me know when she blows ill by the turbo main from ya
 
Anything worth doing, is worth doing correctly the first time.

Spend more up front to spend less in the long run.

I have been on Honda Tech and have now read several quotes of people who have had excellent luck with the ebay turbo crap.I guess it's rolling the dice but like I said the most important parts are obviously the turbo and manifold.So I'm sure I can keep the tubing (as I'm sure thats all pretty much the same) buy a used good bov if need be and upgrade the turbo/manifold if it does turn out to be junk?? Why does anyone not agree with this....you can get a good turbo off ebay for $200-$300 bucks and another $200-300 for a good manifold!!!
 
So how does everyone feel about going the homemade route with the HF manifold/adapter plate and maybe a T25 and piecing it together that way?? You telling me I'd have better luck doing it that way/reliability???
 
This is my set up.CRX Si with D16Z6 and Si transmission.I have a comp cam 59100,cai,header and stainless exhaust.What I'm wondering is where to go to next in order to squeeze more power out of my set up.I don't want turbo or supercharger.I want to keep it all motor.
Will a lightened flywheel and new internals in the block help out?? If so what do you suggest?? Also what can be done to the tranny as far as gearing is concerned?? I'm fairly new to the Honda scene but hooked and here to stay.So I'm open to any and all suggestions as I'm far from a master mechanic.Thanks guys.
I hear Eagle makes good product so maybe some pistons/maybe not,gimme some sugestions!!
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what for just give up.. the rod to stroke ratio suck so you wont' make any power. and the only way to make power out of na is to rev higher and make power higher.. just turbo and call it a day

YouTube - Turbod

does a d15 rank fit in to a d16 engine.. ???
 
That's why you build an engine to its strength instead of trying to make it something it's not. ;)


there are thing that you can't built. simply cause the engine wasn't built to. for example you said that's why you built an engine to its strength.... it's not they your rod can't handle.. it's because of the wear and tear when you rev you engine up that high. at the speed if you haven noitce the rods begain to expan and unless u got ab16 where you have alot of room between your rods and you bottom clyinder wall, the d16 long stroke gonna come in contact with your rods and your clyinder wall. that's why there is a soo call rod/stroke ratio. think about it when your engine is at 8k with that 90mm stroke your rods gonna virberate so much your clyinder rings , clyinder wall and your piston all gonna wear out.... the engine is not built to rev that high.. it is the reason why they break.... no matter what or how strong you built..
 
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Um...what? :blink: :emofo:

I really can't tell what you're trying to say or if you're agreeing with me or not. So...yeah.

What I meant was, if you have an engine that engineered to make torque low, build it to that end. If you have an engine that was meant to rev high and make power up top, build it to that end.


what.. i dont' even remember what you were saying.. since you cant' undrstand english here is a pointer.. dont' rev your engine above 7.5k okay. unless you d-stroke your engine to have a nice rod to stroke ratio.. lord known the d16z6 can't rev high.... the d15 crank rod ratio is superior to a d16 pulling out a 1.62 rod to stroke ratio... the g-force is too great on your crank, your going to spin a bearing... trust me i know...

Another argument for a high R/S ratio is that the point of maximum piston velocity is when the crank is 90 degrees to the rod. With a high R/S ratio the point of maxumum piston velocity is less than with a short one. This allows you to have the intake valve open further by this point. This is where the maximum pressure differential between the cylinder and the intake tract is and thus is where you want to have the lowest restriction.

Turbod the video
click here
YouTube - Turbod
 
Its ur pick...

Yea, as much as i like hearing a NA sohc revving a 7grand, if u are cheap like me, a HMT is the way to go. Im still deciding what i should do...i dont want my pm7's to go to waste, neither do i want my turbo mani to go to waste. Decisions, decisions...
 
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