I Want To Pull Some Ponies Out Of My D16y7

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NewAgeCivicz

Senior Member
I have a 97 dx coupe (daily driver) and this payday i have 500 to spend.. what would u guys recommend, i have all ur major bolt ons except headers (was unsure if i wanna turbo this car, already turboing my integra)... I think ill go N/A with this car but besides headers, where would u throw the money into the engine??
 
Ok i think i might be answering my own question but is a Mini-me swap where u swap the DX head for a EX (D16Y8) head? If so, where do u think i can pick one up for a 97 at a decent price... i would probaly need the EX ecu and an oil line going to the VTEC solnoid? would it be cheaper to throw some decent engine internals or is the vtec worth the mini swap?
 
Yes you've answered your own question... I read somewhere that you have to have a 92-95 EX head... but I'm sure that a 96-00 will work also. A shop told me that you've have to have an oil line drilled for the VTEC solenoid. Personally I think the VTEC is worth the mini-me swap... I've run into the same problem. I've got a 95 EX head but I don't know which ECU I'll need... they all have these code numbers (PT2, P30, P28)... anyone know which one I'll need? Does it matter if it's off an manual tranny or can the ECU be off an auto-tranny? I drive a 98 LX 5sp. sedan.
 
use a p28 ecu, not sure if it matter manual/auto but if possible try to get one for whatever you have, you can find a p28 ecu from an Si (manual), pretty sure ex's use p28s too but im not positive its just a guess, i stole a p28 ecu from this hatch si at the junk yard, ive talked to people on these forums about the mini me swap (which im doing) and ive never heard that you have to drill an oil line for vtec solenoid
 
Originally posted by 93dxKID@May 4 2003, 08:50 PM
use a p28 ecu, not sure if it matter manual/auto but if possible try to get one for whatever you have, you can find a p28 ecu from an Si (manual), pretty sure ex's use p28s too but im not positive its just a guess, i stole a p28 ecu from this hatch si at the junk yard, ive talked to people on these forums about the mini me swap (which im doing) and ive never heard that you have to drill an oil line for vtec solenoid

mini me swap
here is the page you guys wanted for th mini me. :worthy: . i know we are not worthy, we are scum :lol: anyhow i know the Y8 head is much better than the Z6. just a tip
 
use the P2P ecu, its from an obd2 civic ex. p28 is an obd1, since ur car is obd2 u dont have to go through the hassle of the harness and such. also use the d16y8, since thats obd2....
i have a d16y8 head for sale $170 plus S&H.... good condition has like 40 k miles on it, no bent valves or anything....pm me...
 
Thanks for the article DA69 and the extra info vpSpoonsol. I'm guessing the Y8 head is from the 96-00 EXs? I think I've got the Z6 <_< . I'm still kinda lost... I've already got a '95 EX head and intake manifold... but I'm lost about the VTEC oil line. I don't remember if the shop said it had to be drilled or they just had to build one... :huh:
Thanks for the help again!
 
vSPOON, does the Y8 head bolt straight on or do i need anything special... and if the Y8 is still for sell ill take it.. what is shipping to Milwaukee, WI 53219??
 
I checked back with the shop.... they said the oil line had to be drilled to avoid burning the VTEC line... they also want to charge me $350 for the install and drilling... is that a good price?
 
There is no need to drill a vtec oil line. The heads from a Z6 or Y8 will bolt up. My friend say that if you use the Y8 head, it'll bump the compression up a little (Like .2 or so). For the swap you just have to remove the existing oil jet sprayer in the y7 block(not head). Its located between cylinder 2 and 3 on the intake side(pop it out and toss or keep). Some more other stuff that you need to get is the vtec head bolts, vtec timing belt, vtec intake manifold with throttlebody, and vtec head gasket. Try to get everything for the Z6 head if you get that or the Y8 head if you get that(should be interchangble though). You're looking at all your $500 or more maybe, but well worth the money. :D
 
dont waste ur money on that motor is a waste. want some strong to start out with instead of wasting money trying to keep up. be smart dont be a retart.
 
Well, I'm getting a Y8 head (trading it for the Z6), but I'm keeping the Z6 intake manifold. I bought the Z6 head and intake manifold for $300. I imagine the head bolts, timing belt and head gaskets shouldn't cost more than $120.

noobvang: Can't I use my Y7 throttle body in the mean time?

Quik integra 2 gen: I'd love to just scrap everything and take a B-series (any of them, Civic Si to Integ LS up to Integ R) instead, but I live in TX and it's hard to come by B-series motors for cheap... maybe I'm looking in the wrong places...

If anyone's got any leads, please let me know... I'm not willing to spend $3000 on a B16... too much.

-Allen-
 
No sure, havn't tried this route yet. Best to just get a B series throttle body (bigger bore than D series). Its Plug and Play.
 
this should help:

from the old hondalist


From: "Chris Fitzpatrick" <chris@t...>
Date: Sat Nov 30, 2002 3:15 pm
Subject: Re: [hondalist] Gonna swap a Y8 o to a Y7, need advice on ANYTHING..

below is the small writeup ive done for a mini-me swap...
word of warning.. if the y8 head is a 96-98 and the y8 intake manifold is a 99 or 00 you will need to plug up the injector breather vents (i used permatex) or else you will have a major intake manifold leak.


Here are the parts you will need:
y8 head / intake manifold / throttle body / ecu etc.. basicly everything
head up from the y8

you will need to get a knock sensor since the y8 ecu expects a knock sensor
and y7s didnt come with them, i would try to find one used since from honda
they are around $150 new, there is a port this screws into on the back of
the block right above the oil filter near the top of the block (its pre
threaded). you will want to do this and run a wire for it before you put
your y8 head/manifold on since its near impossible to get to.

as far as wiring there are 6 wires to deal with:
1 for knock sensor (1 pin, must be added see above)
2 for vtec pressure switch (2 pins)
1 for vtec solinoid (1 pin on usually green plug)
2 for idle air control valve (canister hangs off back of y8 manifold near
throttle body with 2 pins)

you can either try to move the wires in your y7 harness or just run new ones
(you can feed them through the boot under the battery holder), since I
couldnt figure out how to remove the pins from the harness and relocate them
without destroying the plug or pins i decided to just run new wires. this
way you can just plug your y7 ecu back into the harness later on if needed
without redoing the wiring again.

4 wires will need to go inside of the car to the ecu, 2 are connected to
things in the engine bay

in engine bay wires:
-one of the pins of the IAC valve, goes to the middle pin on the y7 iac
valve connector, the y7 has a 3 pin connector the y8 has a 2 pin, the other
pin from the y8 iac will run to the ecu (see below)
-one of the pins of the vtec pressure switch needs to goto a good ground,
the other pin runs to the ecu (see below)

from what i can tell it doesnt mater which pin on those two connectors goes
to the engine bay connection (above) or ecu connection (below)

in ecu wires:
here is the pinout for the 96-98 ecu's
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/6gtech/l...iles/EKpinA.jpg
(A/32p)
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/6gtech/l...iles/EKpinC.jpg
(C/31p)
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/6gtech/l...iles/EKpinD.jpg
(D/16p)

-the wire from the knock sensor will goto pin 6 (KS) on plug D/16p
-the wire from the vtec pressure switch will goto pin 15 (VTM) on plug C/31p
-the wire from the vtec solenoid will goto pin 8 (VTSOL) on plug A/32p
-the wire from the iac valve will goto pin 12 (IACV) on plug A/32p

i soldered the wires to the pin connections in the ecu (notched a hole in
the ecu to run the wires into it)

other than the wiring there isnt much to the swap, you just remove the y7
head, put a new headgasket down then put on the y8 head. just make sure to
follow the procedures in a maintenance book (haynes manual recommended).

if you are going to use the y8 exhaust manifold/cat you will need to extend
the wires on the second O2 sensor and then get your exhaust modified to mat
up to the cat (dx exhaust at least on the sedans will go to far forward and
about 10" needs to be cut off for the ex cat to fit under the car)


-Chris

----- Original Message -----
From: VTCCiViC@aol.com
To: hondalist@yahoogroups.com
Cc: RobertBurnsHSD@earthlink.net
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2002 10:52 AM
Subject: [hondalist] Gonna swap a Y8 o to a Y7, need advice on ANYTHING..


Like the title says guys, I'm gonna swap out my friends Y7 head for a Y8 VTEC on his '99 DX coupe proabably next weeked, so I'd like to rack up all the possible advice I can from those of you here who've gotten your hands dirty on there motors already.

As we stand we have pretty much everything. His current motor has only 45k miles, the Y8 head has an unknown amount of miles (off a '96) but it was just sent to a machine shop to get cleaned and relsealed anyways. Now we've got just about everything that I can think we'll need:

complete head w/ soleniod & gasket
head gasket
new head nuts

Can you guys think of anything in he way of random gaskets or seals I'm leaving out? His car rightnow already has a Y8 intake mainifold on it so that won't be much of an issue, my biggest concern it simply getting the head on and working properly #1, and later wiring VTEC to work properly #2.

So again, if there's any bit of advice you can send my way, I'd appreiciate it. Thanks guys..

Dave
Miami, Fl
 
Ok, a friend and I will try the swap this weekend. I've never done this before and neither has he. :ph34r: I've got the gaskets and timing belt and stuff, torque wrench and other various tools, plus the almighty Haynes manual. This seems like a lot bigger job than I thought. We're pretty mechanically inclined and the Haynes manual will hopefully make this pretty simple. Wish me luck! ;)
 
OK, so we haven't done the head swap yet. I'm thinking about a header and exhaust kit pretty soon (within the next month). I read the write-up on the best header to use but that was for a B-series (very informative). What about the mini-me swap? 4-1 or 4-2-1 header? What's a good brand also? I plan on getting the GReddy EVO exhaust, so I'll need an EX header.

I also aquired an AEM fuel rail... please don't flame, but does that just allow more fuel for my motor? I thought that was the job of the injectors?
 
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