IAB wiring questions.

[Grifter]

I have a GSR ODB1 into an ODB2 Honda Civic CX hatch using the CX wiring harness.

I'm reading conflicting stories on how to wire the IAB. Is this correct?

The IAB Pink Blue wire goes to pin into A17 of the ECU
The yellow black wire then wires into positive ignition wiring.

if that is right then I have it hooked up correctly.

Should I feel the IAB open up at 5752RPM?
Does it change the sound of the engine?
Does it offer a big power increase?

 

[posol]

there is an article on this in the swap articles forum.

"putting an obd2 gsr in a 5th gen civic" or something like that...

 

[Grifter]

Well maybe I am missing something here. The article you pointed me to was for an ODB 2 engine into an ODB1 car. My setup is the opposite.

Here is what I have found. Using a multi-meter I connect A17 to the negative lead and the positive lead to +12V IGN. I then race down the highway hitting red line every time. The multi-meter always reads 0 Volts. I then try A17 as the positive lead and ground out the negative lead... this as well reads 0 volts down the highway.


I have read a few other posts that say the IAB is the A26 wire not the A17 wire. My Chilton's manual I bought for the Acura Integra, legend and Vigor is no help.


So I guess the question is what pin is the IAB?

Because it does not appear to be A17. I thought I might be having a problem with my ECU so I bought another one, this time a USDM not the JDM, same result.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[twisted civic]

http://technet.ff-squad.com/

click the appropriate link - obd1 ecu pinout diagram

Very good site for swap stuff, etc, should help you out alot if you browse around a bit.

 

[xj0hnx]

Well, which ECU you're using makes a difference.

 

[Grifter]

its a
37820-P72-A01

but looking at the pinout post above I might have the pin wrong.

the article I have been looking at has the pins labeled differently.

 

[posol]

obd1 or obd2 ecu?

pinouts are in the refence section for both ecus

 

[Grifter]

Its an odb1 ecu, and odb1 engine.

wired with a Civic CX odb2 wiring harness using a frog adapter.


this image
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.92-95.jpg
when i follow the IAB wire back up the frog adapter and hook into the relocated pin with a multimeter the multimeter will only register 2 volts... (with JDM ECU)

The USDM ecu reads 12 volts at all times. even when the car is off.


both ecus are unaffected by the car hitting over 5700 rpm..

What voltage is the IAB, is it only 2 volts to trigger it?
How many hp am I loosing by this not working?
is it better to just drop it and buy the skunk2 intake..

 

[gsrjennie]

i have the same setup like you do. i'm not sure if i hook it up right, but this is what i did: pink/blue to A26 and black to ground. it seems to run fine, but if i'm wrong, then please correct me. plus, i have a question for you; do you know what i'll have to do to the 3 pin connector for the IAC? you know who the obd2 dx motor have a 2 pin and a 3pin, right. but the obd1 b18c only have the 2 pin connector. what did you do to your? thats the only problem i'm having right now. with the 3 pin connector being disconnected, the check light comes on. i check the code, and its code 14 (which is for the IAC). please help if you know. thanks.

 

[Grifter]

Originally posted by gsrjennie@Sep 25 2004, 10:14 PM
i have the same setup like you do. i'm not sure if i hook it up right, but this is what i did: pink/blue to A26 and black to ground. it seems to run fine, but if i'm wrong, then please correct me. plus, i have a question for you; do you know what i'll have to do to the 3 pin connector for the IAC? you know who the obd2 dx motor have a 2 pin and a 3pin, right. but the obd1 b18c only have the 2 pin connector. what did you do to your? thats the only problem i'm having right now. with the 3 pin connector being disconnected, the check light comes on. i check the code, and its code 14 (which is for the IAC). please help if you know. thanks.

[post=394724]Quoted post[/post]​

IACV, you will need the 2 wire plug off the original wiring harness. It should have a green/black and a black wire. Attach the yellow/black wire from the 3 wire connector to the green/black wire on the 2 wire plug. Attach the black/blue wire on the 3 wire connector to the black wire on the 2 wire connector. Now just ignore the orange wire.

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

Thanks.

 

[gsrjennie]

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

Thanks.

[post=394898]Quoted post[/post]​

[/quote]




My hook up seems to run fine. i ask a couple of friends, and they said thats how they did there's, like mine. i guess its ok, cuz i'm keeping up with HB swap too.

 

[Grifter]

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

Thanks.

[post=394898]Quoted post[/post]​

My hook up seems to run fine. i ask a couple of friends, and they said thats how they did there's, like mine. i guess its ok, cuz i'm keeping up with HB swap too.

[post=395062]Quoted post[/post]​

[/quote]

even hooked up wrong the car will run fine, in the article in this website
(https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29813)

For the IAB you will need to move A20 to A17. Since you will be using the OBD2 engine harness and an OBD1 GS-R ECU you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12V switched source. You can get this from the yel/blk wire at the injectors or the IACV.

that says that you should put black to 12volt const. I bet if you were to test it with a multimeter you would find that your setup doesn't work. The IAB is not required just gives you more HP at high RPM and more torque at low RPM

 

[gsrjennie]

If you have the same ODB versions as me I think you to have the IAB wired wrong. Try hooking a multi-meter positive lead to the A26 wire on your ECU and then ground out the negative lead. Take your car down the highway and let me know if the multi-meter ever reads 12 volts.

Thanks.

[post=394898]Quoted post[/post]​

My hook up seems to run fine. i ask a couple of friends, and they said thats how they did there's, like mine. i guess its ok, cuz i'm keeping up with HB swap too.

[post=395062]Quoted post[/post]​

even hooked up wrong the car will run fine, in the article in this website
(https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29813)

For the IAB you will need to move A20 to A17. Since you will be using the OBD2 engine harness and an OBD1 GS-R ECU you will need to cut the black wire at the IAB plug and give it a 12V switched source. You can get this from the yel/blk wire at the injectors or the IACV.

that says that you should put black to 12volt const. I bet if you were to test it with a multimeter you would find that your setup doesn't work. The IAB is not required just gives you more HP at high RPM and more torque at low RPM

[post=395070]Quoted post[/post]​

[/quote]



i don't know, but i think its the other way around. the way he is talking about, its for the setup of 0bd2 into a obd1 car, our is the other way around. plus, i'm using the skunk2 jumper harness, and a upgrade P28 ecu. ok, i'm getting really confuse now. i hate all this obd crap. why didn't honda just stick to one same thing. sign, o'well, i'll test it tomorrow. thanks