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94Civintegra

Member
Hi,
I am completely new to engines and I have no idea what I'm doing.
I have a 94 Honda Civic EX its a 5 speed Vtec
I want to do an engine swap, but I dont know anything about engines, so I went to the internet.
I came across www.importbuilders.com I clicked the block packages, and then I clicked the B18C GSR, I read it and I thought it looked good, and the price looked pretty good too.
Then I clicked head packages and read the "IB Spec" Head Package and it looked good.

Im now thinking of getting the GSR block package, and the IB Spec Head Package. Do you guys think that this would be a smart choice for me? I can bring it in to get the engine swap done for cheap. As far as block and head goes, would you guys say I should go for it, or stay away from it?
Has anyone bought an engine from there, or heard of anyone buying an engine from there?
After I get the engine put in, or before... whatever is easier.... I want to put a turbocharger on it for more HP and TQ, and I like the sound the blow off valve makes. Do you think it would be safe to put a Turbocharger on that block and head? If you think it would be safe, how much PSI do you think would be safe?

Now as a final question: If I have that block/head setup turbo'd to the safest, highest PSI possible.... What cars do you think I would beat in a race?

I would put a sunk2 racing system exhaust (If you can with turbo? Can you?)
I would put a 98+ Type R Transmission
Stage 4 Clutch
I would definetely need new breaks... what ones do you guys recommend?
Do you think I would need some new axles? Like stage 2 or stage 3? What do you recommend
I would put AEM v2 CAI (If you can with turbo... Can I?)
JG Edelbrock Intake Manifold (If I can... Can I?)
A new throttlebody... what do you recommend?

Please let me know how you think this will turn out, what you guys think I should change and/or add, estimated HP and TQ, and estimated 1/4 times.

If you guys could answer me these questions... It would REALLY save me A LOT of time, reading, searching, and most importantly... MONEY!

Thank you so very much guys
 
If you can afford IB go for it.Have them build the whole thing turbo and all,break it in and ship it to you ready to go in and pound on.
 
Thank you
Can you answer any of my other questions about what to put on it besides what IB already does?
Thank you again!

When you say: "If you can afford it" what do you think it will cost?
 
To have them build the motor and then turbo it I am sure you are going to be @ $10k or more no problem.
 
I have friends that said they are capable of doing everything IB can do.
Lets pretend they did it for free.
Now how much do you think it would cost to do whats listed, still buying everything new?

Thank you for answering those questions, could somebody else help me with my other questions about what to put on? If I had to choose between different parts, I would choose the one that would give me more torque, can you guys apply your knowledge of parts and help me to choose what parts to use(knowing I want the one that gives the most TQ)?

Thank you again
 
I'm with them if you can afford it then go with IB if not you can get the same work done elsewhere
 
Originally posted by 94Civintegra@Mar 21 2003, 12:11 AM
Thank you
Any idea what the price difference would be?
Click to expand...

Depends who you have build it. You have Intercrew in Dallas that does great work, IB does great work. Shit, i'm sure more places do great work. Dont expect the same results with your local builder. There is a reason why they charge both nuts for a motor.
 
Originally posted by Domeskilla+Mar 21 2003, 12:26 AM-->
Domeskilla @ Mar 21 2003 said:
94Civintegra
Click to expand...
Domeskilla @ Mar 21 2003 said:
@Mar 21 2003, 12:11 AM
Thank you
Any idea what the price difference would be?
Click to expand...

Depends who you have build it. You have Intercrew in Dallas that does great work, IB does great work. Shit, i'm sure more places do great work. Dont expect the same results with your local builder. There is a reason why they charge both nuts for a motor.
Click to expand...

from what I heard is you can get $200,000 for a testicle ;) if it were actually true I woud sign up in a heart beat, 1 will get the job done as good as two.
 
Haha ... I have 3 nuts so I can afford to give up 2!!!!

I was looking around the IB website and I seen the crated motors section... Is that the same as buying their used block package and buying their new head package at the same time put together? Or is it like a BRAND NEW block and head with all that stuff done?

I was just kidding about the 3 nuts thing by the way...
 
man where do i sighn up i could use another 200,000 dollars. Imagine how much that will help....

Man just slap on a bottle of N20 and it will haul ass.
 
Originally posted by 94Civintegra@Mar 21 2003, 12:52 AM
Look at the dyno of #003a at 16psi.
Can I get that for 8000 dollars? Id be happy with 325HP and 200TQ... can I get THAT for 8000?
Click to expand...

ummm, honestly.. it depends who you know. If you get a b16, and go all out like Jeffie7 did, and spend 7-8k on the MOTOR alone, you might STILL be shy of it. Unless you use used parts. Jeffie7 is making 260-270 (give or take)whp and 175wtq on a t3/t4 setup and JE pistons, Darton sleeves, blah blah.

I dont see you getting that with 8000, unless you get some good deal on used parts. Search for Jeffie7 and look at his posts.. he has posted dyno charts, and parts list and he hasn't hit 300whp and 200wtq on a boosted b16. (id say he has 8k-10k into his)
 
I might be able to find a GSR engine for cheap, like 500 bucks.
I live in the middle of nowhere and the demand for import engines is very very very low. Im almost sure I could, what year should I search for?

Pretending I found the GSR engine for 500 bucks, and I knew somebody that would do all the work free, is it NOW achievable for 8000(safely of course)?

And still be able to put gas station gas into it
 
If your car is 92-95, get a 94-95 GSR, if your car is 96-00, get a 96-00 gsr motor.

Having someone you know do it, unless they are an import specialist, then you are just having joe blow put it together.. hello and welcome to not max power.

Import building and domestic building are 2 different things. I know domestics like the back of my hand, i'm learning imports and their are many differences.

You will need to send it to Golden Eagle or another RESPECTED shop to resleeve it. (Ericks Racing gets a vote of mine). That will cost 1000-1300, depending on what all you get done.

You will need pistons, rods, head job done, valve train, cams, cam gears, tuning (hondata or AEM EMS), turbo manifold, turbo, BOV, waste gate, tubing/piping, exhuast, aftermarket intake manifold, throttle body..

PNP job.. Not anything can do it and do it good. I mean, I can do it, i'll do it for free, but i do NOT guarentee it to do ANY good b/c i dont know what the fuck i'm doing.

You get what you pay for.. free work, from someone who does not know Honda's, gets you just a motor put together and hope it stays. :) Not "dissin" y0 ppl, but its the truth.
 
Thank you, I respect and understand that.
Im just trying to get a feel for the cost without the cost of the labor.
Can somebody give me a guess on that please?
And can some other people that might know something go back to my very first post and answer some of the other questions.

Basically I want to make my civic faster, by A LOT. Id really like to get high 13's low 14's without gutting anything, or blowing anything up, or wrecking anything. I've got about 8000 to do this with. Make it happen guys!

I know I'd like to get high 13's or low 14's... but I have a feeling a low 15 is what im looking at.
Help me guys!
 
you can do a 13 without a turbo .... a well built NA setup will get you to the 13's
 
Well Im going to be daily driving this car, so I'd like to keep it a gas station car, and when I read your Articles it said that a boosted car for daily driving is always better then a N/A car because the N/A car would (using math in the article) need like 15:1 compression ratio.

And if I use boost I can still not completely eat away at my MPG because from what I learned from the boost articles, the more exhaust you have comming out, the more gain your going to see... so I think that means if I drive it normal, I'll get closer to normal MPG, but Ill have the boost when I race. And I believe its a lot cheaper.

Im definetely going to stay with the boost.

Is it possible to get 13's with 8000? If its not, what is possible? And how can I get it?
 
Jason (2 liter EG here on HS) is running, probably mid-low 13's now with his new power (191whp) and prolly costed roughly 8k-9k to do. Hooks up also. Or you can go a different way. He has a ls/vtec, crower stage 3 cams, 11.X aries pistons, eagle rods, blah blah.. I forget the rest :)..

His setup is on slicks, no lsd and in a 5th gen hatch (92-95)..

You might be able to do it for more or less.
 
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