increasing b16 displacement

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dosterschill

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in terms of cost-effectiveness, reliability, and ease of modification, which method would be better for drastically increasing 16 displacement -- swapping a b20 in for the bottom end or boring out the stock block? i realize this thread leaves many loose ends open, but that is due to my curiousity. so feel free... thanks


dosterschill
 
b20. as far as reliability goes, it depends on the condition of the parts and whether the parts are correctly installed. a b16 will never be as big as a b20 with out bore+stroking. since theyre both b-series, ease of modding them shouldnt be too different.
 
I would just get a B20 block, crank and custom rods... For the price of a stroker kit, you could get all that and some...
 
Get the B20. You can't bore a B16 block out to the B20's bore without resleeving it. That gets expensive, but if you have the cash it helps because your sleeves pretty much become bulletproof... but you're looking for cost effectiveness. Swap in a B20 bottom end with new pistons set to the compression ratio you like best, then start building on the head.
 
i was under the impression that under relatively high compression, the b20 fails often. is this true? would i have to resleeve the block in both situations? thanks.

dosterschill
 
the b20 is the easiest way to increse displacement....as far a realability i dont think youll be impresed....i would try to get my hands on a GSR block...it has a factory oil cooler, block gurdle, oil squiters.....i have purchased many gsr oem parts to put on my ls block....and i should bought a gsr block...but to each their own...i would go with the poor mans type r setup rather than the lsv or crv setup.......my 2c.....
 
you wouldn't need to resleeve the B20 because you've already got 2.0L of displacement. if you're looking at increase the displacement anymore i don't think you can resleeve a B20 without major cost, but i'm sure you can probably get a stroker kit for it. if anyone knows otherwise please correct my statement above.

as far as the reliability goes, there is a guy here in SoCal that is running a CRVtec that swears by it. it's a very mild setup. bone stock B20 block, bone stock B16 head with only bolt-ons. he's gone road racing with that setup 4 times without a rebuild and it's his daily driver.
 
hmm... thats impressive. ive also heard that you cant use the 8200 or so rpm redline once you opt for the b20 block. is there any validity to that? also, is i picked up some new pistons, rods, and rings, would that help keep everything functioning properly? thanks again for the info!

dosterschill
 
[Note: i would use a block like the gsr, but the funds simply arnt available...:(]
 
Wow. I've said it a thousand times and I'll say it again- the B20 isn't made of glass. It'll hold up to abuse if you put the engine together correctly- the same that you would with any other engine build. High compression isn't a problem, and boost isn't a problem. Regarding the redline- a B20 will go past 8500 with no problems. On the GSR's oil squirters- most people running large bore GSR blocks remove the oil squirters or just plain have problems getting them to clear. Mine are blocked off.

dosterschill- if you already have your pistons sized for a B16, then you'll want to use a B18 block. You can't use 81mm bore pistons in a B20.
 
firstly, im looking for eventually putting down 250 or so whp.
secondly, thanx for the words of encouragement calesta. its nice to finally hear someone say something positive about the b20. im really looking forward to the project.

dosterschill
 
Yes, you should definitely get new pistons if you're going to put down 250whp all motor. That much power on the B20/VTEC setup can be difficult, so make sure you choose all the right parts and have a good tuner. If you want to make that power with a turbo, just get new forged pistons and tune the boost. 250whp should be a piece of cake with a correctly sized turbo- hell, you could make that on the B16.
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Jan 11 2005, 03:36 AM
Wow. I've said it a thousand times and I'll say it again- the B20 isn't made of glass. It'll hold up to abuse if you put the engine together correctly- the same that you would with any other engine build. High compression isn't a problem, and boost isn't a problem.
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Wow. I've said it a thousand times and I'll say it again. The design of the B20 sleeves are not like other b-series sleeves, the monolithic sleeve design makes them weak, that is a fact. I would never boost a B20 and I wouldn't do a high compression N/A setup either because more than likely the sleeves will crack, even if it's built right with good tuning. You are much better off going with any other b-series block if you serious about making power.
 
Custom billet crankshafts are available for any make (Honda, Nissan, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Porsche, etc.) however leadtimes are 6-8 months for delivery. 100% deposit required. Prices start at $2600.
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No, for the money you'll spend on that you can get an LS block and have it resleeved and bored to 2L.
 
My Votes:

1. Stroke B16.
2. GSR Block
3. LS Block
4. CRV Block

Or best of all........
Forged pistons/rods + GT 28RS Turbo......*mmmmm*....potato......
 
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