Injector dilemma, me pissed!

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Take note of the wire colors at the injector connectors, each one will have 1 wire the same color(power source) and the others will be unique going to the ecu. Write those colors down. The ecu has 3 connectors (harnesses), the large connector is A, the medium size one is connector B, and the small one is C. All 4 injectore wires should be in a row next to each other on the outside edge of the largest connector A, usualy pin numbers 1 3 5 and 7 in a row. You can identify them easily by matching all 4 colors. BTW PR3 is OBD1, and I don't beleive has injector protection diagnostics, so an open circuit may not prevent injector control.

Make sure the connectors dont have any water damage or corrosion, water usualy intrudes an ecu through its connectors.
 
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No its OBD0, the problem is the car is in my parents driveway, and im at my apt, with no car til the GF gets back. I should be back home on tues or wed and ill check out the wires. I really hope its that and its easy to find and fix, cause im pretty sure none of the injectors are firing or it would sputter right? Cause ya i got nothing not even a cough, so its got to be something that has an effect on all of them.
 
It's not at all a complicated system. I hope you can get it too. I think SneakyTouchYourPlace has done a wonderful job giving you all the necessary information. Rep that dude ^_^
 
It's not at all a complicated system. I hope you can get it too. I think SneakyTouchYourPlace has done a wonderful job giving you all the necessary information. Rep that dude ^_^

I will, he has done a good job, ill write this stuff down for when i go check.
 
Shit, is there anything in the distributor that could cause this, cause the car worked on the way there but not when they put it in, would changing from OBD0 dizzy to OBD1 make a difference like that? It was wired in supposedly right. However it barely made it there, it would backfire all the time, and barely idle. Still sounds like an injector thing tho?
 
This is when having a datalogging system would really come in handy.

Idk the answer for you though, bump
 
Ya, like would there be a sensor in the dizzy that makes something not work, it was getting spark.
 
Yes I was saying a cam sensor fault can cause this, that is inside the distributor. If its not wired correctly, injectors wont work.
 
Wow, that would kind of explain it, any way to check this. there was one wire he wasent sure of, but only had one left on the harness. Wouldnt this not throw a code?
 
The car is running OBD0, i was told that an OBD1 dizzy will work. All we did was put an OBD1 dizzy on. That seriously would make my face red if that is the problem.
 
The car is running OBD0, i was told that an OBD1 dizzy will work. All we did was put an OBD1 dizzy on. That seriously would make my face red if that is the problem.

...Thats your problem, you put an OBD0 Dizzy on it and youll be fine. The OBD gens HAVE to match between ECU and dizzy. You cant use an OBDI dizzy with and OBD0 ECU.
 
Im debating, if i should switch to OBD1 completely or go back. Hold on to that dizzy for me tho, is it in good condition?
 
Im debating, if i should switch to OBD1 completely or go back. Hold on to that dizzy for me tho, is it in good condition?

It is, but going all OBDI wouldnt be a bad idea either, all you need is a P30, 4-wire O2 and a jumper harness.
 
Or in other words, spend a lot of money on parts that will make your engine run less efficient. That ecu was built for your engine and you should keep it compatible. I dont see any reason why that distributor wouldnt work unless it was improperly wired up or defective. The only major difference between dizzies is the housing shape, igniter, and wire config. On some the only difference between obd1 and 0 is the added presence of a tdc sensor.
 
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