Intake air temp sensor for b16a1

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shaolinswordstyle

Junior Member
I was just wondering if either the stock d16 or the B16 is supposed to have an IAT sensor. The stock intake tube was not with the car when I got it, so I have no idea. I got a cai intake for a 99 civic si and it fits fine 'cept for the hole for the IAT sensor. Pretty sure theres no plugs left for it, but I just wanted to double check. Every car I've ever had has had one. Thanks for the help.
 
On the b16, the IAT sensor is on the intake runner on the IM. The holes in the CAI are for vacuum lines. On my b18a they go to the purge valve (i think that's what it is called) and to the other thing on the manifold right next to it. Hope this helps
 
ok, cool, thanks for the help, I thought it had to be somewhere. Ok I have another question, The IAC ( I think thats right, Intake Air Control) valve on the back of the intake, the stepping motor that adjusts enginge speed, yeah that thing, is it removable? Will it cause any problems, and if it's removed how do you keep the CEL codes from popping up? The ECU isnt sending any voltage to it like its supposed to so I think those pins are bad on the ECU, It would cost less to remove IAC than to replace ECU.

And one more thing, if the IAC is removable where would I get a block off plate for it?

Thanks Agian!!
 
You have to have the IAC, you need it for the car to idle right, or at all. Just replace it. There are threads on this site that tell you how to do it. If you are swapping a motor into your car, a lot of times those things will not work, and you just have to replace it.
 
The engine idles fine with it totaly unhooked, even starting it when it's really cold. Why doesn't venom, skunk2, edelbrock, ect, ect , have provisions to mount the IAC valve on their intakes? it just smells a little funny is all.
 
I'm pretty sure that the IAC, or Idle Air Control valve, mounts on the back side of the throttle body. By saying that your car idles fine with it unhooked, do you mean that the IAC is completely removed from the vehicle? If it is still on there, and it's not hooked up, you probably will not pass the smog test, since it has to do with the emissions system. It is probably stuck open if your car is running.
 
Come to think of it, I cant remember where the IAC is is bolted down, could have sworn it was on the intake, but now I am unsure, i'll have to look when I get home.

It runs fine with it installed and unhooked, but it has a slight miss at idle, and goes psyco if you try give it more than 1/2 throttle. If you can imagine words into sounds at idle it sounds something like: HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM*pop*pop*HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM*pop*HMMMMMM(ect, ect) pops being the misses. Misses about 20 times/min.

When you hold the throttle steady, it sound something like: BRAP..BRAP..BRAP..BRAP...........and so on. im pretty sure I know what this is,and I dont think think it's related to the IAC valve, however, I could be wrong. Pretty much I just want the IAC code to go away, there are no more codes left except for the occasional TPS code (which explaines the surgeing). Maybe I am thinking the ECU does the wrong thing. For the IAC valve to work, does voltage come from the ECU or To the ECU. In other words does the ECU regulate voltage (+) to the IAC, OR does it regulate resistance to ground (-). I don't know, I hate to be a bother, most of the time I can figure it out myself, but on this one, all of the manuals give very poor direction. And I hate stupid little problems.

Oh, Oh yeah, u said somthing about smog :blink: whats that ;) . He he, Im from the east side, no maditory emisions tests here in VA, we have safety inspections, but if you take it to the right place, you'd be lucky if they even pulled your car in the shop before they slapped the sticker on. Smog, we dont need no stinking smog, we've got trees :D. hehe

Thanks alot,
E
 
Originally posted by shaolinswordstyle@Feb 3 2004, 03:56 PM
Come to think of it, I cant remember where the IAC is is bolted down, could have sworn it was on the intake, but now I am unsure, i'll have to look when I get home.

It runs fine with it installed and unhooked, but it has a slight miss at idle, and goes psyco if you try give it more than 1/2 throttle. If you can imagine words into sounds at idle it sounds something like: HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM*pop*pop*HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM*pop*HMMMMMM(ect, ect) pops being the misses. Misses about 20 times/min.

When you hold the throttle steady, it sound something like: BRAP..BRAP..BRAP..BRAP...........and so on. im pretty sure I know what this is,and I dont think think it's related to the IAC valve, however, I could be wrong. Pretty much I just want the IAC code to go away, there are no more codes left except for the occasional TPS code (which explaines the surgeing). Maybe I am thinking the ECU does the wrong thing. For the IAC valve to work, does voltage come from the ECU or To the ECU. In other words does the ECU regulate voltage (+) to the IAC, OR does it regulate resistance to ground (-). I don't know, I hate to be a bother, most of the time I can figure it out myself, but on this one, all of the manuals give very poor direction. And I hate stupid little problems.

Oh, Oh yeah, u said somthing about smog :blink: whats that ;) . He he, Im from the east side, no maditory emisions tests here in VA, we have safety inspections, but if you take it to the right place, you'd be lucky if they even pulled your car in the shop before they slapped the sticker on. Smog, we dont need no stinking smog, we've got trees :D. hehe

Thanks alot,
E

You're lucky. Here in Northern VA is almost as bad as California with the emissions.
 
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