Intake Manifold

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sidel

Junior Member
i have a '93 del sol si with the d16z in it. i have a friend that's trying to sell me an intake manifold for it. he says it'll just go right in and there won't be any problems. It's from a '98 civic ex. I know that the two cars are run on different systems(obdI, obdII) is he full of crap? Will i need a different computer for my car??? The manifold he wants to give me has "P2K-IPT" on the back of it will this work and what do i need to make it work?????
<<<aDaM>>>
 
The 96+ civic EX intake manifold is the ITR manifold of the single cams. it rules all.

All you have to do it get it from him, and put all your stock sensors on it. They should all match up except the IAT, intake air temp, sensor, because his Is in the manifold where yours should be in the intake. I THINK this is the case, anyway.

Pick it up, it's worth about $30-$50 if it's in good shape.
 
Here's a how to I had saved from another board

Re: Y8 intake manifold on Z6 head - please advise
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make sure u got the 5 speed IM, u need the Y8 fuel rail +end cap + Y8 FPR , u can use ur old injector....u will only need a longer vac. hose for the FPR, there`s no space for the air temp sensor, so make the wire longe and drill a hole on ur intake tube and stick it in...TB bracket won`t fit, u can use ur old one by benting it to the right shape, the Z6 IM brace also doesn`t fit..u need a Y8 one but i couldn`t find it so i didn`t use one. :p, for the pvc there will be no mountaing space so i just let it hanging there...
and the single vac. port on the IM underneth the pvc port needed to be plug off...and make sure u got the IM gasket for Y8....
super easy once u took the old one out....but make sure u release the FP b4 unbolting the fuel rail by loosen the little 10mm service bolt on top of teh fuel filter, and take out the IM brace b4 u lift up the IM by unbolt it under the car oh and the middle nut under the IM is tough to be reach...
teh big coolen hose on the left of the IM will/may be tough to loosen too..so do it slow or u may want to perpare a new one in case it breaks....
sure u will get some bloody nuckle.....>_<

Edited by: Donald125 at: 7/11/02 11:08:05 pm


lets see, there isn't a place for the evap purge to mount to so zip tying it to something on the firewall is just fine. The intake air temp sensor doesn't have a place to mount to on the y8 mani so you'll either need to drill the y8 manifold or drill your intake pipe and mount it there. You can modify your z6 fuel rail (which is a bad idea considering the evil nature of fuel leaks) or use the y8 fuel rail. There will be one vacumn hookup on the y8 manifold that needs capped off. The vacum hookup on the fpr is on the left side of the mani instead of the right so you'll need a longer vacum hose for the y8 manifold. The throttle cable won't work, there are probably a couple different remedies for this, I just took the y8 manifold throttle cable bracket and flipped it upside down. There is a line that runs from the top of the z6 manifold then goes between the middle of the 2 inside runners and plugs into the black box on the back of the block. You'll need to redo the lines for that. Thats all I can think of. Its not nearly as bad as it sounds. Obviously because of the nature of vacum leaks and the amount of modifications to vacum devices/lines, expect to have a vacum leak when you first start the car up. I didn't notice a big gain, just minor differences in the mid range (may have been in my head) and a little difference in the top end. I'm sure with a high rpm cam, you'd notice more of a difference.
 
alright ur advice was good but not good enough there was a servo motor mounted on the back of the d16 manifold. the problem is there is absolutley no place to mount it on the back of the new manifold so yeah.... wasted time thanx ass munch
 
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