Is 91 Si with a swap Cal legal??

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DuffmanIVXX

New Member
What's up fellas? I'm looking to buy a 91 Si with a swapped motor and I wanna know if it's legal in California. It's got a B18c block and a B16 head. The guy told me it only needs a few parts off an Integra to get bar'd. Is this true? Is it even worth the trouble? Any help would be great.
 
This is info I was told by a referee (very few in the state) For a smog referee to bar a B series motor..it needs to be a USDM. If it was offered in your chassis (here in the states) then a JDM motor is fine (but still needs Evap Purge Solenoid and ECU) I've heard of guys getting JDM B swaps certified with a USDM intake manifold and ECU but it's only what I've "heard". I also heard you need to be red flagged in order to even see one. But I personally know guys who set up an appointment numerous times. :shrug2: I do know it depends on what side of the bed the ref woke up on too lol. Once, I saw some shady crap wired swap with a oil dripping' block...it had a certification sticker.

Stock Stock Stock.....then go try and Bar it. Intake, exhaust manifold, ECU, fuel system, etc. Make sure to shave too lol
 
Thanks for the quick response. I just looked at the car, not worth it. On to the next one. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions for you guys. All the cars I've been looking at are swapped, and rarely bar'd. California smog laws suck!!
 
Btw- where in NorCal are you? Know anyone selling a clean hatch? Haha
 
USDM H23 non-VTEC? Most likely the owner will need to smog it. Stay away for non Bar'd JDM swaps....there's a reason they aren't certified. If you are Sacramento or south of Sacramento (all the way to San Diego)... Cops are very knowledgable and will have you pop your hood Ina heartbeat. If you are young...office hate-a-tuner will be even more abrasive... and you'll be towed. I say you wait....be patient...and look for your own USDM swap and clean hatch (I know it's hard to find an unmolested chassis now days). You can get A USDM complete stock swap certified much easier.

Many community colleges have smog referees. Find out of there is one near you and have a chat (in person) with the guy. Then.....you'll know what's up and give him what he wants :thumbsup:
 
One more quick thing, excuse my ignorance, kinda new to this and don't wanna get stuck with something I can't make legal. I'm looking at two hatchbacks now. A 93 with a GSR swap and a 94 with a Bswap. Neither one is bard. The one with the Bswap, the owner said it just needs a stock header and it can be bard. Does that sound right? What do I need to be bard? Intake, sensor, distributor, computer, stock airbox? The 93, owner says he doesnt know what it would need, but it's $1000 cheaper. Both are pretty much equal otherwise, interior, suspension, etc. again, any info would be much appreciated.
 
Please....Try to re read my other posts.

USDM B-series motor as it came from the factory (It WILL have a number at the end of the code...B18C1, B18B1), no hybrid frankensteins, USDM stock Intake Manifold, STOCK ECU (rectangular shaped...JDM are square... and NO chipped ECU's), OEM air box and exhaust manifold.. STOCK STOCK STOCK

Don't let some guy (thats trying to sell you a car) tell you "all it needs" Please don't let a seller be your source of info...they could be right but could be shady as hell too.

Once again.....I strongly suggest you find a ref and talk to him in person. I think you are putting the cart before the horse. (sort to speak). Plus.....you may buy a huge mess when purchasing someone else's handy work.
 
....Once again.....I strongly suggest you find a ref and talk to him in person. I think you are putting the cart before the horse. (sort to speak). Plus.....you may buy a huge mess when purchasing someone else's handy work.

Buy something stock and do it yourself.
This is experience talking above and advice I fully agree with.

I had the time to do research when I did my swap. Had a daily driver and did about 2 years of research before making the final decisions. Not suggesting you take 2 years to figure it out - that's just what I did. Buy a stock car in good shape, get it paid for. Then, build it.

My swap ended up a JDM DOHC ZC engine in a domestic 1991 civic hatchback. Plenty to learn and I'm no beginner when it comes to performance builds, etc. But was new to Honda's.

I can tell you CAFROG has done a few swaps as there are threads on this site to bear that out. Not sure about autox 89 dx, but by his advice, he's got some experience somewhere.

Buying a previously swapped ride, you never know what you're getting, and it could be an abortion. It takes experience to know what to look for and even then there is risk in the unknown.

My hatch was owned by some punk that butchered it before I got it - I didn't know - had no clue. I found out later, wiring was AFU, missing parts, missing screws everywhere, body panels, fender liners. It took a couple of years and $ at the dealer parts counter to get it cleaned up. Wiring had some DIY alarm system that was removed before I got the car and a DIY stereo installation that was also removed. Bull$h!t splices under the hood on radiator fans, behind headlights, tail lights - nothing soldered. A phuking mess.

Chances are if it's built, it's been abused - there is no way of knowing outside of word of mouth or if it smokes or knocks. Know way of knowing how long it's going to run.

Buy a stock car, with no rust, that's not been butchered. Research what you want, plan it to include $, buy used engine, build engine, install engine, exhaust, etc.

When you build a Frankenstein, plan on working on it yourself. The best way to do that is to have built it yourself. I wouldn't entertain taking mine in to shop for anything but alignment and a new set of tires - glass replacement and maybe tint, alarm installation and service. They ain't going under the hood - that's my world. :)
 
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