is this true about LS/VTEC??

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CRseX84

Senior Member
hey i am debating on what swap i want to do for my CRX eather a b18 high compression, or a LS.VTEC. and i was surfin the web for info, and i found this sight <_<
http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html
check it out he is talkn bout how LS/VTEC is a very bad idea. can anyone tell me if he has a point about what he is talkn bout?? thanks
 
look if you don't constantly take care of your LS Vtec then yes you will have these problems...one of my customers has a LS vtec and it is all fucked up cause he went the cheap route...on the other hand i know someone that has Ls vtec and EVERYDAY he checks to make sure everything is running at its best. he doesn't go any cheap route. buys only the best shit and uses on the top quality stuff...

LS Vtec is a good set up if you can afford the maintance. otherwise stick to a B16a.

peace
Always Faded
 
what do u got to check every day just the belts and the fluids?? what else can u check to make sure the pistons are ok and shit? like the guy was talkn bout the pistons slappin and worping the walls or even blowing out. how do u make sure that dont happen? i think im gona get like some TODA pistons that will have aournd 11:1 compression, so i think those are a quality pair. waht do u think? what kind does ur boy have? thanks bro..
 
before i say anything, check my sig....i know what i am saying...
no one HAS EVER swapped motors nor built a LS/VTEC for me...i do everything myself.

now for my comment on this topic:

alwaysfaded, you are right, and i agree with you, BUT
, the cheap way is not always the wrong way.

A stock LS/VTEC WILL BEAT a B16A, (stock LS/VTEC= Bone stock B18A/B block + bone stock VTEC head)
(i had a stock LS/VTEC in my 92 teg with a chipped P72 ecu (redline at 8700), and i easily beat civic Hatches with B16A swaps)
15.3 on the 1/4 mile, with stage 3 clutch


I had a bone stock LS/VTEC in my 92 civic hatch, and i ran 15.01 with a LS ecu and a APEX VTEC controler,
-then with the P30 ECU and thinner head gasket, i ran 14.7.....
-then after i swapped out pistons (for CTR pistons), and milled head, STR block guard, and got 2001 ITR CAMS, Chipped P72 ECU and i ran 14.02 with a brand new Dealer clutch.
-I then got a full 2.5' exhaust (i had stock exhaust all along), new stage 3 clutch, lighten flywheel, and headers, then i finally hit my goal of 13's........13.8. (i might have slips...i usually save them all)

i sold the car and moved to Florida, and up till this day the guy who bought it has no problems...and this makes it a year since the motor was completed. and he street race the hatch all the time (he changes oil frequently, and he takes it for a tune up monthly due to my advise)

with all the work i put into this LS/VTEC, NO regular LS motor with similar mods can get a hatch with interior, in the 13's........

and i honestly never spend that much money...i bought most of my stuff on superhonda, and ebay, and partstrader from private sellers.......

u want the reward of being fast, be prepared to put the work and time in....LS/VTEC all the way..


P.S...i am building on for my current TEG
 
HOLY SHIT DOG thats frickn fast!! thats a dope ride. :worthy: so u put like under 2000 into the motor? geese. thanks alot man it helps alot.
 
Originally posted by jiahanhao@Oct 17 2003, 12:49 PM
I honestly just suggest building a b16, bore and sleeve to your heart's content... it's a lot more reliable than LS/VTEC
Click to expand...

Any proof?

Boring and sleeving a B16 is going to cost more for lesser results.
 
Originally posted by lsvtec+Oct 17 2003, 01:53 PM-->
lsvtec @ Oct 17 2003 said:
jiahanhao
Click to expand...
lsvtec @ Oct 17 2003 said:
@Oct 17 2003, 12:49 PM
I honestly just suggest building a b16, bore and sleeve to your heart's content... it's a lot more reliable than LS/VTEC
Click to expand...

Any proof?

Boring and sleeving a B16 is going to cost more for lesser results.
Click to expand...

only thing good on a B16A for N/A use is the head.....

waste of money to bore it out....when u can get a B18C1/5.....
 
that is true...but

u are still within the HONDA box, you need to step out and realize that HIGH REV's is NEVER good for an engine....and if an engine is perfectly built for HIGH reving, but is not creating any torque or power, that is not good in my book.

the B16A is a good engine in compare to OTHER 1.6L motors, it creats more power than the other 1600cc motors on the market. BUT in general, it is not the motor to start with.

more torque is better....torque is what you feel, HP is what it builds up to..
 
LSVTEC works fine if built right, it will last, and yes to do it right the first time it can get a little pricey.

As far as potential goes, shit I guess it depends on weight to power like everything else.

But I only used a 1.6 to run my times in the hatch...still not too shabby for a stock longblock b16
 
Originally posted by jiahanhao@Oct 17 2003, 12:58 PM
"The b18a/b was not made to rev over 7000 r.p.m's so it has poor lubrication, bad rod bolts, rods, oil and water pumps, and piston valve relief’s. You can fix all these problems, as you can install vtec block oil squirters for lubricating the rods and piston. This helps to save the pistons, rods and bearings at high rpm's. You can install ARP rod bolts. And get upgraded rods or shot-peined. Also some vtec pistons are recommended. "

http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/lsvtec.html

You gotta make sure LS/VTEC is done right... I suppose the same goes for boring/sleeving tho...

I'm also going to go back to the age old argument... bad rod ratio on the LS/VTEC
Click to expand...

What r/s arguement? It doesn't exist. The difference in side loading from GSR to LS rotating assembly is ~1%.

Step right up folks cause here we go with someone that has no grasp of what he is talking about quoting other morons that were equally clueless.

The b18a/b was not made to rev over 7000 r.p.m's so it has poor lubrication, bad rod bolts, rods, oil and water pumps, and piston valve relief’s. You can fix all these problems, as you can install vtec block oil squirters for lubricating the rods and piston. This helps to save the pistons, rods and bearings at high rpm's. You can install ARP rod bolts. And get upgraded rods or shot-peined. Also some vtec pistons are recommended.
Click to expand...

The standard glob of worthless bullshit that is usually posted. Poor lubrication? Nope, infact it lubricates exactly the way the GSR does. So what about the oil squirters you say? Not for lubrication you fool. They are for cooling and completely unnecessary with forged internals (cast ones will survive just fine without them as well). Sorry, but the bearings are not lubricated by the squirters. ARP rod bolts are a good idea and cheap insurance but I had LS rods and bolts stand up fine. Do you have any proof for any of this tripe or are you simply regurgitating it the way every other fool does?
 
I'm going to stop posting, because I just realized that I am regurgitating what people have been telling me for years, and now that I think about it... since others have experience with building their LS/VTECs.... I'm going to defer to them... my apologies go out to LSVTEC and Chingro...
 
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