is this true

[97civic]

ok i was thinking of getting some other motor than what i have in my civic but this dude told me that if i tore appart my block (d 16) and sleeved it then threw some quality pistons in that my block could hold up to some serious psi is this true or is this dude high on crack thanks for the help (he said some thing like 25 psi i think (unless this is around normal my brain is fried and i can't think) all i know is that is was something very higher than what i thought

 

[posol]

anything sleeved will hold good power...

but thats 1000 for work, 1000 for rods/pistons/bearings/gaskets

and for 2 grand, you are half way to a gsr swap.

and then, there's the d-series tranny that sucks balls.

 

[97civic]

well i guess i should just go with my first instinct and get some other motor cause that seems like alot of work (eve though swapping a d16 auto for a gsr manual is alot of work too) and i have to replace my tranny cause it's an auto and it's the cvt tranny cause i have the hx civic

 

[posol]

oh, shit i thoguth you had the EX ... yeahy man, def swap that econo bs motor out of there

 

[simplyfast]

just swap the tranny out, and then put some good time in towards the d series.

a lot of power can come out of the d series engine...it has less rotating mass on the top, a mean ass stroke, and the option of droppin a vtec head on. you can get an hf exhaust manifold and peice together a turbo kit from a junkyard for really cheap. just by doing that, runnin 8psi you can put down strong numbers for relatively cheap.

a b series swap is not a must for all civics.

 

[exospeed*com]

Originally posted by 97civic@Dec 13 2003, 01:45 PM
ok i was thinking of getting some other motor than what i have in my civic but this dude told me that if i tore appart my block (d 16) and sleeved it then threw some quality pistons in that my block could hold up to some serious psi is this true or is this dude high on crack thanks for the help (he said some thing like 25 psi i think (unless this is around normal my brain is fried and i can't think) all i know is that is was something very higher than what i thought

As long as you have the proper fuel and timing tuning, you can make good power with any motor. I have seen a stock d16z6 boosting 19lbs on stock bottom end. Of course its only boosting this much at the track, but it was doing 11.8's with a stock motor and basic Rev Hard Turbo kit.
The tuning is on DFI so its finely tuned for that much boost.

For the average setup, its recommended to beef up the bottom end and provide proper fuel by increasing the injector flow rate.

once you sleeve a motor, you are strengtening the cylinder walls with thicker sleeves. you can see the different stages available for blocks on our site. so you can compare the costs on the different upgrade levels.

A stage 4 fully built block is what we put on Full race setups and also street setups. stage 4 sleeved block can handle 38lbs of boost on one of our LS/VTEC setups. its currently doing 9.6's in an Integra body right now.


As far as D-series trannies, they are good enough for boost. almost all of the 10/11 sec sohc turbo setups I know of are using stock transmissions.

 

[simplyfast]

there is no need to put new rods in, unless the factory units have been stretched too far. if they are within spec, then just have them bead blasted and polished. that will add much strength to the rod and allow you to run a healthy amount of boost. you dont need special pistons, oem replacements will work just fine. itm makes quality aftermarket pieces and they come with wrist pin/rings out the box. if you really feel the need of strengthening the block you can either install a block guard before you do final machining on the block or post it. both are cheap methods and both will provide ample support for daily driving use.
if you have some time with a butterfly grinder, and have the balls, id suggest doin mild work on the head. simply clean the ports out, flatten the floor, and match them to the IM and EM. some factory build tips for the valve train would be to have the springs heated to make them stiffer, have the valves re-cut, and have a 5 angle cut put into your valve seats. a basic r&r of the head would also be a smart idea.
hell, id just buy another d series engine and slowly rebuild it over time. by goin that way you would save yourself downtime. plus, used d series arent expensive. you can easily pick up a vtec d series for no more than $300 including axles.

most important tho is to have good machine work done and have the bottom rotating assembly re-balanced to 7500-8000rpm's. this will save wear n tear on the rods and bearings, giving you more life out of your engine.

 

[SolidDreamz]

you can get an hf exhaust manifold and peice together a turbo kit from a junkyard for really cheap


What year? crx,civic? manifold. What kinda turbo would match up to it?