By: Adam Pilchak
B18C5 intake manifold onto a JDM B16A SiR2
The Integra Type R intake manifold is designed to utilize high-end power. It combines a large, high volume plenum with short intake runners to produce high end HP and torque. This item can be acquired from any Acura dealership with the part # 17100-P73-A00, and is a great combination with CTR or ITR camshafts and a header, to increase overall airflow.
Start by removing the b16 intake manifold from your engine. This can be accomplished by removing the 10 nuts that hold it to the cylinder head. You also need to remove the intake manifold support bracket; this is a black mount underneath the IM. There are three bolts holding that to the block, and two holding it to the IM. The studs that the bolts thread onto remain in the head. Remove the idle speed control from the rear of the b16 IM. Then remove the throttle body from the b16 intake manifold, unless you have another throttle body in mind that you were going to use. To remove the TB, there are 4 nuts, the studs that these screw onto will also remain in the IM. Remove the fuel rail and injectors from the b16 IM, as well as any other hoses that are clamped to it. To remove the injectors, there is a little clip at the base of the grey plastic housing, I used a pointy pick to pry it out on one side, then went to the other and finally removed it. Once everything was off the b16 IM, I started to take the studs out that held in the fuel rail and throttle body. I had a special attachment that went onto my socket wrench that pulled these out easily, but I assume that vice grips (not on the threaded part) would work too. So I put the studs in the ITR IM using the same tool, try your vice grips again. Once the studs were in place, I bolted the IM back onto the head. I ran into a problem with the idle speed control. You will most likely need an idle speed control from a d16. I used the one that came off my d16z6. Both mounting holes from the b16 idle speed control don’t line up. I suppose you could mount it with only one, but that’s ghetto. Get yourself the proper one. As far as using the IM support bracket, you can slot the holes and mount it because it sits like a 1/4-1/2" lower with the ITR intake manifold, or just remove it all together. Then I cleaned the throttle body out and made sure the blade wasn’t sticking, and then bolted the TB back into position. If your TB doesn’t have a MAP sensor, get one. Run a hose from a MAP sensor, I mounted mine on the firewall, to the manifold vacuum port on the TB. There is a temp sensor on the JDM b16a2 intake manifold; it is a white sensor that is on the third from the left intake runner. I ran into another problem here. The Fuel pressure regulator on the b16a2 fuel rail sits right in the way of this sensor, so you can’t connect the harness to it. I decided to use the fuel rail from a 95 Integra GS-R. The FPR is all the way to the right side, so we won’t have any issues with that. The stock IM has three plastic grommets between the fuel rail and the actual IM (be careful not to lose these when you take the fuel rail off). These grommets act as an insulator between the fuel rail and IM; you can choose to keep them and modify them, or to remove them. When you try to put the fuel rail in with the grommets in, it sits too high and the injectors aren’t all the way down. So you can shave the grommets down about half way, using either a grinding wheel or any other method you see fit, but be careful not to take your fingers off on a wheel, they are SMALL. If you chose not to shave them down, you will notice that you can’t tighten the nuts down far enough because the thread runs out on the stud, just put the grommets that you didn’t use on top of the fuel rail and use them as a “washer†of some sorts. I chose to use the Fuel Pressure Regulator from my d16z6 because the connectors were in a more feasible location than the ones from the b16a2. I did need to run new hose though, just make sure if you need to that it is the same diameter. With the fuel rail assembled and bolted onto the intake manifold it came time to reconnect the accelerator cable. The bracket and accelerator cable from the d16 didn’t work with the ITR manifold, and the accelerator cable was cut on the b16a2, so I wound up ordering an ITR accelerator cable and bracket to make it all work. Now that everything is bolted down, its time to reconnect all the hoses, they are pretty much self-explanatory as everything goes to pretty much the same spot as on the old IM. You are now good to go and have an extra 8 wheel horse power (not proven yet) for your efforts.
*email me with any questions or corrections at: pills@hondaswap.com
B18C5 intake manifold onto a JDM B16A SiR2
The Integra Type R intake manifold is designed to utilize high-end power. It combines a large, high volume plenum with short intake runners to produce high end HP and torque. This item can be acquired from any Acura dealership with the part # 17100-P73-A00, and is a great combination with CTR or ITR camshafts and a header, to increase overall airflow.
Start by removing the b16 intake manifold from your engine. This can be accomplished by removing the 10 nuts that hold it to the cylinder head. You also need to remove the intake manifold support bracket; this is a black mount underneath the IM. There are three bolts holding that to the block, and two holding it to the IM. The studs that the bolts thread onto remain in the head. Remove the idle speed control from the rear of the b16 IM. Then remove the throttle body from the b16 intake manifold, unless you have another throttle body in mind that you were going to use. To remove the TB, there are 4 nuts, the studs that these screw onto will also remain in the IM. Remove the fuel rail and injectors from the b16 IM, as well as any other hoses that are clamped to it. To remove the injectors, there is a little clip at the base of the grey plastic housing, I used a pointy pick to pry it out on one side, then went to the other and finally removed it. Once everything was off the b16 IM, I started to take the studs out that held in the fuel rail and throttle body. I had a special attachment that went onto my socket wrench that pulled these out easily, but I assume that vice grips (not on the threaded part) would work too. So I put the studs in the ITR IM using the same tool, try your vice grips again. Once the studs were in place, I bolted the IM back onto the head. I ran into a problem with the idle speed control. You will most likely need an idle speed control from a d16. I used the one that came off my d16z6. Both mounting holes from the b16 idle speed control don’t line up. I suppose you could mount it with only one, but that’s ghetto. Get yourself the proper one. As far as using the IM support bracket, you can slot the holes and mount it because it sits like a 1/4-1/2" lower with the ITR intake manifold, or just remove it all together. Then I cleaned the throttle body out and made sure the blade wasn’t sticking, and then bolted the TB back into position. If your TB doesn’t have a MAP sensor, get one. Run a hose from a MAP sensor, I mounted mine on the firewall, to the manifold vacuum port on the TB. There is a temp sensor on the JDM b16a2 intake manifold; it is a white sensor that is on the third from the left intake runner. I ran into another problem here. The Fuel pressure regulator on the b16a2 fuel rail sits right in the way of this sensor, so you can’t connect the harness to it. I decided to use the fuel rail from a 95 Integra GS-R. The FPR is all the way to the right side, so we won’t have any issues with that. The stock IM has three plastic grommets between the fuel rail and the actual IM (be careful not to lose these when you take the fuel rail off). These grommets act as an insulator between the fuel rail and IM; you can choose to keep them and modify them, or to remove them. When you try to put the fuel rail in with the grommets in, it sits too high and the injectors aren’t all the way down. So you can shave the grommets down about half way, using either a grinding wheel or any other method you see fit, but be careful not to take your fingers off on a wheel, they are SMALL. If you chose not to shave them down, you will notice that you can’t tighten the nuts down far enough because the thread runs out on the stud, just put the grommets that you didn’t use on top of the fuel rail and use them as a “washer†of some sorts. I chose to use the Fuel Pressure Regulator from my d16z6 because the connectors were in a more feasible location than the ones from the b16a2. I did need to run new hose though, just make sure if you need to that it is the same diameter. With the fuel rail assembled and bolted onto the intake manifold it came time to reconnect the accelerator cable. The bracket and accelerator cable from the d16 didn’t work with the ITR manifold, and the accelerator cable was cut on the b16a2, so I wound up ordering an ITR accelerator cable and bracket to make it all work. Now that everything is bolted down, its time to reconnect all the hoses, they are pretty much self-explanatory as everything goes to pretty much the same spot as on the old IM. You are now good to go and have an extra 8 wheel horse power (not proven yet) for your efforts.
*email me with any questions or corrections at: pills@hondaswap.com