Ok, so 2 weeks ago I ripped the d16 out of my civic and mounted a JDM b16 (b16 sirII? - it has b16a2 stamped on the block) that i got from jdmsource.ca. The car itself is a US car (in mph, not kmph) that i got cheap cuz it had lots of mileage on it. Now, the b16 runs but wont idle. Seems like it doesnt get any gas when i try to rev it up - it sucks air but thats all.
What i needed / have done:
- Rear motor mount.
- obd2b-obd1 ecu conversion harness from rywire
- custom a/c & power steering hoses (ends were different, correct ends came on motor)
- Extend wiring for coolant temp sensor
- Change connector for alternator
- Axles and linkage
- changed injector ends (instead of changing the injectors - this might have been a really dumb move, but i didnt know until after the fact that the d series injectors should have fit)
- alternator, distributor, a/c compressor, P/S pump all came on the motor.
- changed timing belt and cam/crank seals
- New oil filter
- checked/cleaned plugs - ok
- replaced faulty knock sensor ($160 cdn from honda :|) and coolant temp sensor
- added a wire into the distributor for the crank sensor (i think thats what it was for)
I think thats about all. oh wait,
- changed coil in distributor after tracing wires for 4 hours, then realized the coil was shot and thats why it wouldnt run :S
Another thing that it does is the rad fan comes on as soon as i turn on the key. Now I noticed reading thru the pages that some cars need to do a 1-wire to 4-wire change for the o2 sensor. My question (and it may be a dumb one) - do I need to make this change and where is this sensor? Is it the one in the exhaust pipe?
Also, I haven't had a chance to check all the vacuum hoses. I'm not even sure if I have them all correct. The MAP sensor is one that has a bunch of hoses in it and isnt part of the throttle body. If someone has good pics of how they should be run, please post it or pm me.
There has also been some debate about the problem being in the fuel rail / injectors but the injectors have power and appear to be firing. I will double check that i have the wiring going to the right injectors, but i'm pretty sure its right.
When it is running, I have to keep the pedal slighty pressed to keep it going. It sputters and coughs quite a bit. If i rev it up slowly or feather the gas i can get the rpms up (havent tried to go higher than 4000rpm) but when i stomp on it (or actually open the throttle by hand) it sucks a lot of air and pretty well dies. If i let off the gas at this point, it goes back to running like ass. Once its warm, it will idle at about 4500rpm. Since it won't idle, i haven't set the timing but it sounds pretty damn close. and i dont think its missing.
The CEL is on, but doing the jumper thing, I get no codes. Unless I didn't reset it properly. But thats how i determined the temp sensor was shot. I get the same results with both the obd1 and obd2b ecu. I am at a loss. I will be checking the integrity of the vacuum lines this after noon, and I may possibly pull the fuel rail off and check it out.
I'm floored. I can't think of anything else that would make it run so badly. Sharing a car with my gf sucks rocks. Please help me.
Dave.
What i needed / have done:
- Rear motor mount.
- obd2b-obd1 ecu conversion harness from rywire
- custom a/c & power steering hoses (ends were different, correct ends came on motor)
- Extend wiring for coolant temp sensor
- Change connector for alternator
- Axles and linkage
- changed injector ends (instead of changing the injectors - this might have been a really dumb move, but i didnt know until after the fact that the d series injectors should have fit)
- alternator, distributor, a/c compressor, P/S pump all came on the motor.
- changed timing belt and cam/crank seals
- New oil filter
- checked/cleaned plugs - ok
- replaced faulty knock sensor ($160 cdn from honda :|) and coolant temp sensor
- added a wire into the distributor for the crank sensor (i think thats what it was for)
I think thats about all. oh wait,
- changed coil in distributor after tracing wires for 4 hours, then realized the coil was shot and thats why it wouldnt run :S
Another thing that it does is the rad fan comes on as soon as i turn on the key. Now I noticed reading thru the pages that some cars need to do a 1-wire to 4-wire change for the o2 sensor. My question (and it may be a dumb one) - do I need to make this change and where is this sensor? Is it the one in the exhaust pipe?
Also, I haven't had a chance to check all the vacuum hoses. I'm not even sure if I have them all correct. The MAP sensor is one that has a bunch of hoses in it and isnt part of the throttle body. If someone has good pics of how they should be run, please post it or pm me.
There has also been some debate about the problem being in the fuel rail / injectors but the injectors have power and appear to be firing. I will double check that i have the wiring going to the right injectors, but i'm pretty sure its right.
When it is running, I have to keep the pedal slighty pressed to keep it going. It sputters and coughs quite a bit. If i rev it up slowly or feather the gas i can get the rpms up (havent tried to go higher than 4000rpm) but when i stomp on it (or actually open the throttle by hand) it sucks a lot of air and pretty well dies. If i let off the gas at this point, it goes back to running like ass. Once its warm, it will idle at about 4500rpm. Since it won't idle, i haven't set the timing but it sounds pretty damn close. and i dont think its missing.
The CEL is on, but doing the jumper thing, I get no codes. Unless I didn't reset it properly. But thats how i determined the temp sensor was shot. I get the same results with both the obd1 and obd2b ecu. I am at a loss. I will be checking the integrity of the vacuum lines this after noon, and I may possibly pull the fuel rail off and check it out.
I'm floored. I can't think of anything else that would make it run so badly. Sharing a car with my gf sucks rocks. Please help me.
Dave.
