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JDM B16 reverse wiring delemia into USDM EG

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by CAFROG, Apr 12, 2009.

  1. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    I just received my JDM B16 and have found that the wiring seems to be reversed (at least a few of the plugs if not all of them) I took all the wire loom off and haven't done any more on it since (any advise beyond labeling the wires and extending/shortening as needed?).

    I got the clutch/flywheel in and started to do the timing belt/water pump but can't get the stupid harmonic balancer off (120 psi impact didn't budge it). I went to a local shop and bought a "special tool" to grip the balancer and allow you to get the socket on while holding the balancer in place It didn't fit and said it fits "most Honda/Acura motors" I believe it is for pre 1990 motors (45mm??) and I think I need the 50mm tool (which I can't find in my town) I even tried to use a rubber strap wrench (which was a joke) and I don't have access to a 3/4 impact (not even sure it would work)

    I'm pissed and venting so sorry about the ramble.

    Any sound advise will be greatly appreciated (on the wiring and the stupid bolt on the harmonic balancer). I wont be able to touch the swap until Monday for limited time. I will be doing this swap until the end of time at this rate. My LS swap was plug and chug with no problems with any of the installation adn replacement of parts

    :(
     
  2. 93y7

    93y7 New Member

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    Use the wiring harness from the car you are putting it in. O2 sensor and I believe the intake air tEmP sensor wiring need to be extended. Try a friends impact on the crank pulley. Had the same issues
     
  3. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    But the motor in it ia an LS. I know I could use most of it but what about the VTEC wiring too? O2 sensor and temp sensor as well? So I just worry about those wires?

    The crank pulley is a pain. I talked to my dad's good friend who builds hot rods with my dad and is a mechanic. He told me that I could stick a bar or long screwdriver throught the hole for the starter and put it through one of the holes on my lightened fly wheel to hold the crank still while a friend uses a breaker bar to bust the crank bolt loose from the pulley. It sounds a little sketchy with all the strain on the transmission case but he said he's done it dozens of times. He also has a 3/4" impact but he said that probably wont bust the bolt loose. I will have to result to using a screw driver if I can't find a 50mm crank poulley removal tool on Monday.

    Anyone know someone with an OBD1 B16 USDM engine wiring harness they'd like to sell? (94-95 delsol VTEC)
     
  4. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    a 3/4" impact will very likely do the job. I've never seen one with a torque rating lower than 800ft.lbs. and that was a cheapie one. Most will be over 1000. you could always buy this online
    Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 648796 Honda Crankcase Pulley Removal Tool: Home Improvement
    it's pretty useful, especially if you do your own maintenance (timing belts, water pumps, head gaskets, cams, cam gears, valves, valve springs, valve seals, etc. all require this pulley coming off.)

    as for the wiring, that's very simple, just depin the connectors and swap them, or cut/solder them to their correct locations.
     
  5. 93y7

    93y7 New Member

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    what kind of car is it in??? if its an integra use thand lookup the pins for vtec and run them accordingly. i put my jdm b16a into an eg coupe. i just used my single cam wiring harness and ran the knock sensor and vtec and extended the other wires
     
  6. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    My car is a 92 si eg hatch. Vtec is wired from engine bay to kick panel but I have an LS in it right now (don't have my old wiring harness and don't want to chop up the existing wiring harness either). I seee the tool for pulling the crank pulley. I bought one from a place in my town but it didn't fit. I believe it was 45mm and I need 50mm (45mm is pre '90 and 50mm is '90 and above).

    I think I'm just going to solder them together and make it work (but I think it'll be pretty time consuming). Too many people on here "HEAR" that the JDM swap is plug and play....and they write about the ease of installation on this site. B-O-L-O-G-N-E

    I need to do the swap over my spring break form work so ordering one
     
  7. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    so ordering one online is not an option (plus its about $40+ after shipping for a two minute job that wont need to be done for tens of thousands of miles). I think I'm going to try a 3/4" impact and if that don't work, I'll hold the flywheel while my buddy breaks the bolt loose.

    This is much more of a pain then the LS swap (I did it in 7 hours with a friend)
     
  8. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    The JDM swaps/engines themselves are plug and play. It should be obvious that the wire is not since the JDM cars are RHD. The rule of thumb is to ALWAYS use the harness that came out of the car the engine is going into. Obvious you can use other harnesses but no harness will make a swap easier than the car's original harness.

    It sucks that you don't have your original harness because both vtec wires were already there and all you would have needed to wire was the knock sensor.
     
  9. D16SiHatch

    D16SiHatch New Member

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    try using a chain wrench to break the crank pulley loose. i've used this method a few times now and it hasn't failed me yet.
     
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