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JDM B18C GSR smoking..long winded..

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by 97DXcoupe, Jun 25, 2008.

  1. 97DXcoupe

    97DXcoupe GSR Swapped/Gutted

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    ok well as some of you know, i swapped in a JDM GSR from Hmotorsonline into my Ek coupe a few months back and had issues with vibrations.. i did solve that.. now i have an issue with the motor smoking pretty severly..

    it seems to be fine just driving it around gently.. but if i push on it a little higher into the RPM range (vtec or above) it blows a pretty good blueish cloud behind me.

    ive pushed on the motor pretty good, hell.. ive had some good runs in the car and a few 140mph pulls.

    ever since i dropped it in i kept smelling a hot oil/metal smell from the get go.. a smell similar to that of a newly installed header. well, once the header had been on for awhile, it still smelled and now i got a nice burned oil smell and cloud being left behind me.

    My question is this... is there a way to check wether its the head or the block thats bad without pulling the head off the car?

    the motor once had a shitty tune done to it on a stock DX fuel pump on stock cams.
    then it had a CTR intake cam put on and still ran on the stock pump.. and now i have a walhbro 255 pump on it and a 3 pull dyno tune (shitty huh? LOL) so the fuel is at least close to right.

    im already thinking about dropping in a full skunk2 valve train package (valves, springs, retainers, sk2 pro1+ cams, cam gears) and a mild PnP. but if the head is fine, then im not gonna worry about it.

    if its the block, then im thinking about building it for boost after i sell either my crx or one of my integra's.

    basically to answer some of the questions i know some of you are going to ask.. My budget for this fix is 2500, my current power goal is/was 220. its already dynod at 180whp b4 most of the work has been done, and just redynoed at 193whp with Hytech/Rage Tri-Y header, CTR cams, pump, whale penis intake, full 2.5 ApexI exhaust w/ 2.5" testpipe and flanges, AEM fuel rail and FPR, 68mm TB, Skunk2 Intake Mani, CTR N1 crank pully, Fidanza 7.5 lb Race Flywheel, Exedy stage 2 clutch, a/c and p/s delete, ... think thats everything.. oh and 92 octane and a bottle of octane booster.

    im thinking with my budget, going boost is not gonna be the right option..im happy with as fast as it is right now, but a little bit more (to beat that R32 i lost to the other day) would be nice. everyone on here wants to tell me that 225 with my setup wont happen unless god comes down and tunes my car himself and i sell my soul to the devil in trade for hellish upgrades... sorry.. ive seen 220 whp civics not boosted.. it CAN happen. with cams, valvetrain upgrade, good tune, and efficient add ons.. it IS do-able.


    anyways, any input to how i can figure out what needs to be fixed first would be greatly appreciated.. i just cant seem to get any answer locally right now. everyone tells me to do compression and leak down test.. but i dont think that will tell me which one is needing rebuilding or if its even just a head gasket.

    which reminds me.. my coolant was nice and green for awhile, and now in the last 2 months its been kinda orange/dark green... wtf? making me think the head gasket has a leak or cracked head when i was runnin lean. the tuner that tuned my car BEFORE putting in the fuel pump (idiots) told me that i may have burned up a valve from it running lean while on the dyno doing baseline tests.:eek:
     
  2. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    run a compression and leakdown test...
    the bluish smoke is burning oil..and if its when your pushing then it sounds like its the rings that are shitty
    if you dont want to run those tests then pull the head,
     
  3. 97DXcoupe

    97DXcoupe GSR Swapped/Gutted

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    i was going to run the tests anyways, just to be sure. but from what i understand, it only tells if there is some sort of bypass/leak. it wont tell me if its the head gasket, cracked head, bad valves, or bad rings.. so i was trying to see if there is anything i can do WITHOUT pulling the head, i dont have the time to let this car sit and wait on parts for 2 weeks plus 3 weeks more for a shop to finish the work. i dont have another car to drive at the moment other then a completely sanded CRX with a busted windshield and unfinished body work.. lol. i working a trade for a 97 LS integra for it... so i might have a daily driver.. but i could use the cash more importantly...


    enough about that.. is there a way to check each component seperately with test without pullin the head off??

    got my ass beat by a guy with a highly modded NA Type R civic hatch tonight.. i almost cried.. wished it was retuned and there wasnt the leak issue i got going... grrr
     
  4. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    not really..just pull the head
     
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