JDM B18c (GSR) vs. JDM B18c-R

[3rdGenTeggy]

This is a list i have compiled of the two.
I been everywhere and got information piece by piece.
Now here it is, brought to you.
Please, if i have left something out, please add.
Lets make this as informative as possible.

Thanks.

Ps. Yes, i did write all of this myself.

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<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">B18c</span>
180hp / 126trq


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">B18c-R</span>
200hp / 134trq

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<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- Compression Ration</span>
B18c<span style="color:#CCCCFF">-G </span>= 10.6 : 1
B18c-R = 11.1 : 1


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- LSD (Limited Slip Diff.)</span>
B18c<span style="color:#CCCCFF">-G</span> = Optional
B18c-R = Stock Equipped


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- Final Drive</span>
B18c<span style="color:#CCCCFF">-G</span> = 4.4
B18c-R = 4.78


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- Tranny Gearing</span>
(All gears are the same, except 2nd. and 3rd.)
B18c<span style="color:#CCCCFF">-G</span> = 1.9 (2nd) / 1.36 (3rd)
B18c-R = 2.1 (2nd) / 1.45 (3rd)
NOTE*=B18c-R has a better 2nd Gear Synchro.


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- Camshafts</span>
B18c-R better out of the two. (B16b CTR are superior)


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- ECU</span>
B18c-R has better ECU Program. Better timing and Fuel maps.
Speed limiter is higher. Calibrated for 100 RON Octane (Standard JDM Fuel).


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- Manifolds</span>
B18c-R has the better Exhaust and Intake manifolds.


<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">- Valve Springs</span>
B18c<span style="color:#CCCCFF">-G</span> = Dual/Single
B18c-R = Dual/Dual


The B18CR has a higher flow head, Port &Polished midly, with uprated valve springs,
wilder camshafts, different valves with special multi-angle cut valve seats and a high flow
intake manifold with bigger throttle body. The exhaust is stainless steel and specially
designed for the engine. The ECU revs the engine to a rev-cut of 9000rpm vs 8000+ for the regular engine.

The block itself has special hi-comp pistons with molybdenum coated skirtings,
balanced crankshaft and the block itself has an oil-water heat exchanger (sort of oil cooler).
The flywheel is lighter and made of alloy. The gearbox has a helical LSD and depending
on the year of manufacturer can have a better FD (4.785) with matched gear-ratios.
I also remember that the 2nd gear synchros are improved (double synchros if I remember correctly).



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Thats pretty much it so far.
Again if any of you guys have anything to add please do.
I am just getting into these engines and i want to know all that i can before i go buying.
I like to find stuff on my own, but its always best to see outside opinions/information.

Thanks.

 

[K2e2vin]

Nice! This is the first time I've seen the JDM GSR compared to the Type-R.

 

[jamesA]

although that drifting car (trueno??) is sweet, no pics in sigs allowed here.

nice list too.

 

[sheekdude]

The numbers speak for themselves!!! What else is there to talk about??? The B18c-r is by far the superior motor, not to mention the fine tuning honda did to the motor. Complete rotational assembley fully balanced, valve seats are polished and the heads(96-97) were all hand built!

 

[3rdGenTeggy]

Why did the Type R have longer gears on 2nd and 3rd?

what advantage would that give it over the JDM GSR?

 

[n1mr0d]

Quoted post[/post]]
Why did the Type R have longer gears on 2nd and 3rd?

what advantage would that give it over the JDM GSR?

so when you shift from 1st to 2nd then to 3rd you will not only stay in the meat of the power band of the motor but also accelerate faster.

 

[K2e2vin]

The ITR is a better motor, but there are some people who cant afford the Type-R so go GSR instead. I know two guys personally that have JDM GSRs, but none of them know the specs vs. USDM GSR and the ITR motors.

 

[3rdGenTeggy]

UPDATED!

 

[formby]

i would still just build an lsv or a b16t..over a gsr or tr....best bang for the buck

 

[lsturbohatch10]

Quoted post[/post]]
i would still just build an lsv or a b16t..over a gsr or tr....best bang for the buck

well you have limits of what you can do with these two setups. b16 lacks torque, and the lsv has reliability problems. some people would spend the extra money on a gsr or type-r to get the long term advantages. i agree tho b16t and lsv are great if not planning for high horse power

 

[formby]

. b16 lacks torque, and the lsv has reliability problems.

those things fall under the category "user error"

the torque can be fixed (FI) and you have a 1.6-2.0 4 cyl engine....torque will always be an issue and the "reliability problem" is a myth..imo.....anything that you build right will last as hard as you ride it or run as bad as you tune it

but i'm the kind of person that refuses to pay 3-4 grand on an engine that some jdm kid beat on for 60k+ miles...i rather build a 3-4 grand "new" engine with a couple of more ponies...but its up to the individual to decide

 

[dirtyrussian16]

Which of the two would be a better motor to turbo? The b18c1 or b18c5/type r? and which market? Thanks

 

[formby]

i would go with the usdm gsr from h-motors with the lsd.....then you need to get Low CR pistons (CP.JE) and some eagle rods....only if you want a proper FI engine...


you can even put an ls crank and rods in the gsr.....just remove the oil squirters...or knife edge the crank...thats the best way to make an lsv

 

[dirtyrussian16]

what compression would u recommend?

 

[formby]

9.8:1 even 10.0:1......but @ 10 you need a better tune and you might get the same HP at lower psi

 

[3rdGenTeggy]

I hate the Intake Manifold on my USDM GSR. So im looking into this option into getting a Skunk2 Intake Manifold this will eliminate the badly designed dual stage manifold.
The reason i want to do this is because they dont have any way to activate the 2nd manifold flap.
Also got a greater improved designed and performance over the stock GSR manifold.
I think thats why Honda went back with a single stage manifold in the TYPE R.
The skunk 2 manifold is better than the OEM type r one, imo.

But what i want to know is, Skunk2 has two Mani's.
They have the regular one and they also have the Pro-Series.
Does anybody know the difference between the two?