JDM b18c turbo

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

S

stedscivic

Senior Member
i plan on putting a turbo on my jdm b18c gsr in a 94 civic
i want to have good dependability and drivability
i read the the t3 isnt good on a gsr
i read a drag turbo kit isnt the best because limited boost
what is a good turbo set up on a civic with a gsr swap

i want a good 1/4 mile et and good depenability
someone help me out
 
A straight T3 is too small for a gsr motor. I'm not sure what you're talking about with when you say limited boost with the drag turbo kit.

What exactly is a good 1/4 ET to you? If you want dependability then you'll need to pick up an engine management system (AEM EMS, Hondata, Uberdata, F.A.S.T., SpeedPro, Chrome, Zdyne, Ghettodyne, just to name a few) and upgrade your injectors and fuel pump.

What kind of power do you want to reach with your setup?
 
Originally posted by NotUrAverage_Si@Sep 15 2004, 10:29 PM
A straight T3 is too small for a gsr motor. I'm not sure what you're talking about with when you say limited boost with the drag turbo kit.

What exactly is a good 1/4 ET to you? If you want dependability then you'll need to pick up an engine management system (AEM EMS, Hondata, Uberdata, F.A.S.T., SpeedPro, Chrome, Zdyne, Ghettodyne, just to name a few) and upgrade your injectors and fuel pump.

What kind of power do you want to reach with your setup?
[post=390869]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...

i want to break 14 if possible i dont need a 12 second street car unless it is dependable
 
yup, open your wallet :D

quite frankly, a wallet is the only thing holding back everyone from owning 10 sec street hondas. seriously.
 
uhh, well, yeah- you can go all motor if you want to spend even more money to hit 13s...... but that's not what hes implying here.

hes saying do all that to your block to support the turbo setup
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Sep 16 2004, 01:22 PM
uhh, well, yeah- you can go all motor if you want to spend even more money to hit 13s...... but that's not what hes implying here.

hes saying do all that to your block to support the turbo setup
[post=391150]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...


i know if i would do block work it would help out for the turbo set up and make it last longer

what can i do as far as just turbo to get good times and how much boost are we talking to get 13 with no block work

if block work is done how much boost to get in the 13s less than if i did no block work? if this is so im risking reliablility right beacause of more boost on the stock motor

whats a good place in ohio to get block work done i dont have the equipment to do this even tho id like to
 
psi of boost is meaningless. its pressure, not volume of air that is inducted in the form of CFM.

assuiming the same compression motor, it will take the same psi from the same turbo to hit the same time, built or not... but thats assuimng you can standardize your human error for driving, track conditions, temp, humidity, and i could list shit like this for hours.

fact is, you CAN make 500 hp on a stock motor.

fact is, it will blow up.

maybe not right away, but eventually, something will give.

to go 13s, you need about 225-ish in a larger car, less in a 2000 pound gutted hatch or something.

if you want to sleeve it, send it out to bensons, or importbuilders and have them seleve, and assemle your bottom end.
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Sep 16 2004, 03:28 PM
psi of boost is meaningless. its pressure, not volume of air that is inducted in the form of CFM.

assuiming the same compression motor, it will take the same psi from the same turbo to hit the same time, built or not... but thats assuimng you can standardize your human error for driving, track conditions, temp, humidity, and i could list shit like this for hours.

fact is, you CAN make 500 hp on a stock motor.

fact is, it will blow up.

maybe not right away, but eventually, something will give.

to go 13s, you need about 225-ish in a larger car, less in a 2000 pound gutted hatch or something.

if you want to sleeve it, send it out to bensons, or importbuilders and have them seleve, and assemle your bottom end.
[post=391223]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...


where is bensons anywhere close to ohio?
do they have a website
 
He meant Volume not Pressure instead of vice versa.

A 250 whp setup can get you the goals you need without beeing too stressful on your engine. If you really want reliability and have the coin to push, sleeve and strengthen your bottom end.
 
Originally posted by [Freemantle]@Sep 16 2004, 09:58 PM
He meant Volume not Pressure instead of vice versa.

A 250 whp setup can get you the goals you need without beeing too stressful on your engine. If you really want reliability and have the coin to push, sleeve and strengthen your bottom end.
[post=391358]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...


what else other than the sleeves?
whats a good turbo kit?
 
Originally posted by stedscivic+Sep 16 2004, 10:01 PM-->
stedscivic @ Sep 16 2004 said:
[Freemantle
Click to expand...
stedscivic @ Sep 16 2004 said:
,Sep 16 2004, 09:58 PM]He meant Volume not Pressure instead of vice versa.

A 250 whp setup can get you the goals you need without beeing too stressful on your engine. If you really want reliability and have the coin to push, sleeve and strengthen your bottom end.
[post=391358]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...


what else other than the sleeves?
whats a good turbo kit?
[post=391362]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...



Rods
Rod-bolts
pistons
and a good balance
cryo if you feel like it (IMO, I don't think it helps as much as it is claimed to do)

Don't go with a kit. It will cost too much for parts you would rather upgrade. Buy a turbo from www.precisionturbo.com or www.innovativeturbo.com or www.cheapturbo.com. Buy a PWR intercooler from www.cheapturbo.com. Buy your bolt sets, piping, and oil kit there or somwhere else (JCwhitney, www.fastturbo.com). Buy a BOV and wastegate (ebay). Buy Injectors (DSM or RCEngineering). Buy a resistor box.
 
Originally posted by [Freemantle]@Sep 16 2004, 10:58 PM
He meant Volume not Pressure instead of vice versa.

A 250 whp setup can get you the goals you need without beeing too stressful on your engine. If you really want reliability and have the coin to push, sleeve and strengthen your bottom end.
[post=391358]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...

no, i meant what i said- you jsut read it wrong. note the comma :) its key. hehe

pressure is pressure
volume = cfm = power potential air component
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol+Sep 16 2004, 10:16 PM-->
pissedoffsol @ Sep 16 2004 said:
[Freemantle
Click to expand...
pissedoffsol @ Sep 16 2004 said:
,Sep 16 2004, 10:58 PM]He meant Volume not Pressure instead of vice versa.

A 250 whp setup can get you the goals you need without beeing too stressful on your engine. If you really want reliability and have the coin to push, sleeve and strengthen your bottom end.
[post=391358]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...

no, i meant what i said- you jsut read it wrong. note the comma :) its key. hehe

pressure is pressure
volume = cfm = power potential air component
[post=391374]Quoted post[/post]​
Click to expand...



Oh. I read it as "It's pressure-not volvume- that is inducted in the form of CFM"... my bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top