JDM B20Vtec Build

[DanTheHondaMan]

I made another change.

I did some more research and found out that changing the GSR Final Drive to an LS Final Drive Lengthens all the Gears 1-5.

So I decided to go with LS 5th Gear and GSR Final Drive.

That way I can drop the rpms some in 5th gear but still retain my short gearing 1-4.

I like my revs lol.

So the trans will have all new hubs, carbon coated syncrotech syncros, new bearings, new seals, new ring bolts, Mfactory LSD, GSR 1-4, LS 5th and GSR FD.

Also having to replace the oil feed line to the head bcuz its kinked.

And gatta replace an exhaust section.

Hopefully looking at a Friday pickup.

We will see how everything else goes.

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Transmission is done.

Just waiting on a few parts to come in. Waiting on Manuel Steering rack, push-lock fittings for vacuum lines and boost lines, oil catch can and -an10 fittings.

 

[E_SolSi]

Manuel Steering rack

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

manual*

 

[E_SolSi]

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

We are so close.

As usual we made a couple last minute changes.

I dropped some gsr cams in, put a brand new itr oil pump on. manual rack is done.

heres a list of all parts.


New oil pump, gsr cams, 4 port blackworks catch can(venting block and valve cover), replaced all seals grommets and gaskets, replaced all the hoses, replaced all the vtec orings and gaskets, installed a manual steering rack with new grommets and couplings, redesigned the down pipe and midpipe for my 3 inch exhaust, new oil, new oil filter, new spark plugs, we rebuilt the gsr trans with Mfactory LSD and carbon coated syncros and cleaned the case and all the parts and small ports thoroughly, and put in ls 5th gear, have innovate oil pressure gauge, innovate wideband, innovate boost gauge,

Turbosmart 40mm wastegate, turbosmart 50mm raceport bov, installing my electronic boost control 3 port solenoid so we can use the ecu to control boost pressure versus a set spring. turning on boost by gear, ram horn turbo ceramic coated inside and out, already adjusted the valves and dialed the cam gears in after installing the gsr cams. Stage 4 6puck sprung clutch, new pilot and new throwout bearings, resurfaced oem flywheel to prevent premature boost cut.

Were hoping for 350-360whp

I want more but were worried the motor won't hold together.

I know we could make no less than 400whp but were concerned we will blow the motor to pieces because of the bearings. But we will see how the motor responds on the dyno.

It should be done either this week or next week for sure. We finally have ALL the parts. There were little things here and there that came up last minute, like the stuff for the manual steering rack that held up progress.

Can't wait to post a dyno sheet!

Also here is a pic of my car I just bought:

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

I forgot to mention.

We found linked oil line going to the head and the oil pressure orifice oring was crushed too.

I am real interested to find out where the oil pressure is going to be at when we start the engine up again.

So many things restricting oil pressure including the oil pump has been found.

I'm hoping that oil pressure rises to the point we can attempt to make more power out of the motor.

But who knows. Won't know until we start her up. Can't wait!!!

300whp+++ here we come!!!

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Ok. I have a question for everyone here.

Being that I have stock internals with possibly worn bearings;

Would you guys keep the whp to 360 or less or would you tune for 400whp?

Keep in mind we've done everything possible to help the oil pressure and to help the motor breath short of opening the block.

Everything I read online says 400whp on stock internals is safe as long as you have supporting mods like a catch can for example.

And most importantly that the tuning is spot on.

But as we all know you can't believe everything you read online and no setup is exactly the same and not everyone takes care of their cars the same and ect.

So looking for opinions on the matter at hand.

Thanks.

 

[Xanatos]

I'd have to say it depends on the health of the block, which seems to be an unknown. Whoever tunes the car should have a decent idea of what the happy medium between "safe" and "most power" is but every car is different. Is the extra 40+ whp worth having to tear down and rebuild everything again to you? Either way I'd be prepared for the bottom end to go boom eventually.

 

[dilbeckskate]

you can replace the bearings without even pulling the engine , drop the pan and cradle and pop some bearings in and keep on trucking

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Ya I know. But I'm building my sleeved motor. Already have the bottom end parts.

Not trying to rebuild 2 blocks lol.

And if I just change the bearings I really should change the piston rings at the same time.

Bearings and pistons rings would probably cost me roughly $1k between parts and labor.


My tuner is insisting we keep it between 300-350whp max depending on how the motor responds during tuning on the dyno.

But I already drive a daily 300whp car. So I was wanting a faster play toy but he says anything over 350 and we will blow the motor to pieces.

So I don't know. Part of me wants to say fuck it and go for max power and see what happens but the other part me kinda wants to just tune it for 350ish and have fun for a while lol.

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Engine is in the car.

Pics fabbing up the custom stainless steel 3inch downpipe and installing engine.

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Getting close!!!! I can almost taste it!!!!

 

[Matts96HB]

This is your first higher hp car, right? Keep the tune safe. 300-350 whp is plenty.

 

[dilbeckskate]

This is your first higher hp car, right? Keep the tune safe. 300-350 whp is plenty.

he said he bought the CTR lol and meh if it isnt in 500+ hp club it feels slow to me now

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Yes I already drive a 300whp car daily.

Looking to have a go fast toy for weekends.

But if I make 350whp in my ek on stock internals I will be happy for now until I get my other motor built.

 

[dilbeckskate]

Lol if your current motor needs rod bearings its 1 time of being under a load away from knocking or locking up stacking a bearing

 

[TurboMirage]

im with dilbeck. easy peasy to fix the current motor. and then you have time to take your time on the second.

 

[dilbeckskate]

yea I mean why not fix a motor when it only needs a $100 set of bearings and a pan gasket and oil and about a hr.5 time to fix and the oil to put back in it

 

[Matts96HB]

Even with it rebuilt I’d keep it at 300-350 whp. 400 is pushing it on stock bottom end.