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JDM B20Vtec Build

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by DanTheHondaMan, Dec 5, 2016.

  1. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    In my opinion, you should get whatever management system your tuner likes because the end result is really the big point here.

    From my understanding, AEM is weird/different in certain ways but if a tuner has worked with it enough, it's a good system.

    Motec is baller status....that's all I know. Never knew anyone running it but I don't know ever car's set up at the track. It's nice but brings us back to tuner's comfortability.

    I've got Hondata....it's enough for my needs but I'd like to have a standalone like AEM.....with their display and such.
     
  2. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Thanks for the feedback.

    I am going to stick with Hondata for now. But I am going to save up and get motec and all the goodies to go with it. I know someone who tunes motec.

    So I have a BIG update. I've upgraded everything. I'm sparing no expense on this build. Also I have a local speed shop giving me a street car sponsorship. I'm getting all my parts at cost!!!

    Now I will be able to get my interior restored.

    I'm getting new carpet and new head liner,

    I'm getting the car painted, door jams, car, engine bay and ect. He's also going to shave my engine bay.

    I purchased Black anodized Hasport 70a engine and trans mounts. I was able to get the last set before they we're discontinued I got very lucky. Their not making these mounts anymore.

    Also the BIGGEST news is that I spoke to Victory Precision Machine! They are starting the machine work Monday!!!!


    Today I purchased 100% full ferrera valvetrain and valves. I ordered std size competition plus valves. New valve guides and ect.

    My cr is a little on the low side so I have to go with Skunk2 Pro 1 cams.

    My compression should come out around 10:5 1 to 11:1. Its because I'm using a B16 head.

    Victory Precision Machine sent me an email and said my build should produce 1000whp. Omg that's a lot of power. That's great because next year I'm converting to awd.

    I should have my motor by August 15th.

    I'm buying everything brand new and oem. Seals gaskets, itr oil pump, water pump, alternator timing belt, cam seals, cam gears, and ect.

    I'm getting the mains diamond honed. And putting in upgraded arp mains.

    I'm also getting the block oringed and buying L19 Head Studs. Going to use a golden eagle head gasket.

    I'm also ordering Wilwood Big Brake Kit for the front.

    I will be putting new wheel studs and new wheel bearings on. And I'm going to buy new spherical lower control arm bushings for the steer axle.

    I'm basically building and restoring the car.

    I'm also going to have a local shop make a custom a/c kit for the car too.

    And I'm going to get an aftermarket alarm with remote start and GPS.

    The very last thing I will do is buy a good quality sound system too.

    Oh and I'm buying new wheels and tires.

    Guys I am so excited!!! I've waited a long time to get to this point.

    I appreciate everyone that's been following my build. I've learned a lot and have made a few mistakes along the way. But that's cool. At least I will have a fun and comfortable race/street car.

    Oh I forgot to mention. I'm going to have 2 different tunes on my car. 1 for daily driving and 1 for when I want to have some fun.

    I will post some pics of some of the parts I've bought later.
     
    Matts96HB likes this.
  3. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Small update:

    At this point all the parts needed to complete the build have been purchased.

    Last thing on the list. I bought an OEM ITR oil pump. I'm sending my oil pump to victory to have it CNC ported.

    Very very exciting. I'm Estimating at 3-4 more weeks and hopefully it will either be getting bolted in or being shipped back. ***Crosses Fingers***
     
  4. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    I found out on Tuesday they haven't done anything with the motor yet.

    I'm really starting to get upset. They've been paid and they have all the parts. It's going to be September soon. I sure hope the wait is worth it.
     
  5. Jeef

    Jeef NO MA'AM Moderator VIP

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    You shouldn't give them everything upfront, no incentive to get it done.
     
  6. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    take it from me ... dont pay upfront ... thats how I got fucked out of a $5550 paint job when the shop closed and filed personal/business bankruptcy and was a motherfucker to get my car and parts in the shop back. if the shop isnt reputable to be able to cover things upfront then dont deal with them
     
  7. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Hey everyone. Finally got an update on motor from Victory.

    They said the head is done. And they are currently working on the short block assembly.

    It shouldn't be too much longer now.

    Man I can't wait.

    Also I got a promotion at my job. I am now running the shop!!!! The GM quit!

    The company told me I was in charge and that once they completely process the other guy out of our system they are going to officially offer me the GM position.

    And the pay is excellent. Almost 6 figures a year. So I will be able to completely finish my build now once all the mechanical stuff is done.

    I am super excited. Should be any day now.
     
    phunky.buddha likes this.
  8. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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  9. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Great News!!!!

    My Short Block is CNC'D, Diamond Honed, Upgraded ARP Mains(Align Honed), all my upgraded parts installed and everything Blueprinted! And Copper Oringed.

    My CNC Race Port B16 Head is finished! My Ferrara Valvetrain installed with Upgraded Competition Plus Valves.

    They also plugged and tapped the crank and removed the balls. Is a polished gsr crank.

    Also I bought a Black 5.5 Liter Ultra Race Series Intake Manifold and the CNC Race Ported that and port matched it to my head with matching 90mm black Throttle Body and spacer.

    Victory shipped my motor and everything with it on Friday 10/11/19!!!!!

    Looks like the wait was well worth it! But we will see how she runs and what numbers she puts down. I'm estimating about 900whp on the Dyno. That was my whp goal.

    Victory said this motor can run 1000whp - 1200whp all day long.

    They completely remanufacture the block as if it was designed and built from a Honda Factory. At least that's what I've been told.

    I will be turning it down for the street some until I install my AWD Setup that I want. That's my next project after I get the body work and paint as well as interior done.

    My neighbors are going to hate me even more now lol.

    This thing is going to be lots of fun to drive!

    If I manage to get 10-15yrs out of this block I will be happy. This will be the 4th motor I've put in this car

    Here's a list of everything they did:

    B Series Block & Head

    B16/GSR CNC Race Port $1000.00
    -CNC Race Port
    -Competition Valve Job
    -Bowl Blend
    -Surfacing
    -Hot Tank
    -Vacuum Testing


    GSR InlinePro Sleeved Block

    Guide Install (Hone & Ream) $250.00
    Head Disassembly 4 Cyl $60.00
    Head Assembly 4 Cyl $150.00
    CNC Bore & Diamond Hone I4 $400.00
    Oring Block I4 $150.00
    Balance 4Cyl Rotating Assembly $250.00
    Remove Balls from Crankshaft, Drill, Tap, Clean, Plug Crank 4cyl $200.00
    Short Block Assembly 4Cyl (Includes Blueprinting, Spec Sheet, &
    Final Cleaning) $950.00


    I am so excited!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  10. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Once I have a copy of the spec sheet I will post it. This is awesome.

    This is the first motor I've ever built and I decided to do it right and not cheap out on anything.

    The only thing I haven't done is buy upgraded cv axles. Do you think its neccessary to get some???

    GSR Trans is already built with new upgraded carbon coated syncros. New shaft and ect. MFactory LSD.

    I can hardly contain myself.
     
  11. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Ok....

    Here's some pictures. The block looks great.

    The Head. Hmmm. This does not look like its CNC Race Port And Polish.

    The shop that's installing everything says its cnc ported.

    What do you guys think?
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    There isn't much material left between the runners on the intake side of that cylinder head. Did this shop do the work or was the work already done?
     
  13. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Victory Precision Machine did all the work. It came back from them like this. The shop that's installing everything says it looks normal and that its just not shiney. Well I paid to have it polished so wtf?
     
  14. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    i was always under the impression that the intake side should be coarse and exhaust side should be shiny. or do i have it backwards?
     
  15. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    This is the email response and explanation that Victory Precision Machine gave me:


    The manifold is there. I just talked to -----. As far as the head being ported, it is our race port. The same port all of our sponsored cars run in sfwd. We do not polish with our cnc port and we have never advertised a port and polished cylinder head. our race port includes 5 axis cnc porting, serdi valve job, bowl blend, surfacing and hot tank. There is no benefit in polishing. You want the turbulence in the chamber. Going fast and producing a product that works is not a fashion show. Those heads are made to look that way for marketing purpose, not performance.


    I don't know. What do you guys think?
     
  16. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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  17. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Yea, you're good to go man. Like I said, you really can't take much more material out of those runners. The polish part of a "port and polish" is not really a thing.
     
  18. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    At the moment I have no choice but to run this head. And it can't be redone because its ported so much. If I make the power I'm wanting then I will be happy. Performance over looks all day. It's not like anyone is going to be looking inside intake and exhaust ports once everything is installed.

    My goal is to dyno at least 900whp on beast mode. Probably around 700whp daily on the street. But we will see what happens. Either way the block looks good and that's one of the most important parts of the build. I will post my Build Sheet once I have it. And I will post the dyno once I have it.

    This has been a very aggravating process. It's certainly been a learning experience. I'm telling you. I see why people don't finish their projects. Smh.
     
  19. DanTheHondaMan

    DanTheHondaMan Active Member

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    Ok this is an interesting read from Wikipedia:


    It is popularly held that enlarging the ports to the maximum possible size and applying a mirror finish is what porting entails. However, that is not so. Some ports may be enlarged to their maximum possible size (in keeping with the highest level of aerodynamic efficiency), but those engines are highly developed, very-high-speed units where the actual size of the ports has become a restriction. Larger ports flow more fuel/air at higher RPMs but sacrifice torque at lower RPMs due to lower fuel/air velocity. A mirror finish of the port does not provide the increase that intuition suggests. In fact, within intake systems, the surface is usually deliberately textured to a degree of uniform roughness to encourage fuel deposited on the port walls to evaporate quickly. A rough surface on selected areas of the port may also alter flow by energizing the boundary layer, which can alter the flow path noticeably, possibly increasing flow. This is similar to what the dimples on a golf ball do. Flow bench testing shows that the difference between a mirror-finished intake port and a rough-textured port is typically less than 1%. The difference between a smooth-to-the-touch port and an optically mirrored surface is not measurable by ordinary means. Exhaust ports may be smooth-finished because of the dry gas flow and in the interest of minimizing exhaust by-product build-up. A 300- to 400-grit finish followed by a light buff is generally accepted to be representative of a near optimal finish for exhaust gas ports.

    The reason that polished ports are not advantageous from a flow standpoint is that at the interface between the metal wall and the air, the air speed is zero (see boundary layer and laminar flow). This is due to the wetting action of the air and indeed all fluids. The first layer of molecules adheres to the wall and does not move significantly. The rest of the flow field must shear past, which develops a velocity profile (or gradient) across the duct. For surface roughness to impact flow appreciably, the high spots must be high enough to protrude into the faster-moving air toward the center. Only a very rough surface does this.

    [​IMG]
    A developed velocity profile in a duct that shows why polished surfaces have little effect on flow. The air speed at the wall interface is zero regardless of how smooth it is.
     
  20. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Yeah, this is extremely elementary fluid mechanics. I didn't feel like writing all of it out because, you know, I'm an engineer and I'm lazy. :D
     
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