JDM B20Vtec Build

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It's possible (not probable) that the motor makes power close to 9k.

When you dyno, also ask the guy what dyno numbers he gets on basic bolt on Honda/Acura motors. It will give a better reference since all dynos read different. Like a K20A2 or B18C1 or (best for you) OEM LSV
 
Thank you for your responses. Ok maybe I am mistaking but I read some info that there was a B20b overseas that came in an SiR. But could of been bad info. Thanks for the link. I will check it out.

The Head however I do know for a fact its an SiR head. but anyways at the end of the day it really doesn't matter because i'm ganna keep building the car to what I want it to be.

My end goal is to have a very very nice looking stock car(meaning a sleeper) black with all the suspension upgrades I can buy and hondata tune with turbo eventually and to make somewhere between 450-600whp.

I am adding an Si front bumper and an Si rear wing then painting it. The only things not stock will be the motor/trans and all the suspension parts.

Any suggestions on how to prevent people from stealing my car once its complete?

I've thought of maybe using kill switches i.e... ignition kill switch or a fuel kill switch or both and a removable steering wheel with a locking hub and then complimenting that with a nice alarm system.

what do you guys think?

I would hate to put all this money into it just to have it stolen. I want to be proactive.

And yes I cannot wait to dyno and tune the car. very exciting indeed
 
Kill switches are cool but that doesnt stop someone from grabbing the car by the front tires and hauling it off theres some nasty "snatch and go" tow trucks these days. Best thing you could do is insure the vehicle for a large enough amount to protect your investment. I have my 96 LS insured for the 5000 I have in it and its not costing me any more than it would to just insure it normally. I'd take all the reasonable precautions you mentioned but do insure it well.
 
Keep it in a garage, have a decent alarm and keep it simple looking.
 
Don't drive fast ANYWHERE near where you live/work/park. People will see it, find it, and steal it later.
if it looks slow, it won't be on anyone's radar.
if they hear vtec popping and see wheels/etc parts they can flip cheap, it's gone.
 
just lock the doors and dont drive it like a bat out of hell everywhere , my grandfather also always told me that if im somewhere that Im worried about my car being stolen I probably dont need to be there, keeping the car looking simple and locking it/car alarm will be plenty of security , also remember if you have people wanting to steal your car, you already have bigger issues
 
Small update. I'm holding off on turbo for the moment. I got a 4-1 header brand new for $61 and a stainless steel exhaust for $100. I also found a used set of ground control coilovers with skunk2 struts and already have them on. I still need to get the skunk2 intake manifold and 70mm throttle body. But after that I'm ganna install a viper alarm and paint it and purchase a locking hub with removable steering wheel. And then I'm ganna take it to CFT and have them tune it on hondata and dyno it. After all that I'm ganna drive it for a while and save up for turbo later on. but thats where i'm at for the moment. By the way I really appreciate everyone that has contributed to this post. Its been very helpful. Will dry to load up some pics with the new parts soon.
 
a $61 header new will probably lose power and a $100 new exhaust will prob sound like fidos poop and welds break left and right, not hating ive been there
 
What he means to say is, "That's extremely cheap for such parts and their performance ability might be in question."
 
Yes I agree. However I got the exhaust in the mail already and man the craftsmanship is unbelievable for the price. I expect the muffler to sound like crap, I plan on replacing it with the Skunk2 racing muffler next month. But the welds look great everything is very heavy and very solid. Very well put together exhaust for $113 and its got mendral bends so its 3 inches in diameter through and through. I was shocked when I got it. I mean we will see how it holds up.

The only thing that concerns me is the header because its aluminum and I'm worried it might crack eventually but if it holds up long enough until I go turbo then its served its purpose. Besides whats $60 anyways to try something out and I still have the stock header incase something happens. I was very impressed with the 3 inch exhaust though.
 
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They're great if you like replacing mounts haha. Innovative is a little cheaper than Hasport and neither me or my friends have had any problems with them if you want good mounts on a budget.

As for the exhaust remark I got a 2.5" cback exhaust for 90$ and 30$ test pipe for my old b20 teggy and it sounded halfway decent me and my friends were surprised. Every now and then you get lucky. Header is usually something I spend a little more money on though. I'd upgrade that sooner than later. Also you may be losing power with 3" N/A but I can't confirm; thats just heresay.

EDIT if you're talking about completely solid mounts I really wouldn't recommend those for anything but a dedicated race car. It will rattle your teeth.
 
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SOLID mounts? That's for super dedicated racecars that have so much hp they need no inserts to ensure the motor doesn't flex. Rattle your teeth kind of situation.
 
innovative mounts with poly inserts is best under 350hp , and the exhaust wont affect performance at all, exhaust scavenging is a real thing though like I said a oe manifold is probably = or better than a cheapo manifold not even talking shit, will look better though
 
Thanks for all the responses guys. We are real close to having everything on and done. I'm start daily driving it once i get everything on and eventually will take it for hondata tuning and dyno. I cannot wait to do that.

Right now its on a chipped ECU with everything turned off except for Fuel Spark and Vtec. All the sensors and everything are turned off. It runs good but just a little rich.
 
your car uses every single sensor on the motor for performance and making adjustments to run correctly/ to add/remove timing and make other adjustments ex A/F ratio or idle, blah blah blah soo making comments like that just make you sound silly, also im still waiting for trans/head stamping
 
I thought I already posted pictures with it. You are reading too much into what I said. What I am saying is that everything is turned off except for what I need to run the motor: Timing, Fuel, and Vtec. Everything else is turned off. I.E. knock sensor is turned off all of my air sensors turned off. None of them are hooked up. So no I do not sound silly.


I will post the pics.
 
Here are the pictures of the trans. I will find a pic of the head soon. My car is almost done. We are putting power steering and a/c on it and installing the headers and exhaust. Once we are done with that I'm start driving it on the regular
 

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