JDM B20Vtec Build

[DanTheHondaMan]

This is a picture of my header I bought, I also bought slotted and cross drilled rotors, stainless steel braided break lines and ceramic pads, I have installed ground control coilovers with skunk2 struts with the top strut pieces that you can see in the engine bay forget what they are called, and we are trying to bolt up the stainless steel 3 inch exhaust to my header but its not fitting and lining up. I think they sent me exhaust for a ex and not an si. So I'm ganna have to go to an exhaust shop and have them make like a 3-4 inch long 3 inch diameter pipe and put a flange on each end in order to bolt it up. And once my traction bar kit shows up I will take a picture of everything. Thats all I can think of for now.

I am looking for some used has port motor mounts or innovative motor mounts, I don't want the ebay ones I'm afraid they may break. So I need to purchase some of those and I need to get some lower control arms and a control arm bar.

after that we will finish up the a/c and power steering then I'm ganna start driving it on the regular

 

[dilbeckskate]

your friends project is coming along nicely , and 3 inch exhaust in a NA car... holy shit its going to sound like raspy shit thats turbo car exhaust , ive lost all faith in this thread your buddy needs to make a account though, dont name your account the honda man if you only know what you have been spoon fed

 

[dilbeckskate]

youve already pretty much admitted its your buddys car you are helping him with ole danny boy

 

[dilbeckskate]

this motors soooo fast makes sooooo much power... hasnt driven it yet and hasnt had anything that makes power soo of course it feels fast

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Ya know, I'm sure you get off acting like that. I have $7000 in the car so far. I own it. I have paid for everything. I will take a picture of the title to prove to you its my car since you want to instigate things. I am not a dishonest person. I might be misinformed or uninformed on somethings like I said I never claimed to be a mechanic. But everything on and in the car including the car itself is mine. So if you don't have anything productive to say don't say anything.


I have provided pics and info on each step of the process and you continue to act immature for whatever reason. Please don't say anything else unless you have something worth saying dilbeckskate.


anyways moving forward


I got the exhaust installed today and I have it all hooked up and straight piped pretty much. Runs great. But we heard a weird noise coming from the motor and it only happened when the motor revved so we were revving it up a little bit to see what it could be and BOOM! The Radiator cracked and spewed hot fluid everywhere. My friend had to go to the hospital. It got in my eyes, my nose, my hair and burned my stomach and leg. He got burnt all on his stomach and face and everything. Luckily were both going to be ok. I'm just glad I was wearing sunglasses other wise it would have been worse. Also I am going back over to his house tonight so I'm ganna snap some pics of the engine markings to once again prove what I have and when I get home tonight I will add them.


So now I have to buy a radiator I'm thinking about ordering the mishimoto half length slim fan radiator for $325 on Go-AutoWorks. Has anyone use those before are they good and if not what would you recommend?



Also I have included a pic of my title for my car to stifle anymore non sense. I don't want to hear nothing else about it not being my car. The title shows my first name and the model of the car. so stfu about it.

 

[dilbeckskate]

Nice im glad the car is yours and what you mean to say is you guys took the radiator cap off after the car got good and warm ...lol and did you find the noise or is it knocking ?

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Here again I have to provide proof. Shake my head. Noone is stupid enough to remove a radiator cap from a hot and running car. cmon now...

Heres some pics of the motor I promised and a pic of the radiator crack


Now moving on.


My block is stamped B20b as you can clearly see in the pictures. My head is Stamped PR3-4


B20b= JDM B20

PR3-4 = JDM ITR Head.


I have taken the time to research the stamps and according to what I can find on the internet both of these statements are true. Does anyone dispute that???




Ok so went ahead and purchased a Skunk2 Alpha Radiator with Skunk2 Radiator Cap and I also purchased some SickSpeed Motor Mounts and I purchase Lower Control Arms with a LCA Subframe Brace. Also My Full-Race Traction Bar should be here in a couple of days as well.




And yes we found out what the noise was. One of my stock motor mounts broke thats what the noise was. Doesn't matter I ordered some new ones anyways. Obviously the SickSpeeds.

We are putting the new NGK Spark Plug Wires on and New Rotor and button I bought and I'm ganna get ahead and get some new spark plugs tomorrow as well if I can find them local. I called CFT they recommended NGK V-Power Plugs Part number: 7173

Then next week we are ganna focus on getting the A/C and Power steering done also getting a brand new alternator this weekend too.

Then after that ganna take it to CFT to get it tuned.

I just hope that the radiator cracking was only due to a stuck thermostat and nothing to do with the head gasket. But we only seen fluid and steam coming from the radiator so hopefully thats all it was. Just don't know why it had so much pressure. However the radiator was used and old I was planning on replacing eventually anyways just not this soon but oh well. So hopefully it was just old and about to go anyways.


Let me know what you guys think

 

[Xanatos]

I'll defer to someone else on the ITR head but im pretty sure that casting applies to B16 and ITR heads, that said, they're essentially the same thing besides the guts and some factory PnP

Thats unfortunate about the radiator. I had a mishimoto in my Integra and it did good and looked good and I didnt pay much more than 200 for it new-used.

 

[dilbeckskate]

PR3-4 is no way of knowing its used on multiple engines but is jdm, and yes the bottom end is jdm I just wonder which b20 it is there are a few variants of the b20b

 

[dilbeckskate]

and ive used like $100 aluminum ebay radiators for years never had a issue just change the caps to a nice one

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Well its too late. I already purchased the Skunk2 alpha and it comes with a skunk2 rad cap.

I used to have a aluminun ebay radiator and it sprung a leak and skunk2 stands behind their products so it should be here next week.


By the way we checked the car out today and we were able to get it to start so the motor is fine thank God.

But the starter i think the solenoid is wet becuz its taking mutiple cranks to get it to turn over.

Oh well. I could always get a starter from the junkyard for $20 used with a 30 day warranty.

I'm just glad the motor is ok after all that. I'm ganna get a oem honda thermostat with a 140 rating.

Mise well since I'm replacing the radiator.

Is there anything else I should buy that I haven't listed yet?

 

[Xanatos]

New thermostats are always a good idea. If you're that far into the system I'd replace the O-ring on the pipe that goes from block to thermo housing. I've had those fail on me before and they're a PITA to replace if you don't have the system out already.

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

New thermostats are always a good idea. If you're that far into the system I'd replace the O-ring on the pipe that goes from block to thermo housing. I've had those fail on me before and they're a PITA to replace if you don't have the system out already.

Awesome look out bro. Didn't think of that.

Im going to honda tomorrow so I will pick up the o-ring and the thermostat

That way I don't have to worry about anymore cooling issues.

And be completely done with that part of the motor.

See this is why I post on the forums so if I over look something someone can point it out.

Thanks man.

 

[dilbeckskate]

also slotted/cross drilled rotors are a thing of the past with modern pads and you literally just have big cheese graders to your pads, originally they were made to relief gasses produced by non ceramic compound pads , well now that ceramics are king the slotted/cross drilled is a thing of the past and lowers pad life and creates additional brake dust, just fun fact for you

 

[Xanatos]

also slotted/cross drilled rotors are a thing of the past with modern pads and you literally just have big cheese graders to your pads, originally they were made to relief gasses produced by non ceramic compound pads , well now that ceramics are king the slotted/cross drilled is a thing of the past and lowers pad life and creates additional brake dust, just fun fact for you

So why are they a standard option on almost all high end performance vehicles?

 

[CAFROG]

So why are they a standard option on almost all high end performance vehicles?

I too think drilled rotors are not for me. They do help like they claim but (I've been told multiple times) they cannot be resurfaced. Why do some performance cars have them? My opinion....they do help performance and they DO help the manufacture make more money when you buy new rotors....and chew up your pads as you bend corners like Speed Racer.

Most big time Honda track car weekend warriors (at least in my area) run blank rotors with performance pads.

Also....PR3 head casts can either be a Type R or just a plain old B16. The valve springs are different and (obviously) the cams are different. Head port is slightly different (although my eye could never tell). I am pretty good at ITR cam identification and spring identification is easy because of the different paint HONDA puts on them.

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

So what should I do take a picture of the valvetrain?

 

[dilbeckskate]

Exotic performance cars usually use high end pads that are non ceramic, and they also usually have carbon-ceramic rotors if not coated, and no they cannot be resurfaced, and yes if you want a verification you have to take a picture of valvetrain

 

[CAFROG]

So what should I do take a picture of the valvetrain?

Not needed for us. But if you want to know for yourself, it's possible to see if you take a close up and well lit picture of the valve springs were there is paint on the springs (intake and exhaust springs). The colors can lead us.

My JDM B16 had dual springs on one side and singles on the other side.....at least that's my memory of 8+ years ago. Can't remember which side was dual.

But this might tell us nothing if they're aftermarket springs (or you struggle to see any color painted on the springs).

And then there's the possiblity they're ITR springs in a B16 head (I used to have the OEM springs and cams out of a 98 spec ITR in a B16 head).

If the spring colors match a B16's colors, then it's most likely (almost definitely) a B16 head.

Can't tell about the cams unless they're removed from the head.

 

[DanTheHondaMan]

Thats what I figured.

Well I already purchased the rotors, pads, and ss brake lines.

The rotors are painted/coated black zinc. They look sharp.

When I bought them I was told the posie quiet ceramic pads were made to be used with the slotted and cross drilled rotors. But who knows maybe they just said that to say it so they could sell the package to me.

Either way I won't be driving it enough for the pads to go quickly anyways.

I already have a daily driver 2016 toyota camry se.

This just my play toy.

I bought the thermostat and o ring from Honda today. And I ordered some cam seals. Mine are leaking a little bit figured I would go ahead and get them while I was there.

Also I need to get a vented valve cover and catch can. Know anyone selling that?