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Junkyard / Homemade Turbo

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by XZILER8, May 27, 2003.

  1. XZILER8

    XZILER8 Senior Member

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    I'm lookin at putting a temporary turbo kit together for my prelude. It's got the h23a1 and I just want to get some cheap FI on there while I save up for the rebuild.

    For starters, I'm plannin on using a small turbine like a t-25. I'm only lookin to run low boost. Somewhere in the 5 to 7 PSI range. However, I will definately be upgrading down the line and running high boost once the engine is bulletproofed.

    Is it possible to set the kit up in a way that when I do upgrade down the line, I won't have to change out much other than the turbine?

    ----OR----

    Would it be a better plan to just buy a bigger turbine right now and just turn the boost down until I upgrade internals?

    Thanks
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    save up and do it right the first time. you'd just going to waste money doing it that way.
     
  3. statiksol

    statiksol Banned

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    yeah i agree, plus the t25 is a very small turbo. its fine for single cams but for your beast of a motor you want much bigger. do it right the first time and you'll be much happier.
     
  4. XZILER8

    XZILER8 Senior Member

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    Which turbine do you reccomend for the h23?

    Once built, I will be running high boost. Probably in the mid to high teens.

    I've been looking at front mount intercoolers, but are they fairly comperable when it comes to function, efficiency, and reliabilty?

    I'm also looking at tial external wastegates, but do I need a 35mm, 40mm, etc???

    What size injectors should I use?

    I am also hoping to put a VTEC head on , and recently found info on how to do so. It doesn't sound too difficult (but nothing ever does...hehe) I have yet to figure out if it's worth it or not though. Whether or not this happens, should I get a S-AFC , V-AFC , or just go all out with the Hondata?

    Thanks in advance for your reccomendations.

    In an attempt to help you best understand my goals, This car is and will continue to be a sunday driver. It probably will see very little track time. It just a pleasure vehicle.....NOT a daily driver!
     
  5. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    not track - street. for street "fun" you want to go a little smaller than one would for a track car.

    h23 street car... sc34 with the .70 compressor, or an off the mill t3 60-1

    boost pressure is determined by turbo size.
    10 psi on a t66 is not the same power as 10 psi on a 14g

    intercoolers, i've heard nothing but rave reviews about PWR. They are cheap, have awesome welds, and look kick ass, and function just the same (so im told for now, we'll find out soon :) )
    for a street car, you don't need a 40mm... tial has discotinued the 35mm, and now is a 38mm. that will be fine for you.

    injectors depend on lots of things. go to http://www.rceng.com/ and in the tech section, they have a java calculator to help you pick out your injector size. Basically, over shoot your horsepower goal by 75-100 so that you won't ever run over the duty cycle.

    i highly recommend the hondata. its the only way to be fully safe. They don't call it the VAFC HACK for nothing. its exaclty what it is- a hack, and on top of that, its only good for 10-11 psi, due to the map sensor limitations. you're going to have to upgrade to a 3-bar GM map if you go past 13-ish anyway.

    the vtec head, i don't know anything about- that can probably be answered in the prelude forum.... but frankly, i think with some headwork, and some turbo cams, you won't miss vtec at all.
     
  6. Distorted

    Distorted Member

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    Unless your going to run standalone (IE: Hondata) or something that can alter and understand the signals from a GM 3 Bar Map sensor as the stock honda ECU will freak out if you do use a 3 Bar, just get a missing link from synapse engineering. It will allow you to run over 10psi easily. BUT, dont run the missing link under 10psi, its just not safe if you have a V-AFC or anything thats going to fuck with your timing, cause by altering the MAP readings with the missing link you will advance it further and then your motor is fucked. I'm able to run both because not only retarded my Timing manually at the distributor, but also run a MSD 6BTM which helps prevent predetonation while im tuning it if the combination of hacks causes any problems. You can safely run this kind of turbo set up over 10psi effectively, quite effectively actually. But the Hondata system will be far superior in every respect. A piggy back system like Greddy's Emanage coupled with the Profec E-o1 is also a great set up if you would prefer something thats a little easier to to on the fly tuning with, but for full race, good luck beating a well tuned hondata.
     
  7. XZILER8

    XZILER8 Senior Member

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    Thank you guys!

    That's a lot of great information! It really helps me get a good start!

    Just a couple more questions:

    Will 2 1/4 inch piping work for everything? It would be kinda nice to be able to keep my A/C, but if not, it's really no big deal at all! I already have a 2 1/4 inch axel back thermal exhaust. Will that be sufficient?

    Also, which Hondata system should I go with? From my initial research, It looks like system 2B best matches what I need. However, do you think it makes more sense to just go with the 3B or would that have a lot of wasted features?
    The full throttle shift sounds cool but whether or not a really need it for a street car is another story.

    If you'd prefer that I ask my hondata questions in the ECU forum, just say so....no big deal. However, if you know about the piping question I'd appreciate it!

    Thanks again!
     
  8. vpSPOONsol

    vpSPOONsol Senior Member

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    i recommend using 2 1/2 piping instead....i use 2 1/4 for my sohc application
     
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