K20 Type-R or B18c5 Type-R???

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

hahaha you guys aren't so bad. Well with the B18C5 do I have to get the driver side engine bracket? I dunno if it will fit properly in the bay without having to get it of a teggy or from a company. I heard you have to flatten out the lip on the crossmember so the bracket will even fit properly too. Also will I have to cut out some of my frame or pound it back for the alternator to fit? And, once I have dropped it in the bay is my hood gunna close or must I resort to shaving away at that as well?Or can I just some how space down the whole engine? then again that might give more problems witht the alternator fit. I think I will also have to replace the VTEC pressure switch, solenoid, and knock sensor. If I don't have to do this someone please let me know. Im gunna drop plenty of cash on my baby but I don't wanna break the bank ya know. I have an extra A/C compressor my friend gave me because mine doesnt work, but I don't think I want A/C now or post-swap. I want all the Hp I can get. Power steering gone too. So if I don't need the A/C i can take out all the cooling components right?

As for the K, I don't even know if I want to do that right now. I'm too inexperienced to be working on one of the harder honda swaps. I can do anything I put my mind to but right now a K would probably make me wanna blow my own brains out. I figure I'll just start off mixing blood, sweat, and grease with the B series then in a year or two I'll make a decision to upgrade. Thanks once again guys, even the assholes haha I turn hatin into motivation. NOW, HOOK ME UP WITH SOME HELP!!!!! hahaha
 
hahaha you guys aren't so bad. Well with the B18C5 do I have to get the driver side engine bracket? I dunno if it will fit properly in the bay without having to get it of a teggy or from a company. I heard you have to flatten out the lip on the crossmember so the bracket will even fit properly too. Also will I have to cut out some of my frame or pound it back for the alternator to fit? And, once I have dropped it in the bay is my hood gunna close or must I resort to shaving away at that as well?Or can I just some how space down the whole engine? then again that might give more problems witht the alternator fit. I think I will also have to replace the VTEC pressure switch, solenoid, and knock sensor. If I don't have to do this someone please let me know. Im gunna drop plenty of cash on my baby but I don't wanna break the bank ya know. I have an extra A/C compressor my friend gave me because mine doesnt work, but I don't think I want A/C now or post-swap. I want all the Hp I can get. Power steering gone too. So if I don't need the A/C i can take out all the cooling components right?

As for the K, I don't even know if I want to do that right now. I'm too inexperienced to be working on one of the harder honda swaps. I can do anything I put my mind to but right now a K would probably make me wanna blow my own brains out. I figure I'll just start off mixing blood, sweat, and grease with the B series then in a year or two I'll make a decision to upgrade. Thanks once again guys, even the assholes haha I turn hatin into motivation. NOW, HOOK ME UP WITH SOME HELP!!!!! hahaha

Yay. We broke him already. Welcome to Hondaswap!
 
Thanks once again guys, even the assholes haha I turn hatin into motivation. NOW, HOOK ME UP WITH SOME HELP!!!!! hahaha

Take everything that is said on this site with a grain of salt. A handful if you have to. Otherwise, it will be a long, rocky road. Ask 91accordwithwork. He will tell you.

You will also get a lot more positive, constructive answers if you can prove to us that you are doing your own research and not looking for a handout.

We can be a tough crowd, but this site is by far one of the most educated and informative sites for Honda tuning and work.

Enjoy your stay.
 
He probably went back to nursing on his mommy. Or he's making a new mod list to include the installation of new floor mats in his "accrod".
 
hahahaha cheers guys :) Well can i get some help already haha? Today I tried taking out my alternator to take it and get tested. I got it off fine but I CAN'T GET IT OUT!!! Do I have to take off the entire intake manifold or take off some suspension? A quick job quickly turned into a huge hassle. There are some hoses above the starter motor that it looks like maybe i could take them off. I tried to but they are fuckin stuck on there hardcore. Any tips for loosening seized hoses?
 
Ahhhh helppp!!!!

Ok so i got the freakin alternator out and took it to get tested. It passed all four times. My starter motor is fine and so is my solenoid. WHY WONT MY CAR START???? I turn the key and nothing happens but the cluster light up. This is killing me. Someone help:(
 
Are you sure your battery is good? It may have a dead cell. Happened to me. Lights would work but it didnt have enough juice to crank the motor.
 
I have replaced the battery a couple times already. The first time I did it started immediately and drove to my friends and back home. I tried to start again and it wouldnt. Tested it and it was discharged. Got another battery, put it in and it wouldnt even start. I have no idea whats going on
 
If its not the alternator, and your battery is not recharging Id check your voltage regulator.
 
Before I even had this problem the battery ground was just touching metal. I don't know where I am supposed to mount it?? There looks like a little tab that I could on the slave cylinder?

I will check voltage regulator and ignition module tomorrow
 
It sounds like your doin just what i did, only my civic is a 91 lol. my friend wrecked his 94 teg so i pulled the b18b1 out of it, and it was also an automatic lol.

i'll just list everything you'll need regardless of whether you know you need it already or not lol

-B18b1 obd1 engine
-Manual trans P75 obd1 ecu
-Trans of choice
-Integra axles (90-93 non-abs)
-90-93 integra MANUAL intermediate shaft
-P75 manual integra ecu
-Rywire obd0-obd1 conversion harness
-DA throttle cable
-shift linkages (ebay, avid, innovative, hasport, etc)
-new/resurfaced flywheel and flywheel bolts
-clutch kit
-Motor mounts (ebay, avid, innovative, hasport, etc)
-B18 manual tranny starter
-B18 cable tranny speed sensor (assuming you want to use stock gauge cluster)
-90-93 integra drivers side engine post bracket
-90-93 integra rear transmission bracket, must be from a manual

If you have an si, ex, or dx you're fine with axles. if you have an hf or std, then you need to swap spindles for the da axles to work.

If you intend on using obd0 injectors you can leave your resistor box alone. i however would recommend using the ob1 injectors. splice from your donor cars harness onto your obd0 harness the proper obd1 injector plugs, and then swap the obd1 injectors over. then remove your resistor box. solder all 5 wires that are on the engine side of the harness (4 red/black, 1 yellow/black) into eachother and then wrap the whole thing up in electrical tape.

be sure to pry the dust covers off the back side of the hubs to allow for clearance of the axles, if you don't remove the cover they may bind up causing the axles to prematurely fail. heres a pic showing removal of the cover, its quite easy just use a flat head screw driver to pop them out.
33362990rt7.png


You'll need to move and extend your coolant temp fan switch wires from the back of the block to side of the head on the thermostat housing. its a two prong plug with one single-wire connector on each. just cut off the connectors and solder/barrel connect the proper 2-wire fan switch plug from your donor car to these two wires. if you don't get this hooked up your radiator fan will never kick on.

Also you will need to make a dent below your driverside frame rail for alternator clearance. if you dont the alternator pulley will rub against it.
86132298py0.jpg


You can use the radiator hoses from the teg, just trim them to fit. they're a tad big for the upper and lower radiator connections, but if you tighten em down tight you'll be fine. mine haven't leaked yet. and lastly just unplug your map plug from the firewall and snap it into your new throttlebody mounted map. and the vaccum lines are pretty easy to figure out once you take a look at where everythings going.

And that should just about do it :)

all this from D16SiHatch maybe it can help u my good friend. it helped me just do more research and you will be fine, and also go with a b18b1 you can get one for 500 dollars and save more money than doin a type-r swap. but go with what u want all i can do is give u advice.
 
did you check the grounds?? thats what it sounds like. tranny/t-stat housing and valve cover ground.

by the way welcome to HS
 
wow its getting shittier by the second. I went to put my starter motor and solenoid back on and one of the bolts on the solenoid keeps sinking back into it so i cant attach the elec. and the nut. i took it out twice already keeps messing up.

I DONT KNOW WHERE TO GROUND THE BATTERY.

Once i fix the solenoid and and test the ignition module and hook up the grounds i will throw the battery in and try to start it. I just don't even feel like working on it until later becasue im so stressed out.
 
ground the battery to the frame as close as u can to the batt so it has a better ground my good friend.
 
Back
Top