Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EP / DC5' started by KeLeMi821, Mar 28, 2004.
damn the aem intake really does make 20hp on the rsx typeS
The DC does a pretty good job too, 19.5 I believe, with slightly more torque, even the ram intakes pull decent numbers, injen made 8WHP, pretty damn impressive if you ask me.
i found some info that you guys might find helpful and really sums things up
it's in sport compact magazine i believe but someone posted the info also on
in one of the issues of honda tuning(may 2003) the guy that designs honda motors said the tsx's k24 is the best motor they have built. it says the tsx's k24 uses high tensile steel in connecting rod bolts, more aggressive VTEC exhaust cam, increase compression, a second burn system, drive-by-wire, and the transmission case and bell housing is made of magnesium.
god damn K series, just when I feel like I really know the ins and outs of B seires...oh well gotta keep up, good thread
Hey, what about modifying a CRV w/automatic? What could u do to get more out of THAT K-Series engine?! Wouldn't THAT be interesting? My wife has one and I've been wondering what could be done to make it a sweet sleeper tuner. Any ideas?
This may be already be common knowledge, but it's a good blurp on the technical differences between the A2 and A3 heads, vtec etc.
"The K20A2 in the Type-S works the way you expect VTEC to work. The two camshafts are equipped with three cam lobes and rocker arms for each cylinder's pair of intake and exhaust valves. At 5800 rpm, oil pressure activates pins that lock the outer rocker arms to the center arm. This forces both valves to use the higher lift, longer duration center camshaft profile. However, this is augmented by VTC on the intake side, which manipulates the timing of the cam itself. This can be used to augment torque, reduce emissions or a variety of different things depending on what the computer thinks is best at the time. The RSX's K20A3, the Si's K20A and the CR-V's K24A1 use i-VTEC differently. First, it only operates on the intake valves. But even then, the philosophy is changed. Until the VTEC threshold is reached, the lesser K engines essentiality only use one intake valve per cylinder. The other is opened just a crack, enough to keep fuel from pooling behind the valve, but that's about it. In addition, the VTC is tuned primarily to keep emissions as low as possible. All this weirdness results in excellent swirl inside the combustion chamber and very efficient combustion. It's great for fuel efficiency and low emissions. However, it isn't so great for driving fun, as the engine inhales less deeply and revs lower."
A blurp on K series frankenstein motors.
"The K24A is more closely related to the K20A3 and K20A. While it uses the same i-VTEC tuning as those engines, it's the long stroke design that's intriguing. The difference is in the block. The K24's deck height is roughly 19 mm higher than its smaller siblings. It's also slightly bored, with 1 mm larger cylinders. The compression ratio is also down slightly from the non-Type-S engines, 9.6.1 vs. 9.8:1. So what? Well, the natural temptation is to throw the K20A2's efficient head onto the K24A1 block, raise the redline and have a torquey, ultra-powerful i-VTEC stroker Frankenstein monster engine.
The actual bolting on part wouldn't be too difficult, as the heads should mount right up. However, you do run into an issue with piston speed. At its 7900-rpm redline, the K20A2 in the Type-S has a piston speed of 4464 feet per minute (fpm). Thanks to its long stroke, the K24A1 comes close to that, running at 4225 fpm at its much lower redline of 6500 rpm. By the time you've spun your K24 up to just 6900 rpm, you're already at 4485 fpm, and at the 7900 rpm redline of the K20A2, you're at a crazy 5135 fpm. For comparison, even the hyperkinetic S2000 with its 9000 rpm redline doesn't exceed 5000 fpm (it maxes out at 49% fpm). And the Integra's B18C1 only reached 4573 fpm. Translation: If you're going to plunk a K20A2 head on a K24A1 block and redline the concoction to 7900 rpm without seriously building up the bottom end.. duck."
I thought you guys might be interested.
Source: Information on the K-series engines THIS IS A MUST MUST READ - Page 2 - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum
Lots of good info here.
Almost makes me want to stark with the K series.
I'm still a cheap bastard so not for a while.
You guys do realize that this thread is like 3 years old, right?
Just pointing that out in case they didn't realize it. The info in this thread is way outdated at this point, plus we don't need to be clogging up the forums with resurrected posts that nobody's posted on for years.
The mechanics of the head, engine etc are hardly outdated at this point. K20/K24 swaps are now becoming more and more popular to the mainstream, making this info/thread even more relevent. Look at how long the B series motors have been around for. I'd be hard pressed to say "we" know everything about that.
True, I guess. I'm not saying the info isn't relevant, just saying it's rather common at this point. Three years ago this thread would have been a gem, but now you can find specs on these motors most everywhere.
Anyways, nothing to get pissed about. I was mainly just informing them that the thread was three years old so as not to expect any responses.
hey guys my first time writing in a forum here. i just picked up a k24 from a crv , and planning on doing a head and high comp. piston swap , my question is is there head hight differences between the stock crv head and lets say a k20a2 or k20a head . I'm wondering about running issues like if there was a difference i would loose tdc or so called 00 on cam timing . I'm more familiar with b series and this would be my first k build . there was lots of issues with frankinstain setups in b series with deck hight differences between b18 b16 b18c1 where you'd run into problems trying to 0 in with the cam gears. thanks in advance.
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