kill switches/relays.

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GSRCRXsi

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ok since there was some talk of them in another thread i decided to make a thread soley about it. ive been thinking about it for a while and i wont put my crx back on the road til i have a nice kill switch. this is pretty much what i was thinking of doing.

gallery_1242_1_1102811722.jpg


this way you will have to put the car in the ON position, hold the switch, then start the car. just wondering what everytone else thinks about this. and maybe if anyone else has any better ideas to go about this,

note, i didnt completely make that pic, i altered it a little and i might not hook it to the starter signal, i might hook it to the fuel pump or somewhere else. also looking for ideas on this.
 
Oh I think I got it now.... you want to connect #30 from the right side relay to the #85 on the left, and not connect #85 on the left to the ignition 12V line. With the ignition 12V hooked up to #85, your switch is useless.
 
hcivic, the reason im using a relay instead of a switch is because theres potential problems using a switch. it could melt or break from too much current. a relay is much better.

mike, the reason i have 87 and 85 connected is so that the relay will be self sustaining once the car is running. 30 and 87 will both be from the two ends of the same ign. wire. cut the ignition wire and put the relay in the middle. the idea is to have to direction of current flow to be from pin 30 to pin 87. that way nothing gets power until i turn the key to the ON position (letting power run to the pin 30 and the switch) then you press the switch on the relay (which will open the switch in the relay and provide power to the 2nd relay to allow power to the pump) then after you start the car you can let go of the switch and the first relay will stay open because the switched wire is a power wire to run the relay. make sense?
 
Originally posted by GSRCRXsi@Dec 12 2004, 11:33 AM
hcivic, the reason im using a relay instead of a switch is because theres potential problems using a switch. it could melt or break from too much current. a relay is much better.

mike, the reason i have 87 and 85 connected is so that the relay will be self sustaining once the car is running. 30 and 87 will both be from the two ends of the same ign. wire. cut the ignition wire and put the relay in the middle. the idea is to have to direction of current flow to be from pin 30 to pin 87. that way nothing gets power until i turn the key to the ON position (letting power run to the pin 30 and the switch) then you press the switch on the relay (which will open the switch in the relay and provide power to the 2nd relay to allow power to the pump) then after you start the car you can let go of the switch and the first relay will stay open because the switched wire is a power wire to run the relay. make sense?
[post=430884]Quoted post[/post]​

no it wont the starter is not drawing a current from the wire it just activates a soliinoid. i have had the crappy 1.25 switch in my truck for a long time now ( it been under water more times than i can remember. so has everybody i know whit out a single problem just buy a better switch the cheapos break and fall apart after a year or so
 
umm i never said the starter draws a current. the starter wire is just going to be switched by the relay in the presence of a voltage. now that voltage will come from the first relay. and if the switch isnt held down, it wont get the voltage across its inductor to turn the switch on. you have to remember that the switch im gonna be using is a momentary switch. you dont flip it one way or the other. you press it down to complete the circuit but once you let off it opens again. so the first relay has to be self sustaining, or else once i let off the swich the car would shut off. that is the reason for the jumper from 87 to 85. since the switched wire is a power, you can split off of it to power the relay. but this requires an initial power to be added to start the system. thats where the momentary switch comes in.

heres a pic to show the how everything will flow.

gallery_1242_98_1102878312.jpg
 
Originally posted by hcivic.com@Dec 12 2004, 06:33 AM
rather than do all that work just hook up a on or off switch to the fuel pump
[post=430793]Quoted post[/post]​

Then you are starting your motor with no fuel for a second and i know i dont wanna do that. But you idea seems to work so far. When are you gonna attempt this? And if it works for you i will use it also. :D I have been meaning to do this for a while but there is alot of things that you shouldnt over look.
 
I really dont see why it is nessicary to cut the starter wire off unless the ignition is applied. If they are to the point where the car should crank, then ignition will be present and the only obsticle will be finding, or knowing about, your hidden switch. Make it simple, the bottom pinouts should work great.

87-- Motor side of starter wire
86-- Normaly CLOSED switch, with other side to 12 volt connection.
85-- Chassis Ground
30-- Key side of starter wire
87A-- No Use

Guess thats just another way, but either look great. On your diagram it calls for the switch to be normaly open, which would render it useless. Also, on the right relay, it shows the switch connected to 12volt ignition along with the oposite (sp?) side of the switch. This would cause nonthing more than 12volts switched any time the key is turned. If that was the case, you would probally eliminate the top right 12volt ignition and simply allow the switch and relay to control the 87 activation.

EDIT: 30-- Key side of starter wire
 
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