Lightening 90-91 hatch

[K2e2vin]

Lightening 89 hatch

Welp, I finally found something I can afford(but wasnt an HF CRX like what I was hoping for). Anyways, what should I do to get the weight down without stripping out too much? I was thinking about swaping my 88 CRX doors; but are the bolt holes for the pillar seatbelts there(if not, ima just install a bar and run a harness)?

88 CRX fontend(mainly corners, bumper, and fenders)?

edit; its a 89 hatch

 

[phunky.buddha]

Swapping parts from other cars really isn't going to make that much of a difference- except for getting rid of the door mounted seatbelts (if you have them). Your main weight savings are going to come from removing parts of your car. If you're not worried about safety, the bumper supports can go. Interior body panels can be taken out, package tray, cargo covers, and most importantly- the tar-like sound deadening material that coats your floorpan. Dropping your glass for Lexan can help, but is generally pretty expensive (unless you ghetto rig it) and not too street legal. Dumping the front cross-member for an aftermarket brace and traction bar set helps a bunch too. Gutting the hatch mechanism (or getting a fiberglass skin replacement) drops quite a bit.

Oh- the CRX doors won't line up to the hatch's roofline. They're different.

 

[Taco15]

man put the motor in a see how you like it.. the guy who i mentioned had the hf for never called me back. his rex is gutted. the only thing in it is the passenger door panel,ac controls,oem radio,dash and a obx racing seat on the pass. side. and an itegra seat on the drivers side. it sounds and looks awful. my car DX still has everything in it.......ok except for the bumper support. and i'll whip his ass anyday of the week.

 

[K2e2vin]

Well some guy on D-series got his 89 DX to about 1600-1700lbs, but its completely gutted(only driver's seat, etc.).

Main reason I want light stuff(like a light ass CRX HF), is because everybody wants me to race this 88-91 hatch that has a bolton B20(best of like 9.8 on street tires in the eighth...mainly because he's literally a ricer...his car was built by people hired by his bro, and lies about who he beats). I have never ran it before or any B20 EF before(only LSVTEC ones). All I have is a D15B... no torque . So I need the biggest advantage without having to spend money to make more power(hell, I barely have any money right now...part time sucks.)

 

[Taco15]

i'm talking to a guy right now about an 88hf for 1000 bucks. i'll let you know what i can work out

 

[K2e2vin]

its straight man, i managed to get a 89 dx hatch for $375

 

[K2e2vin]

 

[Taco15]

sir!!!!!!!! lol misterious black. hot ass color. but where your from i bet its ok. congrats on the ride dude. i guess i see if my mom wants the rex.

 

[K2e2vin]

Dude your mom would drive a rex? Thats awesome. My mom hates rexes and other small cars(shes a minivan type of person, though).

 

[Taco15]

Dude your mom would drive a rex? Thats awesome. My mom hates rexes and other small cars(shes a minivan type of person, though).

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/A26574B8-3F42-4F31-8760-EADE3FBBA6B1.htm
couldnt find any pics

haha who the hell do you thik is driving my fully built lsvtec! yes my mom loves ''the shoe.'' as she calls it. She has owned 2 crx's already. a 88 dx and a 91 si. she loves them. anyway. for this time only.......gut the freaking car. a b20 is not an impressive motot IMO. then a gain it was in a loaded 94 hatch.
gut the car just like his,take the front bumper support off, drive with a low gas take and smoke him. i think it would be a decent race. dont you have about 135 ish horses? i would think you have more from your sig. the b20 motor i raced just ran ''slow as bugars in a winter season.'' feel the vtec powa yo!.

 

[K2e2vin]

I already miss my CRX Hopefully I'll have more fun with the hatch.

I've never been to the dyno(I think I'm at like 105-110whp though, 130hp is factory at the crankshaft), all I know is I'm 70-100lbs lighter than him simply because my engine/transmission is smaller. I will just take your advice and strip it. Should I buy spare doors and gut them(leaving the impact beams in there though)? I will just take the hatch off; you can barely notice the difference with them off.

I *would* have more power but my camshaft is at Crower(and will be at other places probably), and I don't have my intake manifold/runners setup for my ITBs yet(still haven't had a chance to get to the machine shop). The hatch's fuel system isn't set up for the ITB's fuel rail either. So much stuff to do, but no time or $$$!!!

 

[Taco15]

just make sure your running to its full potential with what you have now. dont get new doors. just a waste imo. why buy doors only to use them during races? also keep the hatch. thats a little too desperate. if you lose you lose. if you win you win. thats all. you dont get a cookie for winning. i think you would have a chance. Again tune it with what you have, gut the interior and go race. get a video or show us some pics or something damnit!!!! by yhe way i am in no way encouraging you to street race. if you dont want to DONT DO IT. If you do take every precaution you can to protect yourself and others. best of luck!

edited

 

[K2e2vin]

This is at the track. I guess I shouldv'e mentioned earlier; it's either at Rockingham(1/4) or Piedmont(1/8). I'm sure there will be money on the line; gas money+car wash mainly. I probably won't be racing him until like 3 weeks though, mainly because my weekend is booked; hopefully he's still in town(he signed to join the Marines).

Mike stated that the CRX doors are different mainly because of the roofline; I was thinking of using those but taking the glass and upper part out and using those(I still have the doors off of one of my CRXs). Only problem is the seatbelt issue.

 

[phunky.buddha]

I don't know if the fender and door jamb fits will match up. It may not be just the roofline.

If you want to make sure you'll win, grab a used nitrous kit from someone and bolt it on. You can typically find used Zex kits for under $300. That'll pretty much guarantee that you'll be able to win.

Oh, just a hair under 10 seconds in the 1/8 is SLOW. He should be faster than that.

 

[Taco15]

I don't know if the fender and door jamb fits will match up. It may not be just the roofline.

If you want to make sure you'll win, grab a used nitrous kit from someone and bolt it on. You can typically find used Zex kits for under $300. That'll pretty much guarantee that you'll be able to win.

Oh, just a hair under 10 seconds in the 1/8 is SLOW. He should be faster than that.

i was gonna mention that too. i know a guy here who shot a 70 dry shot in his ls and did fine. i f he can beat on it and sparay it that much in a week you should be ok with one race. i think a 50 shot wet will more than enough to get a win.

 

[jlicrx]

Oh, just a hair under 10 seconds in the 1/8 is SLOW. He should be faster than that.

9.8 in the 1/8th is about 15.3 in the 1/4 - pretty slow indeed for a B20

 

[Taco15]

my friend ran a 14.5ish with a 45 wetshot on a loaded down 94 civic 4 door. The motor is slow period. very torqui yes. but slow in the top end. spray it and you'll take him. Or wait on your cams,itbs and such and take him all-motor. that will def. shut him up.

 

[K2e2vin]

9.8 in the 1/8th is about 15.3 in the 1/4 - pretty slow indeed for a B20

Yes, but is a D15B hatch any faster? lol.

I don't know if I can afford nitrous right now; bills bills bills. I'm only working part time!

 

[Taco15]

It'll probably come down to launching and shifting. The faster driver will win.

thats what it seems like. the horsepower-to-weight ratio is pretty close

 

[mylo]

hey man..nobody seems to be able to answer me this?! k...iv a 92 ESi Civic..woz burning oil and woteva, bla bla bla..... so got another engine, BUT! noticed the engine code on the old woz D16Z6.. An the new is D16V6 ?! ..the new one is still an ESi out of a 93 civic like? is there any difference or wot? ....plz help!