list of upgrades -Keep - Lose - or Change

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90crxb16a

Senior Member
I started reading up on turbo and it seams to be tricky. I can’t afford to blow my motor. I drive it every day to work. So I’m thinking of going with an all motor set up that way I can build it one piece at a time and NOT blow my shit up.

Below is a list of what I was going to start working toward. What I would like to know is “don’t need it†“get this instead†and “you really should do this alsoâ€



Following the air
______________
Cold Air intake (got it)
Throttle body (? Don’t think I need)
Skunk2 Intake manifold($250)
Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams($300)
Adjustable Cam gears($100)
4-2-1 header (?or 4 to 2)($200)
High flow cat($50)
2.5 mid pipe w/high flow exhaust(got it)

Following fuel
____________
fuel should be fine(I guess)

Following spark
_____________
(open for suggestions on spark)

Suspension and handling and Misc.
______________________________
Taciko blues(got it)
Ground control coilovers w/ tender springs in rear(got it)
22mm rear sway bar($150)
shock tower braces all the way around($75)
camber kit all the way around($175)
15 inch aluminum wheels (integra)(got it)
drilled break rotors(200)
front air dam($150)
Short shifter(I have one but I snapped of the threads, cheap POS)($100)
LSD($350)
Clutch(????)
Flywheel(???)
ECU(I guess hondata, the programmable one)




I know I could go a lot farther but this seems like something I could do 1 to 2 years($) and get speed increases along the way.(also prices are rough guestmits on good deals and used parts)
Im going start on the following air flow first.


My Currant setup
90 crx si
b16a1
currant mods are shown in list above
(want to keep it a sleeper)
0 weight reduction, nice leather seats and a quality system, (w/AC OOO-YEEAA)-------Florida
 
Following the air
______________
Cold Air intake (got it)
Throttle body (? Don’t think I need)
Skunk2 Intake manifold($250)
Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams($300)
Adjustable Cam gears($100)
4-2-1 header (?or 4 to 2)($200)
High flow cat($50)
2.5 mid pipe w/high flow exhaust(got it)
Click to expand...


add:
upgraded springs and retainers->skunuk2, toda, crower
good set of cam gears($180-200)->skunk2, spoon, STR
CTR header or comparable(4-1 design w/ 2.5in. collector)

Following fuel
____________
fuel should be fine(I guess)
Click to expand...


add:
walboro fuel pump($80-100) added insurance

Suspension and handling and Misc.
______________________________
Taciko blues(got it)
Ground control coilovers w/ tender springs in rear(got it)
22mm rear sway bar($150)
shock tower braces all the way around($75)
camber kit all the way around($175)
15 inch aluminum wheels (integra)(got it)
drilled break rotors(200)
front air dam($150)
Short shifter(I have one but I snapped of the threads, cheap POS)($100)
LSD($350)
Clutch(????)
Flywheel(???)
ECU(I guess hondata, the programmable one)
Click to expand...


add:
all hondata ecu's are programmable, which do you want?
Z10 engineering radius control arm (if you want, it will greatly improve your ability to get traction)
might as well get a Carbon fiber hood
battery relocated to trunk(spare tire well)


those are my thoughts any way.
 
great responce with real ideas, thanks

1.i thaught that springs and retainers would just alow me to run them harder. with this set up the stock ones would be ok???

2. hondata-cheapest one i could get away with and allow me to use all my motor has to offer(i will research that a bit more)

3. Z10 engineering radius control arm <-----that sounds great

4. vote 1 for the 4-1

MIKE

PS no carbon fiber hood. i like people to look under the hood or run me and wounder why i dont have 50 stickers on it....lol(Down with rice , its whats inside that counts) when i did my swap i hade the hood off, not a heavy part.
 
compression to 11.5:1. Hondata IM gasket. Port and polish and/or bore to 81.5mm I believe for that motor. I always mess up the correct safe bore size though.
 
no the gasket isnt for compression, he said im - intake manifold gasket from hondata. the unit is made of some type of plastic that keeps your manifold cooler than stock. :thumbsup: 60 bucks for one from hondata.
 
:werd: what he said sorry about the confusion. To raise the compression your going to use higher compression pistons. The IM (intake manifold) gasket is proven to raise HP by reducing intake manifold ambient air temp greatly.
 
i would recommend springs and retainers as well, only use stock valvetrain components if you plan on keeping the stock rev limit. but i used to have the stage1 cams and they like to pull past stock rev limit, so upgrade. you might want to consider the stage2's also, i think they cost the same but if you want to keep stock valvetrain and rev limit then the skunk2 stg1's are a good choice. everything else you have looks pretty good. you may want to get your TB bored out, i had mine done to 64mm for $150 from http://www.proflowdesign.com. not totally necessary though.
 
yea, stage 2 cams mean more than just buying them, you have to change other things.

how many rpms can stock valvetrain handle???

shit looks like my price tag went up due to springs and retainers but pulling past 8200
could make me giggle a little more

TB bore ---is it worth it?

thanx for your time guys

MIKE
 
Do not get cross drilled brakes. They are a total waste of money unless your doing 2-4 hour endor road races. Cross drilled brakes WILL NOT make you stop faster. They are like high temp brake fluid. They are protection against heat/brake fade. Get autozone rotors (like $20-30) and if you fuck them up, go to autozone and get a free set with there life time warrente, plus there blanks are good shit.
 
Originally posted by 90crxb16a@Aug 20 2003, 09:05 PM
yea, stage 2 cams mean more than just buying them, you have to change other things.

how many rpms can stock valvetrain handle???

shit looks like my price tag went up due to springs and retainers but pulling past 8200
could make me giggle a little more

Click to expand...

Just run an ITR intake cam, or stage one Skunk2's, your stock valve train may live past stock rev limit, but I wouldn't try it.
 
actually the only advantage to cross drilled rotors is weight reduction (it does little to nothing for cooling)
cross drilled rotors have less surface area for the pad to contact so there is less friction (ie: less braking power) compared to a blank rotor of the same size
they also are more prone to heat/stress cracks

cross drilled and slotted rotors were designed several years ago when brake pad material was very shitty... pads would produce gasses under the high temps from braking causing the pads to float on the rotors (no friction... ie: no braking power) so companies added slots or cross drilled their rotors (slots gave the gas an escape... cross drilling gave the gas somewhere to go and compress so the pad could still contact the rotor).... rotors also "glazed" easily under heavy braking, the slotted rotors helped with this by shaving the pads during braking to remove any possible glaze, once again less surface area = less friction = less braking power, also they eat up pads quicker

today the brake pad material is FAR better than it was several years ago when these style rotors were created
good pads will not produce gas and they will not glaze
so slotted rotors are absolutly worthless
and the only advantage to cross drilled rotors is weight reduction

but paying double for a rotor that gives less braking performance and is more likely to crack is kinda stupid if your reason for purchacing them is for better braking.... get some blanks with better pads and some good fluid (SS lines arent a bad idea either)

also ive heard that the autozone "lifetime" warranty actually only covers 2 sets of rotors (still not a bad deal.... but not as good as it seems)
 
Originally posted by 90crxb16a@Aug 20 2003, 12:05 PM
yea, stage 2 cams mean more than just buying them, you have to change other things.

how many rpms can stock valvetrain handle???

shit looks like my price tag went up due to springs and retainers but pulling past 8200
could make me giggle a little more

TB bore ---is it worth it?

thanx for your time guys

MIKE
Click to expand...

8400 rpm for skunk2 stage1s on stock valve train. if you're gonig to upgrade springs and retainers, go for the stage2's, if not, get CTR cams or the stage1's (CTRs can be found for less than the skunk2)
 
well dude, i didnt read any of the other posts. but my guess is to get a 4-1 header instead of a 4-2-1. u drive a b16a so u want to stick with a 4-1 to gain all the top end power u can, a 4-2-1 is for low end, and 4-1 is more top end. also, 99% of
4-1 header's show better #'s at the track then 4-2-1's. not always the case but most of the time. also go crower cams, they are alot cheaper and just as good. u can get a set of crower's with titanium springs/retainers for as much as a spoon/jun/or toda cam

also, a b16a in a CRX with cams, IM, i/h/e and a good set of springs and retainers with a good driver in a gutted CRX, SHOULD hit 13's. But u say ur running high 15's right now, and that is about a second off of where u should be. b16a hatches and CRX's here run 14.6's, a guy runs 14.8'-9's with stock airbox, manifold, and exhaust. ITS THE STOCK CX exhaust!, so u gottta learn to launch or shift better b4 u go getting all that power. also invest in a good clutch. ACT HD with 55% more gripping should be right for u. get your 60' down to 2.2 or 2.1 and u should be good to go.
 
i used a gtech on the street with radial tires

i know i know gtech is not suposed to be that acurate but it seemed to be consistant

whel im glad this will get me as fast as i want to be 13's all motor would be cool.
hopefully my kid does not starve along the way....lol

thanx for the crowers info. <--------------where to buy
 
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