little civic question!

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A

Akwhite18

New Member
Yes i have a 94 honda civic sedan. i just swapped out my old d15b7 for a b16a2 everything works great. but i still have a check engine light on.. the only thing i dont have hooked up is the knock sensor cuz when i got the swap the sensor was broke off. could that be it?. also when the Vtec kicks in it sounds really loud like an exhaust leak is that normal?. im not really sure. anyways this is my first swap so sorry for the dumb questions!

thanks!
 
well Im pretty sure your check engine light is from the knock sensor(saying u didnt hook it up). I also think vtec is suppose to be loud, I may be wrong though lol. Is your car running alright?
 
yes car is running fine hauls ass other then it says the motor red lines at 8200 an its hittin the red limiter at 7000????. anyways only reason i asked about the knock sensor was the company i got it from told me that sometimes even when its not hooked up it wont cause a light.
 
not sure exactly on that i forgot. its the one that came with the swap.. whats the possible reasons that would cause the early red line. you would think they would send the right one
 
Without the knock sensor signal the car will not go into open loop and vtec will not engage due to car being in "limp mode"
 
Pin in the knock sensor to the ecu and it will probably rectify the situation.
 
so the vtec is not fully kickin in correct? i know its working some cuz when i unplug the vtec you can tell.. anyways my prob is when i got the motor the knock sensor was broke off.. is there anyway around it?
 
Replace the knock sensor...no exception. Could save an engine. If vtec was kicking in...you will hear an audible change in exhaust tone and rpm will shoot up from 5600 to 8000 or 8200 depending on jdm or usdm at a quicker rate.
 
You will or should also feel a "boost" when vtec kicks in. If you have a check engine light and no knock sensor vtec will NOT engage.
 
ok i understand what ya saying. heres what i got.. i got everything wired vtec an all.. ok everything is plugged in buit the knock sensor cuz its broke off.. ok i need to replace that i know that.. ok its red lining at 7000.. an wont go past it.. ok. i unplugged my vtec ran the car. then ran the car with it plugged it the exhaust makes a louder noise after like 4500. an some what more power.
 
Fix the knock sensor before trying to diagnose the car. Diagnosing with a check engine light on and no knock sensor is a waste of time...Fix the knock sensor and get the CEL off. Then if you still have a problem start a diagnosis.
 
any ideas on a good place to get one.. i priced them new at like 150$.. also i will have to run my own wires to the ECU for the knock sensor right?
 
Try ebay or make a thread in the wanted to buy forum of this site. Yes, you will need to run a wire...single wire...from the knock sensor to the ecu. I forget what pin, but a simple google search will give you the connector and pin number. I am not trying to be a dick when I keep telling you to fix the knock sensor and cel first, but trying to diagnose a problem when you have a check engine light on and a sensor not plugged in is like trying cook a hamburger before you buy the meat...it just doesn't work.
 
i totally understand man. i dont know much but just enough to get my swap in myself cleanly. i had to use my stock harness from my D15b7. so the O2 sensor plug was in the front. an the B16A2s O2 sensor is on the down pipe. so i ran some longer wires an got that hooked up today.. so all i got left is that knock sensor. D3 is the pin it goes to..
 
yes...d3. I have a pic of the connectors at the ecu.
 

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Make sure you have solid connection for the o2 sensor wires. Solder and shrink wrap all splices. Same goes for the knock sensor...make sure connections are sound.
 
ok i just got me a knock sensor shipped for 70$ not bad i dont think.. anyways i dont have a soldeing gun to connect them wires like that i used metal connecters will that work?? are do i need to pull it all out an do something else??
 
I would buy a soldering gun and resin core solder. Voltage loss from bad connections at the o2 sensors could be bad and mean the difference of running too rich or too lean and not getting full power out of your combustion process. With the o2 sensors you are working with .1-.9 volts...which isn't a whole lot of voltage and if some is lost between bad connections it's not a good thing. Same goes with the knock sensor...I think it works on a 1 volt output. I would make sure the connections were perfect, even if that means buying a soldering gun and shrink wrap tubing.
 
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