Low dollar 12 second all motor update.

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2.0 liter eg, the type R suspension is KILLING you. remember, its heavier overall by at least 50lbs...plus its rotational mass which enables a honda to run well. consider you have 15 inch wheels and bigger rotors...which causes a lot of horsepower loss. if i were you, i'd go back to dx suspension in the front, with any rear disc four lug...with good rotors and good pads the car will stop well enough.

and all motor, this is definitely the best way to get into the 12's...

a friend of mine goes 12.5's with his d16z/crx with 50 shot routinely, and the car has been holding up for like 16 months now. of course, in florida everything is at sea level so we're not battling elevation.

great setup either way, 190+ whp is impressive.
 
Originally posted by no2psi@Oct 26 2003, 08:48 AM
2 liter EG-
Your numbers are 197whp and 150foot lbs? What is your set up?
I looked like you are using crower cams.
Click to expand...

my set up is pretty long and lengthy... if you want you can check out my hondashowoff.com page and it lists MOST of my upgrade on the car and some future plans... the future plans have thus far changed cause i've decided to change alot of things on the car to make it faster as well as more reliable...

oh and yes im using crower 63403 [stage 3 all motor cams]... i would be making more power but my compression sucks balls and they arent pushing the cams to full potential

=)

chet Posted on Oct 26 2003, 09:04 AM
2.0 liter eg, the type R suspension is KILLING you. remember, its heavier overall by at least 50lbs...plus its rotational mass which enables a honda to run well. consider you have 15 inch wheels and bigger rotors...which causes a lot of horsepower loss. if i were you, i'd go back to dx suspension in the front, with any rear disc four lug...with good rotors and good pads the car will stop well enough.

of course, in florida everything is at sea level so we're not battling elevation.

great setup either way, 190+ whp is impressive.
Click to expand...


yeah i know the suspension is truly killing me... when i got the slicks for the 5 lug i knew there would be a huge difference cause im running with 15's instead of the regular 13's... yeah i am planning on changing the suspension completely... i also am planning on lightening the actual body of the car alot more and Rob from RPS just finished prototyping a new clutch for the car so i'll be test running that clutch next season... wooo hoooo

BTW thank you very much for the compliments all :)
:woo:
 
no2psi,

With a low budget Ls/Vtec how do you engage Vtec?
Did you install a knock sensor?

EDIT:
Will a VAFC engage Vtec without one?

The reason I am asking is because you said you have a stock ECU chipped with a
B.S. ebay chip. So how do you run such high compresion with out detonating?
 
Originally posted by no2psi@Oct 24 2003, 04:51 PM
I understand that its fireing on the power stroke. So tell me how a car runs if you are trying to ignite after the compression stroke.. The car shouldnt even run.
You know ---suck-squish-bang-blow. Again if you are trying to ingite on after bang which is whats happening.
Click to expand...

the gas is still compressed when it ignites, just not as much as if it fired at TDC. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't run, it seems like it would be even smoother. you just won't make as much power. whats stock timing?
 
Is your head ported or just stock and witch head are you using b16 or gsr???
 
Originally posted by Seany-izzle@Oct 24 2003, 08:56 AM
ummm 1.1 reaction time???? werk on that and do a little weight watchers then you should be in 12's.
Click to expand...

the reaction time has NOTHING to do with your actual time in the 1/4

from the time you start is when the clock starts timing you
 
Originally posted by B16+Oct 24 2003, 01:28 PM-->
B16 @ Oct 24 2003 said:
Originally posted by SixtySecondAssassin@Oct 24 2003, 09:55 AM
no2psi
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
B16 @ Oct 24 2003 said:
@Oct 24 2003, 08:10 AM
Because the timeing gun show aprox 2 to 3 degrees after TDC.  Which would mean it fires on the exhuast stroke.  WTF is that about?
Click to expand...

that would mean it fires just after the power stroke right?, i.e. the piston is already on its way down.
Click to expand...

correct
Click to expand...

Regardless if the piston is on its way down, 2 or 3 degrees is nothing to worry about. Its a fraction of a second difference from where it should be firing. Unless u can rev past 10-11K it wont make a difference so dont worry about it bro.
 
With a low budget Ls/Vtec how do you engage Vtec?
Did you install a knock sensor?

EDIT:
Will a VAFC engage Vtec without one?
Click to expand...


I am using a PR3 ecu. I did not use a knock sensor. The "Spoon" chip deletes the knock sensor, O2 sensor and Vehicle speed sensor. I know this because My header has no O2 and my speedo doesnt work. I dont know if the Vafc will engage VTEC without have a VTEC ecu. I dont think so however. I want to say it interupts the single.


the gas is still compressed when it ignites, just not as much as if it fired at TDC. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't run, it seems like it would be even smoother. you just won't make as much power. whats stock timing?
Click to expand...


That makes sense. I was wondering how it was firing if it wasnt compressed. I think stock timing is 16 degrees before TDC. I am at 2 degrees after TDC. This is at 900 rpms or so. After 2000 rpm the timing just advances like crazy. When I started on the dyno it was at 16 degrees. And after every pull i took timeing away and I kept makeing more and more power. Until -2 degrees. Then i stopped. Like most fagit chips this one has wayyyyy to much advance. Mugen etc. I see guys drop these in and set timing and they are off. Then they wonder why they detonate.
:beat:



Calesta Posted on Oct 27 2003, 06:05 PM
Which transmission?
Click to expand...


I have a YS1. 92 -93 GSR cable. I think its the best all motor tranny for cars under 250whp.

shaneb Posted on Oct 27 2003, 08:01 PM
Is your head ported or just stock and witch head are you using b16 or gsr???
Click to expand...


I wish it was a GSR head, but i save those for the race car. Its a OBD 0 B16a head.
I feel I did a good job porting it. If that is what you want to call it. I just removed all the casting marks and smoothed it out. NOTHING RADICAL. It was very time consuming. Besides I dont want to do something that Guys like "Alaniz" can't undo.
That way if i ever get serious about this head.........hmmm.

MXDesa Posted on Oct 27 2003, 08:55 PM

QUOTE (B16 @ Oct 24 2003, 01:28 PM)
QUOTE (SixtySecondAssassin @ Oct 24 2003, 09:55 AM)
QUOTE (no2psi @ Oct 24 2003, 08:10 AM)
Because the timeing gun show aprox 2 to 3 degrees after TDC. Which would mean it fires on the exhuast stroke. WTF is that about?

that would mean it fires just after the power stroke right?, i.e. the piston is already on its way down.

correct

Regardless if the piston is on its way down, 2 or 3 degrees is nothing to worry about. Its a fraction of a second difference from where it should be firing. Unless u can rev past 10-11K it wont make a difference so dont worry about it bro.
2 litre EG Posted on Oct 27 2003, 08:19 PM

QUOTE (Seany-izzle @ Oct 24 2003, 08:56 AM)
ummm 1.1 reaction time???? werk on that and do a little weight watchers then you should be in 12's.

the reaction time has NOTHING to do with your actual time in the 1/4

from the time you start is when the clock starts timing you
Click to expand...


:thumbsup: For both of you gents.
 
Originally posted by no2psi@Oct 27 2003, 06:25 PM
I wish it was a GSR head, but i save those for the race car. Its a OBD 0 B16a head.
I feel I did a good job porting it. If that is what you want to call it. I just removed all the casting marks and smoothed it out. NOTHING RADICAL. It was very time consuming. Besides I dont want to do something that Guys like "Alaniz" can't undo.
That way if i ever get serious about this head.........hmmm.
Click to expand...

ahhh Joe over @ Alaniz... he's good peoples and does good work but he charges an arm and a leg

B)
 
Here is a picture of the header I am using. I will be trying to make a big tube 4-2-1 design next. 1 7/8 to 2 inch stepped. I think that this header is too small. And its not equal length either. Going for 200whp with all honda Internals.


header.jpg
 
Was it difficult to tune the car with the stock (ebay chipped) ECU???
I am wondering how with the CR you have???? <_<
 
gocivicls Posted on Oct 28 2003, 01:37 PM
Was it difficult to tune the car with the stock (ebay chipped) ECU???
I am wondering how with the CR you have????
Click to expand...


I dont think it was too difficult. The motor did follow the norms however. Response to cam timing etc.. As i retarded timing the motor would run more lean. The only explanation I could come up with is that the fuel was blowing by the spark with more advance. And when the timing was retarded it made for a complete burn giveing me a leaner reading on the Wideband. I expected to see increases in power from advance the intake timing but lost power, and actually ended up with slightly retarded intake cam timing. Exhaust cam like a lot of retarding aprox 5 degrees. The car was tuned on 100 octane just to be safe. I also used a heat range 7 NGK plug. You just have to know what your doing I suppose. This isnt the first car I have tuned either. Live and learn so of deal. I also to to run 48 psi of fuel at idle..
 
Thanks for the info. maybe it will help out tuning mine. I have 11.3:1 CR with an all-motor LS (CTR pistons). Was a little worried about the car running on pump gas/93 octane. but "LS/Vtec" says I will be OK, and I trust him.
 
Originally posted by no2psi@Oct 28 2003, 09:14 AM
Here is a picture of the header I am using. I will be trying to make a big tube 4-2-1 design next. 1 7/8 to 2 inch stepped. I think that this header is too small. And its not equal length either. Going for 200whp with all honda Internals.


header.jpg
Click to expand...

oh you bastard thats the header i wanted!!!

damn you lol

wanna sell it?

:)
 
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