LS in a 95 hatch axel and suspension?

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DragEvolution

Junior Member
I am going to do my suspension and wheels before the swap.. I am doing an Ls motor in a 95 hatch. My question is, are the wheel lug patterns the same? Another question is should i get the Apexi N1 Coilovers for the LS or for my car?I know i am changing out axels to ls so i am not sure if it is all the same fitment or how it works. I am not fammiliar with swaps so don't go hard on me.. Your help is most appreciated. Thanks
 
The lug pattern on Integras and Civics is 4x100. Exactly the same. Get suspension for your chassis, EG. The swap is really straight forward. The LS axles won't change any of your suspension's geometry or anything like that. Good luck, mang! :)
 
Definitly do the coilovers for an integra GSR 94-97. They bolt up and will compensate for the extra weight in the front end. I have a similar setup.
 
Dude, the B block in a Civic really does not make much of a weight difference at all. Coilovers for the EG chassis will be fine. Using them gaurantees perfect fitment. I mean... why not get the right parts? :huh:
 
considering the chassis are the same and they can use the same suspension parts it shouldn't matter although I would reccomend gettin civic parts becasuse theyre cheaper anyway
 
Originally posted by dohch22a4@Dec 4 2003, 10:27 PM
Dude, the B block in a Civic really does not make much of a weight difference at all. Coilovers for the EG chassis will be fine. Using them gaurantees perfect fitment. I mean... why not get the right parts? :huh:
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well the eg and the dc chassis are identical under the skin. And the extra weight does make a difference when you hit bumps and other objects. I have a 93' CX hatch with B18C1 and APEX(not A'pexi) full 22-way coil-overs and they fit perfect. The shock-body is the same exact design with the two cars just a sturdier spring for the added weight.
 
I understand that, I have an EG with a JDM b18c. What I'm saying is that any aftermarket "performance" spring is going to be stiff enough that there really is no noticable difference. It's really his choice. I'm just saying that the difference is there, just really not noticable unless you want to nitpick about it. It seems like you know your shit, mang, welcome to the board! :D
 
word, i feel what u are saying. Thanks for the welcome by the way.
 
I have a few more questions for you guys.. What kinda motor work would you recommend for a 13 second reliable car. I am building this as a play toy and want some speed but reliability aswell.
 
Originally posted by DragEvolution@Dec 4 2003, 10:42 PM
I have a few more questions for you guys.. What kinda motor work would you recommend for a 13 second reliable car. I am building this as a play toy and want some speed but reliability aswell.
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I/H/E, clutch, cams, good tuning, good tires, fpr. Those are the basics and that should out you in the thirteens. after that you can go to headwork, cam gears, LSD, traction bars, high c/r, etc..

oh yeah... lots of practice
 
Yeah, i was thinking the same. Just wasn't sure what i took to get this car into the thirteens. I don't want to go through the pain of turbocharging it. So i am looking at other options. Thanks to all for the advice. Volk Gram Light wheels are on the way. B)
 
All motor is the most expensive way to go slow. :D

Just playing, mang! I think all motor is really cool. After getting the motor's breathing sorted out, hot cams and high-compression pistons will be your biggest power adders, along with good tuning like Hondata or a "magic box" from someone like A'PEXi. Stay away from chipped ECU's, though. They usually run shittier than the stock brain will. Good tires will also improve your times drastically. Good luck, bro! :)
 
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