after a year or so of my car being on the side of the road I got the money for a motor I got a 98 LS full swap with an obd1 ecu is there any other parts I will need to do this swap to 93 eg hatch? I got trans, axels, ecu, harness, mounts and shift linkage is that it will this be painless
LS swap for the first time
- Thread starter eg93
- Start date
- Replies 9
- Views 971
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
beau_safken
Senior Member
Shoot dude...Painless would be getting a 94-95 LS motor. When I did my swap I waited till I found a 95 motor. IT was out of a LS automatic for the fact that I dont want and chance of a bad motor compression wise. Got myself an LS manual tranny with a ACT heavy duty clutch and all the bells and whistles.
Let me see if your parts are right:
Trans: What car did it come from and was the LS engine a manual or auto, did the tranny come with it?
Axels: Replace them with brand new GSR axels. I could have used the ones that came with the engine but why do that? IF you want to put power to the wheels at sometime you will be glad you invested in the GSR axels.
ECU: ITs a p72 right? I really forgot which one you need on the engine. But mine was with the auto engine due to the auto tranny sensor. IF you did have an auto tranny engine just loop the sensors and the check engine light is gone.
Harness: Duh...that one is good to go.
Mounts: Ok this one is wierd. In my case I needs a GSR rear and right side mount to fit the engine in the comparment properly. It took about 2 hours of jimmying to find that one out so just letting you know my pain if that helps any.
Shift linkage: Needs to br from a GSR to fit properly. Although if you have a welding setup...you can make your own. But if you want it to fit perfectly, the GSR linkage is great. Drop a good short shifter on there while you are at it. My god it makes such a large difference. With the B-series tranny compared to the D series...it will feel different for a while but the short shifter really is awesome.
FYI: What I thought would take a day or so to do the swap...ended up taking 3 weeks. There are a lot of things that break on the engine during shipment. I basically had to replace all the sensors on my engine along with the alternator and add a starter. Then after starting up the engine we found the oil pan leaked....and then some of the other parts needed worked on. Always assume the worst man. But its worth it...Good luck.
Let me see if your parts are right:
Trans: What car did it come from and was the LS engine a manual or auto, did the tranny come with it?
Axels: Replace them with brand new GSR axels. I could have used the ones that came with the engine but why do that? IF you want to put power to the wheels at sometime you will be glad you invested in the GSR axels.
ECU: ITs a p72 right? I really forgot which one you need on the engine. But mine was with the auto engine due to the auto tranny sensor. IF you did have an auto tranny engine just loop the sensors and the check engine light is gone.
Harness: Duh...that one is good to go.
Mounts: Ok this one is wierd. In my case I needs a GSR rear and right side mount to fit the engine in the comparment properly. It took about 2 hours of jimmying to find that one out so just letting you know my pain if that helps any.
Shift linkage: Needs to br from a GSR to fit properly. Although if you have a welding setup...you can make your own. But if you want it to fit perfectly, the GSR linkage is great. Drop a good short shifter on there while you are at it. My god it makes such a large difference. With the B-series tranny compared to the D series...it will feel different for a while but the short shifter really is awesome.
FYI: What I thought would take a day or so to do the swap...ended up taking 3 weeks. There are a lot of things that break on the engine during shipment. I basically had to replace all the sensors on my engine along with the alternator and add a starter. Then after starting up the engine we found the oil pan leaked....and then some of the other parts needed worked on. Always assume the worst man. But its worth it...Good luck.
92civicb18b1
The Trisexual
LS mounts should work, as well as the shift linkage it defenitly won't cost more than 150, you can get it new? at hasport. Use the axles you got now until they break or just need to be replaced.
I'm in the process of puttin my ls in my hatch also, and I have'nt had any problems yet, keyword yet, I need a couple of sensors though, my shift linkage hasn't arrived and I just decided to replace my axles, since they're not that expensive anyway. I bought the worng ecu so it's off to the junkyard to try and trade it. Anyway good luck.
I'm in the process of puttin my ls in my hatch also, and I have'nt had any problems yet, keyword yet, I need a couple of sensors though, my shift linkage hasn't arrived and I just decided to replace my axles, since they're not that expensive anyway. I bought the worng ecu so it's off to the junkyard to try and trade it. Anyway good luck.
HatchSpeeD
...Hi...
Originally posted by beau_safken@Oct 10 2003, 04:35 PM
Shoot dude...Painless would be getting a 94-95 LS motor. When I did my swap I waited till I found a 95 motor. IT was out of a LS automatic for the fact that I dont want and chance of a bad motor compression wise. Got myself an LS manual tranny with a ACT heavy duty clutch and all the bells and whistles.
Let me see if your parts are right:
Trans: What car did it come from and was the LS engine a manual or auto, did the tranny come with it?
Axels: Replace them with brand new GSR axels. I could have used the ones that came with the engine but why do that? IF you want to put power to the wheels at sometime you will be glad you invested in the GSR axels.
ECU: ITs a p72 right? I really forgot which one you need on the engine. But mine was with the auto engine due to the auto tranny sensor. IF you did have an auto tranny engine just loop the sensors and the check engine light is gone.
Harness: Duh...that one is good to go.
Mounts: Ok this one is wierd. In my case I needs a GSR rear and right side mount to fit the engine in the comparment properly. It took about 2 hours of jimmying to find that one out so just letting you know my pain if that helps any.
Shift linkage: Needs to br from a GSR to fit properly. Although if you have a welding setup...you can make your own. But if you want it to fit perfectly, the GSR linkage is great. Drop a good short shifter on there while you are at it. My god it makes such a large difference. With the B-series tranny compared to the D series...it will feel different for a while but the short shifter really is awesome.
FYI: What I thought would take a day or so to do the swap...ended up taking 3 weeks. There are a lot of things that break on the engine during shipment. I basically had to replace all the sensors on my engine along with the alternator and add a starter. Then after starting up the engine we found the oil pan leaked....and then some of the other parts needed worked on. Always assume the worst man. But its worth it...Good luck.
Just out of curiousity, where did you get your engine swap from?
beau_safken
Senior Member
Well boys,
In order to get the Acura parts you need well....And acura dealer.
The mounts are OEM acura GSR mounts, they run about 50 bucks a piece. The GSR shift linkage was around 150'ish. I would sooooo get the new axles. The ones that I got from the dealer have a lifetime warrenty so no matter how they break I can get brand new ones. Spend the money now while your car is in pieces...or pay more later.
The LS mounts are a "supposed" to work thing. But it rarely does from the experiences I have had and others I know. Even if they say the LS mounts will work it will be a tight squeeze. Go with what works...but spend the money now and life will be a lot easier. Plan Plan Plan.
Yo Hatch I got my engine from Scotts auto salvage in Fort Collins, CO. The engine was from an Automatic 1995 Integra LS..Four door. The accident took the whole front end but the engine was fine. I chose to wait for an automatic engine because since 99/100 times the place will never do a leak-down test...and automatic engine was the best bet. I just left the tranny to them and did my own. It's hella easy after that. I had an LS tranny so the clutch setup was a great idea. I tell you this from the bottom of my heart. Spend the 500 dollars on a Heavy Duty ACT Pressure plate and a SS clutch...You will freakin love it. I can out gun a lot of people just because I never slip.
Need any other questions or helpful tips?
In order to get the Acura parts you need well....And acura dealer.
The mounts are OEM acura GSR mounts, they run about 50 bucks a piece. The GSR shift linkage was around 150'ish. I would sooooo get the new axles. The ones that I got from the dealer have a lifetime warrenty so no matter how they break I can get brand new ones. Spend the money now while your car is in pieces...or pay more later.
The LS mounts are a "supposed" to work thing. But it rarely does from the experiences I have had and others I know. Even if they say the LS mounts will work it will be a tight squeeze. Go with what works...but spend the money now and life will be a lot easier. Plan Plan Plan.
Yo Hatch I got my engine from Scotts auto salvage in Fort Collins, CO. The engine was from an Automatic 1995 Integra LS..Four door. The accident took the whole front end but the engine was fine. I chose to wait for an automatic engine because since 99/100 times the place will never do a leak-down test...and automatic engine was the best bet. I just left the tranny to them and did my own. It's hella easy after that. I had an LS tranny so the clutch setup was a great idea. I tell you this from the bottom of my heart. Spend the 500 dollars on a Heavy Duty ACT Pressure plate and a SS clutch...You will freakin love it. I can out gun a lot of people just because I never slip.
Need any other questions or helpful tips?
92civicb18b1
The Trisexual
O I paid, 1175 for my motor, axles (I broke them), half of the linkage, ecu, wiring harness, and wrong ecu (i traded it for the right one). The good part was I got it with about 30k miles on so it was well worth it.
