LS Turbo Suggestions

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jtornado

jtornado

New Member
I plan on boosting somewhere near 300WHP. It would be a daily driver and I would like it to be very reliable. So therefore I do care about gas mileage.
I kinda have a setup already tell me what you guys think:

Port and Polished Head
Skunk2 Valve Train
ARP Head Studs
Wiseco Forged Pistons
Eagle H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
ACL Race Bearings
Stage 2 Crower Camshaft
Turbo Kit
3"Exhaust
 
True well first what do you think of the setup??? What is better buying a turbo kit or custom my own???? What kind of injectors?????
 
Whether you buy a kit or piece one together depends on what you want to spend and how much patience do you have. I am piecing one together with all new parts and will save a bit of money and get better parts than some things you get in kits. Drawback is the amount of time it takes to find the best deals. It depends on your preferences.
 
Yea I understand what you mean. What is a better engine swap for my eg6 like an ls boost, ls all motor, gsr boost, gsr all motor...ect????? I want something realiable, strong, fast and cheap. I hear vtec is a problem with boosting.
 
Well see.... would it be worth going ls boost or something faster and more reliable??? im not to worried about money right now I could spend $5000 into the motor and not care. See what really wants me to have a fast motor is feeling my friends gsr, I love how it pulls me back to my seat and its pretty damn quick. Also im looking for something to save gas but still be fast for a daily driver. should I go itr motor or gsr or ls boost...or what? im just confused.
 
Im sticking with b-series. not to much of a sohc fan. what do you think about vtec???? is it worth boosting or should I just rather boost ls????? Or build a b18c block with dart sleeves, 9.0:1 wiseco pistons, 10 psi??? well answer this first. which is better all motor or boosting???
 
Okay the obd-1 ls motor has 145hp and 127trq thats pretty good torque. If I do an ls/vtec would I still be able to get my low end torque near the horsepower??? See the reasons why I want the ls motor so bad is 1. strong block 2. low compression 3.great low end torque and im just wondering if I should just put a vtec head to give it that little extra horse and torque and to keep my rpm's climbing. Is it worth putting a vtec head on or would I just being making it less reliable. I picked 2 of the 3 you wanted me to pick and I chose reliable and fast, its gonna be a daily driver and I plan on taking it to the drag strip atleast once a year. If im boosting 7-15psi for a daily driver then people said I want a 63mm trim on one of the sides and 60mm trim on the other side. Is that considered a medium size turbo.??? See this is what im thinking for setups.

Strongest vtec block for b-series
9.0:1 compression wiseco pistons
Dart Sleeves
Skunk2 valve train
Crower Cam
ARP head studs and rod bolts
Eagle H beam rods

or

B18b OBD-1 block
9.0:1 compression wiseco pistons
Dart Sleeves
Skunk2 valve train
Crower Cam
ARP head studs and rod bolts
Eagle H beam rods

or

B18b OBD-1 block with best vtec head for ls/vtec
9.0:1 compression wiseco pistons
Dart Sleeves
Skunk2 valve train
Crower Cam
ARP head studs and rod bolts
Eagle H beam rods
 
Last edited:
That setup is some what confusing. Why would you put 10:1 compression pistons and then turbo it??? How much horsepower would you expect just from that setup you just posted???
 
Blanco said:
It's the stock compression ratio. I'd want to use flat top or slightly dished pistons and then reduce the size of the combustion chambers to bring the compression back up. This will help the flame front to travel and the compression gives good off-boost power. You could easily get 500whp+ out of that with proper fuel management. Not something you'll want to daily drive on the street though.
Click to expand...
DON'T FORGET TO TAKE INTO CONCIDERATION THE UPKEEP COST ON THIS ALSO, LIKE BLANCO SAID TIRES SUSEPNSION AND BREAKS WILL WEAR AND NEED TO BE REPLACED ( SORRY FOR STAING THE OBVIOUS) AND THAT COST IS A BIG CONCIDERATION TO ME. IF YOU DUMP YOUR 5K INTO THE CAR AND HAVE NOTHING LEFT OVER BUT MONEY PROBLEMS THE COST OF NEW TIRES EVERY 4 MONTHS IS GONNA SUCK
 
His motor is completely stock which would mean he doesn't have max over-bore. See in that kit it said CTR pistons in gsr block/head will raise the compression to 12.4:1 and tested over 300 horsepower with proper fuel and tuning. Would it be safer to by dart sleeves or whatevers safe or is it safe enough to run 12.4:1 with about 300 horsepower???
 
Wow dude sorry I blew up.........im just trying to find a quick answer so I dont have to take 3 hours of researching.
 
Yea true I understand. I have a question now. How come on my motor thats in there now is only getting like 257 miles in a tank. thats like 23 mpg. Would you have any idea why im not getting good gas mileage and my performance is slow. I have a rebuilt d16z6, bored .020 over, nology hotwires, skunk2 intake manifold, helical throttle body spacer. is it possible that my valve timing is off or could it be that my intake manifold or what do you think???
 
lol okay I dont think you understand. my throttle response is still retarted even after I advanced the timing.
 
That im not sure but its quiet when it idles and runs but its just im getting bad gas mileage and bad throttle response. Is there any easy way to take off my timing belt cover not just the top cover but all so bottom(the one thats actually behind the harmonic balancer). Could I just take out the motor mount on the side to get better access????
 
along time ago. my shop has a timing light but I cant tell if its advanced or not cause it keeps moving. I did turn my distributor to the advanced side but im still getting shitting gas, performance, throttle response.
 
I think im swapping my intake manifold cause I took off my throttle body spacer and im getting a little better throttle response. Before to me it sounded like it was feeding it to much air so it bogs in low rpm.
 
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