Ls/vtec Build

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Mech

Banned
I plan on buying a B16a LSD swap from hmotorsonline this summer and using my LS block to to build the LS/VTEC. Heres what I'll do:

port and polish head
get new OEM rod,main, and head bolts.
use the B16 oil, and water pump
buy new rod and main bearings
replace head gasket
B16 tranny
do the tapping and boring of the guid pin holes

anything else?, and does this sound reliable enough? I don't plan to take the motor over 7300 RPM's because the B16 loses power there anyway. What else should I do but for not very much money. I'm not boring, sleeving or anything else that involves too much time. So help is appreciated. :worthy:
 
what?>?

my b16 made power to 8250 and get arp rod bolts and head studs.
the the mains and rod bearings is a good idea. the headgasket.. use the LS one..
 
The b16 makes power to 8300, yea. But the power starts to decrease at 7300. I've seen the dyno test done before. Besides I shouldn't take the LS/VTEC over 7300 because of the chance of spinning a bearing or worse, breaking or warping a rod.
 
Every dyno is different, the one you saw may have been stock, or with simple bolt ons. With some internals, you can still produce power over 8000 rpms easily.
 
well yeah, with a little head work you can obtain power, but the B16 that I was talking about was stock. Any other comments on my build. Can I get a life estimate?(how long will it last with this build?) What would you do different? Tell me. The more info the better. :D
 
The stuff about not revving past 7300 RPM is :bs:
Life really depends on how you break it in, how you build it, and how you drive it.
 
It seems like anytime asks a question here, noone really tries to answer it, they just cockblock the thread with a petty argument to see who knows more. If i could help i would....but i know nothing about B16s.
 
Originally posted by T0mMuNi$m@May 17 2003, 06:08 PM
It seems like anytime asks a question here, noone really tries to answer it, they just cockblock the thread with a petty argument to see who knows more. If i could help i would....but i know nothing about B16s.

very, very, very true.
 
sorry to point out the fact that my b16 made power to 8250 rpm.
sorry to point out the fact that you can rev an lsvtec past 7300 rpm.

i'm merely pointing out that you will not be satisfied only revving that engine to 7300. it doesn't even start to open up until then.

my head had no port work or anything on it when i got the dyno done. it was with ctr cams, however properly tuned stock cams can make power to 8200 easily.
 
Wooo, just because an engine starts to lose power at a higher RPM, doesnt mean that it has less than after your shift. My LS redlines at a tiny 6500 RPM, when i drive it around town thats all i ever take it up to. But when i race the baby goes up to 7200 all the way down the track. I used to only go to 6500, and i ran lowest 15.28, now i take it up to 7000-7200, and ive dropped to 14.91, yes it loses power after 6500, but that power is still higher than if i shift into my next gear.dont b stupid, if your going to build an LS/Vtec, your want to use vtec for more than 2500-3000 RPM. Build it well, and take it up to 8500 when racing and u will have a nice setup.
 
try to get some cams, itr ones maybe. the higher(rpm) you make your torque, the more horsepower you will have but with the ls block you may limit you. i would recommend getting a gsr crank so you can rev a little higher, which you can install while putting in those rods and bearings. i think you would need a kit for the vtec conversion. with the gsr crank and b16 head w/itr cams you pretty much have a itr motor, without having to get a vtec block.
 
try to get some cams, itr ones maybe. the higher(rpm) you make your torque, the more horsepower you will have but with the ls block you may limit you. i would recommend getting a gsr crank so you can rev a little higher, which you can install while putting in those rods and bearings. i think you would need a kit for the vtec conversion. with the gsr crank and b16 head w/itr cams you pretty much have a itr motor, without having to get a vtec block.

Or not, you wont have a vtec motor, b/c u dont have anything that will produce vtec, like the solinoid, and its not a Kit, its a head that u gotta redrill the LS for oil passage, and thats about it. also, the block doesnt make it a vtec, the head does, the Vtec block is just made to withstand the high rev's and power a vtec puts out. The ITR cams... although they will work, for the money they arent near the best you can get, if your on a budget look into crower or ( forgive me god) good regrind. if you have a little $$ to spend get a higher priced jun or something like that, also to get the most benefit from your car, Port and Polish ur head until u cant port and polish no more.
 
I'd like to agree with Pills on this one...

My STOCK obd0 B16a's (I/H/E) power curve on the dyno sheet never crested. It kept climbing til it floated the valves at 8400. I have the dyno sheet to prove it.

I wanted to rev it to 9k or higher, but never forked out the money for valve srpings, because there were so many other mods to throw on the car to see how it reacted.
 
This is what you want to do.... go port polish your b16 head... get some jun 3 cams.... some ultra lite cuningham rods... use ctr pistons.. arp bearings.. use a type r crank and put an lsd b16 tranny with an act clutch.. get that shit tunned and if built right and broken in properly when you race shift that baby at 9700... you should be making like 215whp :worthy: with a good race header gutted cat...
 
use the B16 pistons. They press right on the LS rods, and will give you a great street compression (11.4/1) with the B16 head.
ARP rod and head bolts are a good idea. This motor will EASILY make power to 8000. :spin:
 
i have the same concerns as mech, doing a 91 ls with93 jdm sir and 98 gsr tranny and vtec silinoid(including clucthmasters stage3 clutch and 9 pound flywheel, aem fuel pressure regulator <_< just wanted anybodys incite on that?
 
use the b16 pistons, get ARP rod bolts, get new crank and rod berings, if you want to, shotpeen your LS rods, and buy a kit that does not require drilling if you want... but other than that it should be fine.
 
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