LS/VTEC Questions

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brett_the_madman

New Member
ok this is probably going to be long but i was wanting to get some more power out of my 92 GS teg. i am planning on doing the ls/vtec but before i order everything and start building i was wanting to know if i am doing everything right and if everything will run good on the setup i am using for use as a daily driver on pump gas. here is a list of everything i am planning on doing. please let me know if there is something i am missing or something i need to change or if any of this is unnecessary. thank you. oh ya and the only mods i have already is the typical i/h/e

itr crank
VTEC water pump
itr/gsr oil pump
gsr timing belt
golden eagle ls/vtec kit
gsr distributor
b16 intake and throttle body
stage 3 clutch
gsr computer
Port and Polish
Balance the rotating assembly
JDM p30 81mm b16a pistons
LS Rods
GSR tranny
SI head with skunk2 stage 1 cams, Type-R Valve Train, Skunk2 cam gears, Type-r Inner
and Outer springs w/ retainers
P28 rechipped with a higher rev limit for VTEC
VAFC
RC 310 cc injectors
Holley 255 pump
adjustable FPR with gauge
crank brace/girdle and an Oil cooler from a GSR 94-95 or ITR
ARP Rod Bolts
Clean & Hone cylinder walls
Replace the main and rod bearings
Replace all gaskets (ie. Oil pan gasket, rear main seal, Oil return gasket, oil filter, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold)
 
a few things i wouldnt do:

type r crank? why? i dont think this will work without a lot of mods someone correct me if im wrong.

gsr computer and p28? why?

type r valvetrain again why? cost will be slightly more for better parts.

si head will work fine but personally i would go with a gsr head for a bump in compression.

i hope you have some budgeted for that build and this isnt a dream list because port and polish and the rest of the engine work and you are looking at around 2k done properly.

crank brace will have to be custom fit again why? golden eagle makes one and so does function7


b16 throtlle body???? why? choke things up?

check my sig bud i did it the cheap way and it was still expensive.
 
what throttle body, ECU, crank, and valvetrain would you put on there? i want to do things as cheap in price as possible (you probably couldnt tell from the list haha) and still reliable cuz the last thing i want is for my daily to blow up lol but i was just wanting to have some more experienced help on what individual things to do or use. they are just preferences from other people i have talked to cuz i dont really know that much about hondas cuz this is my first but i want to know what is necessary and what isnt. thanks for the help.
 
Im going to clear a few things up after vtecsir1:

I wouldnt neccissarily change the crank, no mods will be needed to use it, but its not going make any difference.

I dont know what the "gsr computer" is, but if your getting a chipped p28, I highly suggest getting your ecu tuned with your motor after the build is done. trust me, youll get ALOT more out of your build this way.

you can never go wrong with dual valve springs (unlike what vtecsir1 is trying to tell you) this will keep you valves from floating at higher rpm. TRUST ME, the 3rd lsvtec I built hit 9500 with no problems.

I suggest getting the timing belt that matches the head. and to clear something up about heads: its not the head that gives the gsr slightly more compression, its the pistons.

once again, you cant go wrong with a crank girddle. no mods should be needed for this either, honda was nice enough to tap the holes in most the b series blocks :)

the b16 throttle body wont "choke" your build up, but it is kinda small for the air flow your wanting. I suggest getting it honed along with the intake manifold, or just get an aftermarket set, like Skunk2

I would also recommend upgrading your cooling system (aka radiator) a modded engine produces excess heat that a stock radiator cant handle, thus blown headgaskets or worse are born
 
alright ya i didnt kno if the crank was necessary so i was questioning it cuz it was kind of expensive. i just heard somethin about someone putting it in for insurance but thats not really something i need and i am definently going to tune it with my boy that owns a shop around here after i build it so what would you suggest for the tuning? and yea i forgot to delete the gsr computer from the list after i decided to go p28. what kind of valvetrain did you use? how much will the girdle cost me and how much would i benefit fropm putting it in? and what pistons did you use? i plan on upgrading the radiator. have any ideas what would be best? or if i should upgrade more than the radiator. and i will look up skunk 2 manis/throttle bodies and consider them now. thanks again. and sorry for all the questions but thats how you learn i guess ;)
 
it has to be OBD1 for most tuning programs, but look up a program called "Chrome" its pretty much free, and does the same thing hondata does. on my first 2 hybrids, I used stock heads (both B16) the only difference was the pistons I used (1st one I used LS because the guy I built it for was turboing it, and the 2nd I used ITR) you dont really have to upgrade the valvetrain with stage one camshafts, but if you want to reach an RPM greater than 8200, you deffinately need to. stock Type R dual valvesprings and valve retainers should do the trick for your applications. as far as the crank support, you can pull that off any B series VTEC engine, both 1.6 and 1.8 alike, its all the same. a new one Id figure cost around 120ish if you choose that route. the purpose of a crank brace is to ensure your crank doesnt bend under high stress and rpm, hence all the B series VTEC motors come with them lol. if your crank bends, you could do anything from spinning a bearing to having your rods twist and come out the side of your block..... really fast. if your going all motor, B16 pistons is your base set to go with. if you want a little more compression, use GSR pistons, Ive never really seen that much more of a difference with Type R pistons since it gives the same compression ratio as the B16 set. if you plan on boosting your motor, youd be better off using LS piston. they have a lower compression ratio, therefore you can use more boost :) JVTR makes some pretty good aluminum radiators, but the brand is really up to you. a low temp thermostat comes in handy too, it opens at a lower temperature, which is much better than removing the thermostat all together, which people are crazy enough to do. be careful when buying an aftermarket ratiator too, alot of them are thicker than the stock one, so youd end up needing a slim radiator fan to make it all fit. you never learn without asking, so I dont mind the questions at all. and if you have trouble finding the right valve springs and retainers, let me know, I have an extra set
 
wow, first of all superwho it is the gsr head that gives more compression. why dont you check out the combustion chamber and see if you notice anything? thats my gsr head I used, the combustion chamber is smaller which would do what/ thats right raise compression.

second i never said dont get dual valve springs, what i said was dont buy type r shit when you can buy btter performing parts for slightly more money. go ahead and just throw a crank girdle into the block and see how that works out for you.

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hey ppl i have a 2003 toyota matrix xrs and the vtec kicks in at 6 rpm and i what it to kick in at 5 rpm,, does any body have any idea on how to do that, and how much im going to have to pay for it?
 
hondaprofessor said:
im doing a ls vtec now ls block and crank should i use girdle ? i got gsr girdle and oil pan should i use it or no>?
Click to expand...

idk said:
hey ppl i have a 2003 toyota matrix xrs and the vtec kicks in at 6 rpm and i what it to kick in at 5 rpm,, does any body have any idea on how to do that, and how much im going to have to pay for it?
Click to expand...

Way to bump a dead thread. Start your own threads and use the search bar.
 
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