ls vtec

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lol...^^^^^^^^^^^^^....

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LS crank.
 
I do this from my HTC EVO smart phone I'm sorry its just faster
 
Today's youth (he's 24 so that is young to me.....oh the memories lol) they find nothing wrong with incorrect usage of words if it makes things quicker. The "Me" generation wants it instant and would rather not think about the specifics of English grammar......I deal with it everyday. If I see IDK written on a problem....a part of me dies lol. Can you imagine how lazy the next generation will be? It will be like Wall-E.

For the OP......this site gets flooded with inquiries from a variety of youth. Many of these youth's passion for Honda is fleeting at best and their knowledge is mostly hear-say. So when we read thread after thread of inccorect grammar and direct questions not being answered....it gets frustrating. Thus the negativity you are getting a glimpse of. You thought you explained how you know the crank was bad....but you never did. And then you get mad and claim that such info was already given. Hopefully you notice that you never did......after many attempts (by us) asking you to clarify.

If you took that crank to some V8 machine shop.....they know very little about our motors. Having them work on a Honda motor can be a dangerous situation.....lol...serious. But if the crank is bad........I say GSR crank and appropriate rods for the GSR crank (after market or OEM) You cannot grind a Honda crank like some V8 crank. The heat coating on them would be gone.....micro-polish is the only option.
 
What i think you should do is just get another ls short block and put it back to gather. Instead of going threw all that machine shop jazz. Thats what i did with my ls-vtec EG it took me and my wife a weekend to get it back on the road.
 
Sorry about that. The crank has deeply scaring , and the machine shop is a old shop and thay do build a lot of v8 s . It was out of round so I dont think I can do any thing about it. The thing is I got a good car with a really good motor with a spun bearing I want to fix it the right way so it will last as long as possible. I don't want to change the rods so I think I have to go with a ls crank, or do I. That's what I need to know. It will be ran hard I live right by VA. Motor sports park so I have a safe place to run it. So stock or aftermarket. The person who I bought it from spent a lot of money on it a didn't change the oil or keep it in the motor so it spun the bearing. I don't think it was a bad setup he just didn't take care of it. His loss is my gain I just got lucky.
 
Thanks but everything is there I would be buying a block for no reason I see no need for that the block is in good shape all o need is a crank and to know what crank to use. I've already ordered a new eagle rod to match the rest and I'm going with acl bearings and a golden eagle head gasket
 
In all honesty....its a Frankenstein and, in my opinion, it will be a long lasting set up if its driven hard (like it should). Its a bottom end meant to rev 2K rpm's less than it wants to make power with the VTEC head. But an LS crank will work. Just have it micro polished ($150-200) to get it nice and balanced and at least plasti gauge for bearing clearances. I know you said no to OEM bearings but I prefer them :shrug2: but I am an OEM whore in many ways.
 
I trust LSvtec engines and Just high revving LS engines like my own!

Here are a few options

The cheap

Stock LS crank all new bearings (rods and mains)

Disassemble, clean, lube with light oil(wd-40), take crank to machine shop and have them clean and balance the crank, start by measuring crank journals both rod and main, figure out what size bearings you need (if you cant do this or dont have micrometers then have your machinest do this), plasti guage and torque to spec (one at a time and in order), if clearances are in spec then assemble bottom end with lots of assembly lube, clean strainer and pick up tube, clean oil pan, reassemble and idle car untill it comes up to temp.

Drain your oil and tune tune tune! Please tune this engine it will die in a short time if its not tuned. Also a chip IS NOT A TUNE.

Power

Gsr crank, GSR rods, fully balanced internals (pistons rods and crank), 98+ gsr watter pump, 98+ gsr oil pump, new OEM gsr Tbelt, Oem gaskets, OEM bearings, block and rods line honed, and same thing as above.

forgot to add a gsr girdle for the mains and main studs vs bolts. if you add a girdle make sure you refurface both surfaces the girdle is going to mate and line hone mains.

Follow this and you will have a mean street machine.
 
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98EkSi said:
On a LS Vtec you use a LS head gasket. As for bearings I would also go OEM.
Click to expand...

you have to pull off a few brass rings or else the head and block will not mate correctly.

you can also run into oil leaks if you do not do this.
 
tazinva said:
Why do u say oem will it take the abuse that's a high rpm
Click to expand...

Yep they will no problem. Done a few and seem a few high hp B series running stock bearings. IMO Honda OEM bears are the best and can handle pretty much anything you can throw at them. I have never seem a OEM bearing fail just because it was OEM. As for the OEM head gasket Honda uses a metal 3 layer stock so there is really no need for an aftermarket one like Greddy, HKS or Cometic. Just use a stock head gasket for the block you are using along with ARP head studs and it will hold.
 
Magana559 said:
you have to pull off a few brass rings or else the head and block will not mate correctly.

you can also run into oil leaks if you do not do this.
Click to expand...

No you dont. The brass rivets that hold the gasket layers together will not hit the head or block, they will hang out over the block and do not get in the way. I have always used LS head gaskets on LS Vtecs. I recently finished my personally LS Vtec used an unmodified B18B1 OEM head gasket with OEM GSR head bolts and I have no leaks of any kind. To confirm lay the LS gasket on the block and look at how it all lines up then lay it on the head and do the same. The brass rivet on the back sider clears the head and block just fine. Here is a pic comparing the 2 I also did this to compare myself, I have a perfectly good B16 head gasket because of it.
WhyGEMgasket.jpg
I know this pic is saying the opposite of what I am but I am sharing my experience and what has always worked for me. And if you are using a LS Vtec kit no need to drill out the dowel holes in the head and head gasket. If you use a Vtec head gasket you will have a oil leak from the Vtec oil supply hole in the head gasket. I have seen Vtec head gaskets work and I have seen them leak as well, I have never seen a Ls head gasket leak on a LS Vtec.
 
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So ls crank ,ls head gasket ,and oem bearings will hold up to the 11.5 to 1 comp ,rpms and heat. I also need to no if I should I get a new oil pump cents I spun a bearing will the shards mess it up I will clean it as good as I can but I would hate to put it back together and have to pull it right back down
 
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