ls vtec

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pugarex

Senior Member
what head would be better on a ls vtec set up keeping the stock diameter but more compression like some p30 pistons or aftermarket slugs.what head would be better (more power)

i havent got the head yet im looking to buy one and i say b16 1st gen
would 2nd gen be better? my motor is obd1 b18a1
or gsr head square port?
i could get these for about the same price. gsr a lil bit more though but still good price.
im going n/a no forced induction something that will run on pump gas
 
later gen b16a will flow best, b18c will give you a higher compression ratio. obd0 b16a will give you neither. use what you can get cheaper of the 2.
 
The GSR head will give you about .2:1 more compression. It's really a wash when it comes down to it- just get what you can, and if you can snag a GSR head get it.
 
anything obd1 or 2 will work just fine, and compression wise, great for daily driving or those long trips, OR when you roll up to race :blink:
 
pugarex @ Feb 2 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
what head would be better on a ls vtec set up keeping the stock diameter but more compression like some p30 pistons or aftermarket slugs.what head would be better (more power)

i havent got the head yet im looking to buy one and i say b16 1st gen
would 2nd gen be better? my motor is obd1 b18a1
or gsr head square port?
i could get these for about the same price. gsr a lil bit more though but still good price.
im going n/a no forced induction something that will run on pump gas
Click to expand...

GSR hands down will give you the most potential to make power especially for NA apps, as it has a much better quality casting, and much better port designs. as for the b16a/type R heads, they are all the same, and are still good heads. Between the first and second generation b16 heads, I don't understand how one would be better than the other, as they did nothing to it. They are both from the same pr3 mold. Which ever you decide to get, just clean up the port imperfections with a bit of dremel action or some medium grit sand paper, get a good multi angle valve job, hot tank, and you are good to go.

And good luck in Cali, I hope your car is either a)registered out of state or b)you know a really 'good' smog tech, because any kind of head swap is illegal, but you probably already know that. Good luck with the build bro. BTW, I've got a first gen b16a head if you need one.
 
what exactly does a 3 angle valve job do? i've never read up too much about it, and when i search the most that comes up is "get a 3 angle valve job" or "its got a 3 angle valve job"

so i guess all i want to know is,
what does it do?
what are the advantages?
what is a rough estimate for cost?

thanks!

and do you need any aftermarket parts? or will the stock valves be fine?
 
It's just how it sounds. As the valve opens, air flows through the valves, and has to make the turn into the cylinders. The 3 angles of the valve seat allow the flow to turn more smoothly, as sharp corners tend to disrupt flow, creating vortices. Not the greatest thing for high flow apps. My particular vj has a 4 angle grind on the intake side, and radiused exhaust side. the radius on the exhaust side helps the exhaust gases flow more smoothly out of the cylinders during the exhaust stroke. It's simply not necessary on the intake side, since the seat is on the backside of the incoming flow on the intake stroke. Hope that helps

Cliffs notes: Multiangle valve jobs help the head flow better, and are a major contributor to flow potential of a high flow head, more than most suspect.

Talk to robert martin about a good valve job. Follow the link in my sig to rocket motorsports.
Stock parts will be just fine, but if you are revving the motor or installing aftermarket cams, you'll want to upgrade the springs and retainers. Stock valves are fine unless you feel like spending the dough on some ferrea's or better aftermarket stainless valves.
 
going with the gsr head and some forged slugs and rods keeping crank stock. i wandt about 220 hp and what ever torque i get cause its going to be a shit load.
 
pugarex @ Feb 6 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
going with the gsr head and some forged slugs and rods keeping crank stock.
Click to expand...

Good choice. CP makes awesome pistons, Just remember to have the block honed to the piston spec when you get them.

pugarex @ Feb 6 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
i wandt about 220 hp and what ever torque i get cause its going to be a shit load.
Click to expand...

220 isn't a bad goal. I wouldn't say that it is a 'shitload' of torque, unless you drive weedwackers for a living.
 
this is going to be my first engine that i build so i dont know crap about engine building i know some of the basics and i think that i could get oway with it. i did my own swap i think that i could handle it.


its more tq than my d series.
 
how much power can the stock crank take? i know the rods are something i definitely need to change same with the pistons. how do i get the block honed to the piston spec? (never done this before)

im getting the samw size piston as the reg ls piston just beffier same with the rods will this keep me araund 10:1 compression or around 11:1 using a gsr head?
 
the LS rods will be fine, you just need to get ARP rod bolts, and your rods resized after that.

use b16a2 pistons, they will fit right into place of the LS pistons, and get new rings (probably some that can take a little more pressure) wrist pins, and new bearings.

i believe all b16/18 pistons can swap right in... someone correct me if im wrong?
if that is true, then b16 or GSR pistons will be good.
 
i need something a lil bit stronger i might decide to boost later on and i need some thing strong. thats why im going with aftermarket rods and slugs.
 
pugarex @ Feb 7 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
i need something a lil bit stronger i might decide to boost later on and i need some thing strong. thats why im going with aftermarket rods and slugs.
Click to expand...

Follow the link in my sig to rocket motorsports. He is very knowedgeable, and gave me a great deal on a piston set. He sells high end cunningham rods, but can easily order eagles, or whatever, I am sure.

As for getting the block honed... don't do it yourself. Take your pistons, rods and block to a good machine shop when you get all of it, and have them balance the rods and pistons, polish the crank, and hone the cylinders to the piston specs. That way you know for sure that you will have the right clearance. Just make sure to go to a good shop that works on hondas, NOT domestic retards.

Your crank will be fine for probably your wildest goals.
 
the only issue that i have is finding a local shop that has done thing like this before. anyone know anithing in bakersfield cali.
 
i made some calls and i found a shop in bakersfield cali. that specializes in strictly hondas its called jmk autoworks and they want 6 bills for a gsr head compleate intake header cams valve cover and all internals he told me that some dont come with the dizzy but he will try to get me one that has one.


do you guys think this is a good price
gsr head complete 600.00
b16 head complete 450.00
 
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