Major Oil Leak On Crvtec Rebuild

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thetoymaker

Senior Member
Ok I have a cascading waterfall of oil down the back of my block from the head gasket.
It didn't do this until about 1 hour into actually running with the new GSR head.
Head bolts torqued to 80 ft-lbs, is this too much?
If so what is the proper specs for this swap?

I have heard that in some cases it is not enough.
I am running a full GSR top end, ECU, dist, intake, head.
Bottom: B20z2.

I do not have oil in the water, but I have this sheen of oil running down the back of the block.
Any advice would be helpful since this time I am doing everything myself.
It looks like either the gasket is not down tight enough, or it is too tight.

What could it be.

Oh, and BTW the engine purrs like a lion, but leaks oil everywhere.

:worthy: :worthy:
 
That is the only place I can think of that would leak that kind of oil. I have no idea, sorry.
 
Is there any oil on the head? Are you sure the head is bolted on right? My shitty D15B7 was leaking oil for about 5 minutes, similar to yours becuase I didn't put the rubber seal/valve cover on just perfect.
 
I didn't see any oil leaking above the head gasket line, at first it just seeps, then it flows after the engine gets good and warm.

No I didn't remove the brass rings, but they didn't even touch anything, they just kinda hang out the sides.
I looked up on B20vtec.com and they state that their rebuild is only torqued to 65 ft-lbs, but in the story build they state that it should be 80lbs....
I wish I could find a strait answer.
also, am I supposed to re tighten the headbolts after running it a while, I hear some say yes and others say no, it was leakng so I did but it didn't help.
It takes a good 8 hours to tear one of these down and put it all back together to a point where i can start it and it is very very hot here.
Oh well I'll give weightwatchers a good run for their money.

But back to the problem I'm having, It looks like it might be too tight. I did do it to 80lbs.
Oh BTW I am using the GSR water pump and it is really a pain to get the timing belt tight, is that normal? :(

And to top it all off I still have to fix the tranny., something whirring and hard to go into gear.....
I will say one thing about doing it yourself, it saves lots of money, but takes weeks.
 
i had to remove the brass rings on my head with a b18 block and b16 head.. they didn't look like they were hitting, but they were...

how about out of the oil pressure sender??
 
I did not have to remove the brass rings on my B18 with a B16 head. My head sat find on the block and is not leaking. Where on the head is the oil leak coming from?
 
Allright,
I tore it down again, and found out the machine shop that I paid a healthy sum to, decided it was best to tell me the Vtec oil channel was sealed properly and they used tape.
I come to find out that not only was LS/VTEC totally right about the location of the leak, but that the oil channel was not even tapped fully, and the job he did on the channel was shit, no tape, no sealant, no nothing.
So I'm out another $70 for a head gasket (steel) and i have to go up there and ask why he didn't do it right, but told me he did.
Ug.

So if you ever build one of these and you end up with oil cascading down the back of your block, hmmm it is the vtec oil channel you thought you plugged.

thanks guys.

Oh, BTW what is the proper torque spec for a B20Z2?
 
dont know how long it has been or how long it will be till you see this ......you said your tranny is hard to go in to gear and making a whirring noise this i ssome more bad news you tranny doesnt have tranny fluid in it and the reason i know this is mine made the same noise and did the same thing last month when i had to get a brand new one the guy i had do the clutch didnt put the axle hub in right to the tranny or somthing but any way it leak out the fluid and seezed up my gears which means welded them together so id take it to a shop before it does seez up if it hasnt yet becuz it will trust me..........
 
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