Mild lsvtec buildup: how to & pics

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Jixer615 said:
he said he torqued the rod bolts down three times, so now you have to unbolt them and torque them again. those bolts are taking alot of abuse.

when he removes the pistons from the cylinders, he prolly going to scratch the walls, damage the crank journals again, and screw up his wonderful ACL bearings.

what a waste of money!!!!!

oh and you don't need a "press" to push in the rear main seal, take a rubber mallet to it around the edges and it goes right it. just make sure you put it in the right way. better look at the manual before you install it.
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I noticed this earlier. The arrow faces that direction to make sure the oil hole in the rods match to the piston for lubrication purposes. I am in no way rushing this build. The only time I get to work on the engine is after 11pm.

Do you know why you torque the rod bolts down three times? To measure stretch. ARP recommends that you torque the bolts three times to make sure the rod bolt does not stretch too much. In the event of that happening, the rod bolt is considered defective. Now this does not happen very often, especially when using oem rods with oem spec. size rod bolts.

As for the rear main seal, I tried it with a rubber mallet and it would not go in. You need to make sure the housing is level (flat) and you have to put, say, a piece of wood or something equivalant to that ontop of the new seal for it to go in evenly without damaging it. A press isnt needed, but makes it a lot easier if done properly.

As for the ACL bearings, me taking the pistons/rods back out won't damage them at all. Think about the pressures on them when your engine is running. The cylinder walls will be fine. And as long as the rod bolt caps dont fall off like they did before (which they wont), no rod journal will be affected.
 
ls/vtechatch91 said:
ya it was looking good... god knows what would of happend if we didnt say anything....
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I realized this earlier when I was going over the clearances. I am going to have to pull the pistons/rods back out and put them in again. Did them late at night, should have had some coffee before hand. :)
 
Blanco said:
Yeah, it's not all that big a deal to take a piston out and spin it around. Shouldn't take much more than 15 minutes to do all four.

You want to talk about an arrow facing the wrong direction. I had one that was facing about 10:30 because either the machinist bent my rod or failed to tell me that the rod was bent. Either way, they fixed it for free. Thankfully I had another rod to use.
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Yes, I just got finished with them now. Took about 30 minutes to do all four, two out of the four, the rod caps were giving me some trouble coming off but they eventually budged. All the oil on my hands didnt really help the situation :). I even went out and got some coffee before I did them, lol.

That sucks about your rod, but wouldn't it be twisted, not bent if the arrow was facing that direction? Just a thought :)
 
Jixer615 said:
seems like your rushing this build, you should slow down and make sure your doing things right, a simple mistake like that is what could tear your build up so get the manual out, read it, read it again and do it right.
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This is not my first build. As for the service manuals, I have two manuals (b18a,b16a) near memorized. This was just a "duh" move on my own part.
 
I am wondering IF I can get away with using the oil pump from the b16a1 (first gen).... Considering this engine won't be revving past 8k or so.
 
about revving my motor that high. but yeah anyways you have a pretty kick ass motor. what car is going into?
 
yeah maybe no one would of said anything, big deal then his rods bearings wouldn't get enough oil and his engine would burn up.
 
Are you going to go through the wireing of the car also? what obd head are you using and what car is it going into. I have all the mechanical parts of a lsvtec build down but i lose it on the wireing.
 
Jixer615 said:
yeah maybe no one would of said anything, big deal then his rods bearings wouldn't get enough oil and his engine would burn up.
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Stop being a moron, please. The rod bearing will always get oil. There is an oil hole in the center of the bearing, which matches the hole on the rod. Engines do not burn up due to a dry bearing/s. And if the piston/rod assembly was in backwards, which in my case, the bearings and rod caps were on correct, the only thing I did different was installed them 180 degrees off. If a bearing runs dry, it will eventually score the journal and spin the bearing. Stop posting noob'ness in this thread. It is a build thread. Thanks, have a nice day! :)

EDIT: The rod, and the rod caps are both etched with a line to make sure the rod caps go back on correctly.
 
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ontheground said:
Are you going to go through the wireing of the car also? what obd head are you using and what car is it going into. I have all the mechanical parts of a lsvtec build down but i lose it on the wireing.
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It is going into a 94 civic hatch. It is currently wired for obd1, but the engine swap in it is a b16a1 with a cable transmission. The head from that swap will be going onto this block, as well as the transmission.

All the wiring is simple, because it will be just plug-n-play since im re-using the stock manifold that is in the car now.
I like to label harness' and clips to make sure when they engine goes back in everything gets connected properly.
 
I have A 91 integ that I want to do pretty much the exact same swap you are doing. As long as I stay obd o whith the head and the distributor it really dosent matter what obd the block is right.
 
in the long run it is worth changing to obd-1 more options for tunning wise... doesnt matter what head u use... its in the manifold.. i have a skunk2 intake manifold wich eliminates most of the vaccum hose crap.... block doesnt really matter anyways.. but the b18a1 blocks are 10lbs lighter from what ive heard...
 
but on the valves reliefs on the pistons... the exhaust side is bigger.... so what would of happend if u would of left it like that??? and didnt notice it?
 
Do the make adaptors so I can just plug an obd 1 ecu in. And ones for the motor side of the harness
 
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